10 NOVEMBER 1984, Page 22

Anderson: concern grows

Sir:, I'm very worried about Digby Ander- son. It's late October, and us chaps bold enough to face the extra-large north are thinking of venison with rowanberry sauce, or stewed in stout, and served on a bed of red cabbage with caraway. Or again, the frosts now flavour our parsnips, which well accompany the first pheasant (both roast). And the season of wood-hedgehogs is with us, moutons des bois for sufferers from girlish francophilia: why crave marine ones? And Digby? He's writing mimsily about mashed potato, a dish even the French seldom serve in isolation. And reconl- mending it be used to dilute the character of celeriac, which is better complemented with a Jerusalem artichoke (topinambour) puree. Hormone supplements seem essential. Please arrange to spike his butter with testosterone.

P. G. Urben

22 Regent Road, Newcastle on Tyne