A NEW ROUTE TO THE RIVIERA.
[To THE EDITOR OF THE "SPECTATOR."] Sin,—If any intending traveller to the Riviera wants an entirely new and entirely pleasurable sensation let him try the route from Paris yid. Clermont-Ferrand to Nimes, which I have just followed for the first time after about forty years' experience of the Lyons route. The pass by which the line from Clermont crosses the Cevennes Is perfectly enchanting from Langeac to Alais, occupying about five hours. The scenery does not offer any of the grandest features of the Swiss passes, for there are no glaciers, peaks of eternal snow, nor fearful precipices, notwithstanding that the railway pass is over 3,000 ft. high. But the grouping of rocks, pines, and beech, broken at frequent intervals by green lawns, stretching from the foaming Allier—how different from its tame look at Vichy !—up in elongated triangles to the base of giddy heights, is quite unmatchable elsewhere. Hardly less green than the lawns is the transparent part of the stream of the Allier where its waters are not lashed into foam. At the foot of some of the triangular lawns, where they broaden down to the water's edge, are miniature sandy beaches, exactly like the seashore. At Langogne, after a steep climb of one and a half hours from Langeac, occurs a wide landing, as at Ander. matt, half way up the St. Gothard. Here the train rests for half an hour to take breath before it mounts to the second floor, and at Langogne an excellent repast is provided for the hungry traveller. For if he has only taken coffee at 6 a.m. before the early start from Clermont he is bound to be hungry in that splendid mountain air. And that reminds me to warn any of your readers who may be tempted to try the Cevennes passage to the South, that it is only available for travellers who can travel leisurely and do not object to early rising. You must sleep at Clermont-Ferrand, where an 8.55 a.m. train from Gare de Lyon at Paris lands you at 6 p.m., via Nevers. So comfortable did I find the Hotel de la Poste, so admirable the cooking, and so moderate the bill, that I stayed four days. For a student of Roman history and antiquities. Clermont is a mine, little explored by our countrymen. Starting at 6.55 a.m., the day-train for Nimes, passing within sight of Gergovia on its lofty plateau, brings the traveller to Langeac at 11 a.m.; to Alais, where I am writing, at 4 p.m., and to Nimes at 6 p.m. The new sensa- tion consists in approaching the Midi" over an unmistakeable mountain range (where Caesar found 6 ft. of snow when he crossed in the mid-winter of B.C. 52) instead of the common- place Rhone Valley approach to Marseilles. I had brilliant sunshine all the way, and it was quite warm.—I am, Sir, &c., W. H. BULLOCK-HALL.
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