11 MAY 1861, Page 24

number of places visited, and they stayed long enough at

each to have had more sport among the reindeer, and we should have been anableiliem to carry away a rather less hurried notion of things and gladdened by many more pages of a very agreeable book. From people Than is usually the case with the regular English tourist. But Bergen, where the English steamer landed him, he again embarked they do not seem to have gone a step beyond the most thoroughly for the Hardanger .Ford, and found hospitable quarters at Sandvig, beaten track, either in Swiss scenery or Italian towns, and their tour on its shores, in the house of an engineer officer. Here his sporting was simply that which hundreds of travellers make every year, but adventures began, for the neighbouring mountains were infested by a occupying apparently a longer space of time than most tourists are bear which in eight days had killed no fewer than twenty cows, and able to devote to it. The reader is warned "not to expect a recital an order had gone round for a general hunt, in which every man who of stirring adventures in the High Alps," which were beyond the was able was expected to join. The affair appears to have been ill. strength of the writers, and as we have had almost a superfluity of managed, for Bruin got off unseen, leaving three more carcases of such adventures just now, we are not sorry that such was the case. cows behind him. Apparently they had been hugged to death, for Bat there are many parts of Switzerland which do not fall into the scarcely a mark of teeth or claws was visible, and probably they were common route, of which we should have been glad to hear something, destined for the bear's autumnal stock of food. After this excursion and there are many more parts of Italy which offer, both in respect Mr. Wyndham ascended the fjord, and took the road northward to of their inhabitants, their scenery, and above all, their artistic Sogne Fjord, which runs one hundred and twenty miles inland, and

, treasures, opportunities to a tourist with a literary turn, of which we is the largest in Norway. Contrary to the received opinion, he thinks are surprised. to see so few people avail themselves. There is nothing it superior in scenery to the Hardanger Fjord ; but none of the fjords in the way of information, of antiquities, or criticism, or practical of Norway came up to his expectations, for though exceedingly bean. hints, in these volumes, which may not be found in Murray, and in tiful, they appeared to him rather monotonous. Their scenery is more than one case, quotations appear in their pages which are to be generally deficient in background, for their lofty perpendicular cliffs found in the guide-book. The reflections, when at their best, are shut out all view of the mountains beyond ; but the highland lakes such as would occur to most well-disposed and well-educated women, are free from this defect, and there it is that the picturesque charae. and are sometimes rather below that level, as where the authoress, teristics of Norway may be seen in their fullest perfection. on seeing some forests near Berne being felled for railway purposes, The waters of the Sogne flow from a group of mountains lying "could not but regret that trees so beautifully grown, of such elegant north-east of the fjord, and almost wholly impracticable for wheel- proportions, should be doomed to lie hidden under the iron rails, and carriages. Among them are at least two summits rising higher than be crushed by the weight of the locomotive." The writers appear to Snehreten, which used to be reputed the loftiest peak in Norway; see an intensely foreign air in the simplest things, and on the terrace but that rank is now claimed for the Galhopiggene, which has an at Berne, where there were refreshment shops, were "much amused elevation of eight thousand five hundred and forty English feet. So in watching three little boys marching in, deliberately taking chairs, little is this rugged but magnificent district known to tourists, that at and calling for ices and glasses of water, an invariable accompani- Riidseim, a station near its verge for the hire of baggage ponies, Mr. went to this luxury abroad." This is an amusement which may be Wyndham wrote his name in the travellers' book on the very same had without going so far as Berne, and the "invariable accompani- page as Captain Biddulph, ILA., who had passed that way just ten went" is not unknown in Pall Mall and Regent-street. The Misses years before. In this region Mr. Wyndham employed himself from Catlow are authors on some works of popular science, and the char the middle of August to near the end of September, shooting willow ters on Alpine Botany and Zoology—though the best parts of t euse near the limit of the birch-trees and among the shrub-bearing are from the work of Tschudi, in the "Travellers' Library,"— rights above them, ptarmigan in the higher parts where all growth are written with fulness. There is, however, very little evidence of of shrubs ceases, and stalking reindeer on the same naked fjelds. If historical knowledge or general reading : among the celebrated men his bag was not always as heavy as he could wish, not the less did he who have lived at Lausanne, Gibbon is omitted, and the writers talk rejoice in his gun, and deem it the best accompaniment for a moun- of "a poem" of Lord Byron's, beginning " Clarens, sweet Clarens, tam tourist, as leading him to the enjoyment of superb scenery birth-place of deep love," which looks as if the knowledge of the amongst untraversed and unexplored regions, and throwing him into quotation was not derived from " Childe Harold" at first hand. The close contact with the peasantry river-side, the country ; whereas " the ri Imes, " Mont Blanc is the monarch of mountains," are also at- angler, detained in the valley by the ver-side, loses that ever-changing tributed to Byron, but we fancy this also is a mistake. Of the twenty variety of scene which in a mount4a country is so enchanting.' illustrations, some are so much inferior to the others that we should He describes the willow grouse as a most beautiful bird, of about imagine them to be by a different hand. The two in colours, which the same size as the red grouse of Scotland, and possibly identical form the frontispieces, may have been well drawn, but if so, have with it in species, for the point seems still scarcely decided. At all met with very ill treatment from the lithographer. The best are events it affords very good sport, and he thinks it might be worth those of Chilton and the Rhone valley, of the bridge at Narni, and of while to try it in those parts of Scotland where the red .grouse have the Jungfrau; but many of the others are commendable for the un- suffered from the disease. The fjeld, as we have said, is the haunt exaggerated impression they convey.- The views of buildings in of the ptarmigan and the reindeer, and this word is explained by our Venice and Florence are so well known bb photographs and draw- author as not having the meaning commonly supposed to belong to

ings that it was hardly worth while to insert them. it of plateau, or "table-topped mountain," nor is it significant of one

