10 APRIL 2004, Page 41

SIMON HOGGART

:st year's mini-bar offer from Stone, Vine & Sun was a great success, and resulted in lots of repeat orders. I'm sure this will do just as well, partly because the prices are so truly excellent, partly because there's a generous discount if you buy more than one case, and partly because these are perfect spring wines. They're all from • the south of France, and they bring the heady whiff of flower-girt hills and herbs and half-forgotten perfumes. Drinking these wines is almost like being there.

Take the gorgeous Chateau La Gravette 2003(1) from Minervois. The owners, the Orosquettes, bought a patch of land containing old Maccabeu vines. This is not usually a very flavoursome grape, but the intensity provided by low yields, backed up by other local varieties, gives this a real strength and power. Delicious.

For a quid more, the Coteaux du Languedoc from the Domaine du Meteore (a meteor fell on the land at some point) 200312) is superb value. This is made half from the Roussanne grape, half Marsanne, and — S,V&S say — as the vines have grown older the quality has steadily improved. Well, it's very good indeed now — rounded, fruity, rich, yet with a flinty undertone which makes it perfect for the year's first picnics.

The reds are very special. You will love the Mas des Brousses, Chasseur \ des Brousses 2003(s) (the hunter

" on the label is a small bee-eating bird), which has cherries, vanilla, even blueberries,

wrapped into a luscious, velvety richness. This wine has never been imported to the UK before, and I suspect that once we catch on they'll never stop shipping it.

Finally, the 2001 reserve wine from the Corbieres Domaine du Grand Arc (4) is tremendous. When we first opened the bottle it seemed a little dry and tight. After half an hour it turned into a huge, complex, smoky, herbal, minty wine made from Grenache. If it were a Rhone wine, you would pay far more money for such a treat.

You can buy each wine by the case, or the sampler containing three of each. Stone, Vine & Sun will generously knock off 15 per case if you buy two or more, and delivery is free. There is a slight problem if you live in the Highlands and Islands, since it can cost them £20 a case to deliver there. Phone the company and they'll work out a deal for you.

By the way, Lay and Wheeler are celebrating their 150th anniversary with a superb four-day trip to Burgundy, including dinner at the celebrated Clos de Vougeot. I'll be MC-ing that bash. If you fancy going,

ring Karen on 01206 244145. -24