SPECTATOR'S LIBRARY.

TRAVELS.

Hand-Book fol. India and Egypt; comprising the Narrative of a Journey from Cal- cutta to England. by way of the River Ganges, the North-west of Hindustan, the Himalayas. the Rivers Sutledge and Indus, Bombay and Egypt; and Hints for the Guidance of Passengers by that and other Overland Routes to the three Presi- deucies of India Allen and Co. Hurroar,

History of Holland, from the beginning of the Tenth to the end of the Eighteenth

Century. By C. M. Davies. Vol. I Parker.

Joseph Rushbrook ; or the Poacher. By the Author of •• Peter Simple." In three

volumes Longman and Co.

PUBLIC INSTRUCTION,

Wilhem's Method of Teaching Singing, adapted to English use, under the superin- tendence of the Committee of Council on Education. By John HUHak. HERALDRY.

Debrett's Peerage of Great Britain and Ireland. Revised, corrected, and continued, by George William Collett, Esq Pickering.

THE HAND-BOOB OF INDIA AND EGYPT. THE HAND-BOOB OF INDIA AND EGYPT.

Tins publication is by no means devoid of literary merit ; but its striking character arises from the promptness with which a won- derful change in the means and modes of Oriental travelling have been taken up, the very complete and business-like way in which the task has been accomplished, and the floating knowledge of life and foreign affairs that has been infused into the book. As mat- ters now stand, a Sybarite can transport himself from England to Alexandria, faring as sumptuously and with all the appliances of easy indulgence within his reach as if he remained in a London club-house. The land journey across the Isthmus of Suez, and the subsequent steam-trip to Bombay, do not offer such splendid accom- modations, the Company's smaller vessels being often over-crowded, and coal-dust flying about ; but there is neither fatigue nor privation in reaching India, and Bombay steam-ships are building to vie with the luxury of those in the Mediterranean. By attending to times at Bombay, the traveller may steam to the mouth of the Indus, and, transferring himself into another vessel, ascend that river further or nearer according to the season of the year. Thus far the Oriental traveller has been called upon for no more exertion than travelling in England, and not for so much if he wandered from the main roads where public vehicles do not run. When he lands on the banks of the Indus or Sutledge, he may still be as lazy as he pleases : the Residents, notice being given, provide him bearers and attend- ants : the toil in reaching the Himalaya Cheltenham will arise from the novelty of the palanqueen, or the jampaun—the skeleton of the sedan, or, in plain English, an arm-chair, which is the only vehicle used in the ascent of those stupendous mountains. At Simla, the tourist can vary his pleasures in every way. The vicinity offers every variety of prospect, from the secluded valley and waterfall to the stupendous mountain scenery or the extensive pros- pect over the plains of Hindostan. Does the sojourner love parade— there are a fashionable ride, and a fashionable lounge, combining a it masonic lodge, assembly-room, and amateur theatre, subscription reading and billiard rooms, with a circulating library and an ordi- nary" : is he fond of the open air—numerous pic-nic parties take place in the Himalaya, with no lack of scenery or seclusion : is he cold—he may rapidly descend to the plains, and luxuriate in the heat of India: is he curious, as who would not be—he must take a jaunt of a few days to the Naykanda Pass, and thence ascend the mountain Huttoo, where be witnesses "perhaps the most magni- ficent sight the world can produce, a view from an elevation of nearly eleven thousand feet, of mountains varying in height from sixteen to twenty-six thousand, all covered with perpetual snow, and extending in the form of a semicircle before him, not less than one hundred and eighty degrees, or one-half the horizon" : is the tour- ist ambitious—he may still proceed, till he touches the eternal snows of the Himalaya ; but the author of this publication doubts if the labour is repaid by the exploit. Having exhausted Simla, the traveller may descend as he came, and reach Allahabad by Delhi and Agra ; but lingering long over the eighth wonder of the world at the latter place, the Taj Mahal—the mausoleum erected to the memory of MOOETAZ MAHAL by her hus- band the Emperor Shah JEHAN. At Allahabad the tourist quits his palanqueen, to embark on the Ganges in a Calcutta steamer ; and reaches the city of the palaces, having suffered less privation, been called upon for the display of less resources, and undergone less fatigue (the novelty of the palanqueen excepted) than would be experienced in travelling through a remote district of France or Ireland. From England to India a person might " sleep all the way," except the Egyptian land journey. The expense of the author's tour from Calcutta to England was 3201.; but he seems to have lived with his friends at Simla, and with the Residents on the road ; and he left Bombay almost as soon as he arrived.

From Calcutta there are other land-routes for returning to Bom- bay; but it is expected that steamers will shortly run between all the three Presidencies. The traveller may also vary his return home by landing at Cossier in the Red Sea ; traversing the Desert on camels ; examining Thebes, &c.; and descending the Nile. But this is neither so expeditious nor so luxurious a mode of reaching England from India.