What merit the book has is in its general spirit, and in the goodness of the peculiarities of the mountains of Norway. It is applied to of a few of the descriptions. We have said that works of this kind every part of a mountainous region, whether peak or table-land, are not very attractive to those who know the route from experience which, from its elevation, is entirely devoid of shrubs or ..bushes of or from other sources, but to those who do not the volumes may be any sort. The words fell and tarn, in Westmoreland and Cumberland, entertaining enough. They make no pretension, except that of con- are evidently the same as the fjeld and the Ora or yarn arn of the Sean- veying the impression felt by the writers of the scenes they passed dinavians.

through, and they have certainly succeeded in transferring to their Apropos of this lesson in philology we quote a little incident of pages much of the genuine feeling of their own enjoyment. The our author's sojourn at a mountain sceter, or dairy. "Daring the first continental tour has a feeling about it which never comes a evening," he says, " the workmen amused themselves with cutting second time, and any one who can reproduce this, so as to recal it out little articles of wood—an example which I also followed, and, to those who have travelled, or inspire it in those who have not, can in due time produced a small spoon to do duty as egg and tea spoon, exercise a fascination in which books intrinsically more valuable are which I afterwards found very useful." It is pleasant to come upon

often deficient. Freshness is not so common a quality in books that an English gentleman of the nineteenth century in the act of thus we ought to pass it over, and freshness this book certainly possesses. unconsciously illustrating the etymology of the word spoon, among We have said that there is some power of description, and in proof of the direct representatives of the race by whom that name was first

(not Staubach), given to the thing. The old Scandinavian word spann signifies, and to that of Schaffhausen. These are not specimens of what is primarily, a chip, and its secondary meaning is spoon, just as the usually called "word-painting," which is a thing rather over done by Latin word cochlear denotes the use of a shell to convey potage to Mr. Ruskiu's numerous imitators, but they are simply careful and the mouth.

kind, he says, will lead the hunter up to the deer, and will also follow

• was Life vs tsc lryaa, of Norway. By Francis M. Wyndham. Longman and co. hold with food to last them through the winter months, and that point being secured, the inmates have no further motive for the pursuit of game. When Mr. Wyndham landed at Bergen, the custom-house officers "seemed to be perfect strangers to shooting apparatus, for they first carefully handled and then smelled the gun- weddings and percussion-caps," taking pains to satisfy themselves that none of these things could be included under the category of articles of food. The peasants are their own gunmakers, and their rifles and the appurtenances thereto are clumsy and antiquated, though the weapons often shoot well at short ranges. They never shoot at birds on the wing, and probably never heard of such a thing being done until our countrymen went amongst them. Here is a specimen of the style in which his Norwegian friend, Peter, used to proclaim his accomplishments : " After informing the people what my name was and to what country I belonged, Peter would thus address the wondering audience: The Englishman can talk a little Norse, and be can cook meat, potatoes, and coffee'—' Ja so !, (indeed 1) ejaculated the bystanders= he cuts out wooden spoons with his knife —increased wonder—' and he shoots with a shot gun and rifle also.' But what,' they would ask, ' is the dog used for?" The dog is a Fugl-hued (bird_ d and when it finds the game it stands quite still ; then the Englishman walks up. to it, the grouse get up, and he shoots them when flying.' This last piece of information was invariably too mach for the audience, who would now Bann into loud exclamations: 'Ja so ! ja so! ban skyd ryper fiegen,P (He shoots grouse flying l)—'ja so ! ja so P—gradually dying away like distant music. And on Peter reassuring them that such was indeed the case, they would again go off in ejaculations, and mutter 'Han skyd ryper fiegen P (he shoots grouse flying!) for the next five minutes to come."

The rivers of Norway are well known to English anglers, but the sound of an English gun has seldom been heard on its fjelds ; yet the only Norwegian game preserved by law is the fish, whilst fur and feather are free to all comers. One effect of this gracefully written and manly book will probably be to induce many of our countrymen to forego a visit for one season, at least, to the Scottish moors and braes, and try their luck in the freer and less costly sporting-grounds of Norway. They will be sure of a kindly reception among the brave honest mountain folk, but if they follow Mr. Wyndham's example,they must make up their minds to encounter unusually hard work, to sleep on hard beds, and content themselves with coarse and precarious fare, in a region where it may be necessary to send a mes- senger on foot seventy miles, out and in, to procure such needful supplies as bread, coffee, sugar, and candles.