A great feature in this book is its reality. The author has performed the tour respecting which he directs his reader ; and, Instead of making the journey to write the book, he has written the book because he has made the journey. The descriptions are therefore of such things as left a sufficient impression to induce him to note them at the time, or formed for themselves a perma- nent. place in his memory ; and if his catalogue of matters not striking in themselves has somewhat of a dry matter-of-fact cha- racter, it is better than a laboured attempt by inflated words to im- part interest to that which intrinsically possesses none. It is not, however; as a book of travels, but as a guide-book, that the volume challenges attention ; and in this way it is very complete. The particulars given by the author, in all that relates to his own route, seem full, sensible, and specific ; and in an appendix he furnishes much various information of different kinds : elaborate tables of Indian routes and distances, founded on official or military authorities ; a judicious selection, from other travellers, of particulars touching upon the journey through the Desert and the descent of the Nile ; and a good collection respecting the steamers and lazarettos of the Mediterranean. He also offers some useful hints to persons proceeding to India by a voyage round the Cape ; taking, for example, a slopseller's list, and pointing out in detail useless things included and necessary things omitted. In his guide to Calcutta and Madras, he contrives, by quoting from social rules and regulations, and local publications, in addition to his own experience, to convey, perhaps, a better notion of the daily life of those Presidencies than may be found in more elaborate books.

Although steam is working such wonders, the Anglo-Indian public would appear to be apathetic upon the subject ; what has yet been done having been done by the Company, or by capitalists at home ; and even now, we believe, a company is established in England to effect a more complete and rapid steam-navigation of the rivers of India. " This apathy is indeed extraordinary," as the author says, considering the demand for accommodation and the competition to obtain it.

STEAM-FREIGHT ON THE GANGES.

On an average one is despatched every fortnight, announcements being made a week or ten days previously of the day fixed for the departure. Parties desirous to send packages by them are at the same time requested to register the extent of room they need, the established rate of freight being one rupee and eight annas (three shillings) per cubic foot. On the ap- pointed day, in the event of its being found that the demand exceeds the means of supply, (and it is extremely rare when it does not so,) the whole of the ton- nage to be disposed of to the public is put up for sale to the highest bidders, in quantities of ten, twenty, and fifty feet, and it frequently realizes six rupees per foot, seldom less than three ; parties thus paying from six to twelve times more for the conveyance of goods a few hundred miles, than the ordinary cost in a voyage from London to Calcutta, a distance of fifteen thousand.

Among the various hints for the land-journey, here is one.

LOOK TO YOUR PALANQUEEN.

To the old stager such a caution is not requisite ; but it may be heedful to recommend the tyro invariably, before commencing a fresh journey, to have the contents of his palanqueen removed and replaced. Those vehicles being too balky to be brought within the house, their stations are generally in the open verandahs; and snakes not unfrequently creep into them for warmth: from a neglect of this precaution, more than one traveller has been awakened shortly after placing his head on his pillow, by the hissing of a deadly cobra di capetla partly beneath it.

Roads, we believe, there are none in India—or indeed in Asia, out of China—with the exception of a new military road from Allahabad to Futtehpore, a distance of eighty miles. This seems an improvement, beyond the natives ; and the effects of the tremen- dous torrents of the rainy season offer, perhaps, a reason why road- making has hitherto been neglected.

The ROAD OF INDIA.

The composition of this road is principally a peculiar limestone, called conker; which, after being laid down for some time, well cemented by the application of water, and beaten together, becomes a solid mass of extreme strength : it is the only soil against which the soles of a native's feet are not proof . who, to avoid this newly-made road, will willingly wade through water or toil through mud and jungle, remarking that it is only fit for horses to move on, who are shod with iron. Convicts are for the most part employed in making it, some- times in gangs of above a hundred ; who work with all the regularity of a regi- ment of soldiers manceuvering, letting their battering-rams fall at the same mo- ment, with a noise like thunder. European and native superintendents are placed over them. The road is one unvaried flat, and generally in a direct line, miles and miles before one being always in view. The cultivation of maize is universal. In the rainy season the sides of the road are mostly under water; and it is melancholy to witness the devastations caused by the torrents which every now and then occur. Chasms of fifty or a hundred feet in length, forming deep ravines, occasionally stop the passenger, and compel 'aim to make a con- siderable detour before attaining a perfect portion of the main road ; whilst of the many bridges in its line, some are found cast down as if by the shock of an earthquake, and masses of brickwork of apparently imperishable strength equally levelled by the powers of the flood. These damages are too often allowed to remain a long time unrepaired ; which is scarcely pardonable, consi- dering the importance of a perfect communication and the cheapness of labour in India. Massive milestones from the Ghunar quarries are in use along the road; and it strikes an Englishman as unusual to see 600, 700, and 800 marked on them, in reference to the distance from Calcutta.

The description of Simla, the pleasure-place in the Himalaya, is curious and suggestive ; but produces its effects rather by a suc- cession of minute particulars than any striking pictures : so we will accompany our author in his descent of the Sutledge and Indus, which he performed in a native boat, gleaning a few passages as we go along.

JUNGLE GRASS.

The greater part is covered with jungle or reed-grass ; and it will perhaps be scarcely credited that many of the blades reach to the enormous height of twenty-five feet. Unless the author had himself witnessed this fact, he would have hesitated to believe such a statement ; but he can vouch for its truth, as he happened to be engaged tiger-shooting, and while standing in the howdah of a very tall elephant, the grass in question towered many feet above his head. Of a party consisting of thirty elephants, four times that number of attendants, and several horses, all formed in close line, the whole were occasionally com- pletely concealed from the view of each other by this overwhelming jungle.

ELEPHANTS IN A QUICKSAND.

On the banks of the river there are many quicksands; and during Ibis expe- dition a somewhat distressing scene happened. An elephant incautiously came within the vortex of one: first one foot sank, then another; and in endeavouring to extricate himself, matters became worse; no portion of either of his legs was at last visible, and the bystanders had given up the poor animal as lost: being, fortunately, unusually powerful, he three several times, with what appeared to all supernatural strengt drew a foot from the closely-clinging earth, placing it where, by sounding with his trunk, he found most solidity : not until the third time did the ground bear his pressure, when he gradually released himself. During the whole period of his troubles his cries were exceedingly dolorous, and might hare been heard a couple of miles: his grunt, when they were at an end, was equally indicative of satisfaction. The internal application of a bottle of strong spirits soon dissipated his trembling and restored his equanimity. Many unfortunate elephants are lost in these treacherous sands, when large quan- tities of grass or branches of trees are not at hand to form an available support for them. After a certain time the poor beast becomes powerless; and the owner can then only look with sorrow at the gradual disappearance of his noble animal, and lament the pecuniary loss he thereby suffers, for all human aid is futile. They have been known to be twelve hours before entirely sinking.

Here is an example of the workings of war.

PRESENT SCARCITY OF CAMELS.

While on this subject, it may not be altogether out of place to allude to the present scarcity in this part of India of the camel; which is in its way as useful and valuable an animal as the other. In consequence of this the regiments moving upwards, and the commissariat generally, are put to serious inconve- nience by the limited means of conveyance available. The English reader will hardly be surprised at this scarcity, when he hears that, from the commence- ment of the Afghanistan campaign in 1838, to the present time, (October 1840,) the number killed, stolen, and strayed, is somewhat beyond fifty-five thousand. The average value of each may be taken at eighty rupees;. which makes this single item of war expenditure above forty-five laca of rupees, or four hundred and fifty thousand pounds.

THE NE PLUS ULTRA STEAMER.

The port of Bonlac is two miles distant from Cairo; from which, at seven o'clock on the morning of the 22d December, the little steamer Jack-o-Lantern started with nine of the Indian passengers en route to Alexandria. This ',me- ld is perhaps the smallest passenger-boat in the world propelled by steam: she has the credit of having six-horse power, but a wag, who recently alluded to her in a letter to a friend in India, described her as of three Cairo donkey power; as much perhaps with reference to the vigour of the animal in ques- tion, as to the insignificant dimensions of the boat. Her accommodations comprise a lady's cabin, about four feet by five, and a general one, ten feet by five: in the latter, no less than eight individuals passed the night, any other than a sitting posture being of course out of the question. She draws but a few inches water, and the minuteness of her engines, boilers, &c. renders her quite a curiosity. To trim her, it is only necessary for one or two individuals to move about.

STEAM-ACCOMMODATION TO ALEXANDRIA.

The extreme length of the Great Liverpool is 235 feet. On the spar or upper-deck, there is an uninterrupted walk of almost that entire length. Her crew consists of seventy individuals, eighteen of whom are able seamen. Be- low is the main-deck ; the after part of which is devoted to the saloon, which is very elegantly fitted up, and is capable of dining sixty people. The cabins open into it, are seventeen in number, making up in all forty-four berths, and are unusually commodious and airy. Among them is a ladies' cabin, making up eight beds, and a family one for four persons. In the fore part of the ves- sel, below the main-deck, is a spacious lounging-room, and a separate saloon for second-class passengers ; in it are thirteen more cabins besides one devoted to ladies, making up sixty-four more bertha, or beds in all for one hundred and eight persons, without reference to above a dozen sofas in the saloon. On the main-deck are cabins for the commander, officers, engineers, boatswain, seamen, firemen, steward, cook, baker, &c., even to the poultry, cow, and sheep, which are also accommodated in this way. The accommodations of the Oriental are more extensive than those of the Great Liverpool, and the vessel is altogether more elegantly fitted up ; having been built expressly for the Peninsular Company, which the Great Liverpool was not.