11 SEPTEMBER 1830, Page 16


MRS. ELWOOD'S TRAVELS.* it is elegant, lively, sensible, and in proper places trifling : this is of course the • of.41 female_ . If a lady's writings are ' nished at my preferring our European style. On the walls was a sentence here and there, finds a grain of corn, and in the midst of scratch- of the Koran framed and glazed, and in a recess was an illuminated ing, chuckling, and sidelincr, he offers his sultana the prize. In Koran, which they showed me. An interesting-looking young woman, the breeched and unfeatherebd creature, the grain of corn is a heart, seated in a low chair, was employed in making silver lace, the process of a fortune, or a name. which she explained to me, as also its use to trim vests and turbans. My Now Mrs. ELwoon's book is of the proper strength ; and ex- costume underwent the same minute investigation as on the yesterday, and as at this time I had on no cap, they were much struck with the ce.pting where she praises her lord, the invaluable C—, otherwise manner in which my hair was dressed, and my shoes and stockings created Lieutenant-Colonel ELWOOD, is a very agreeable and pleasant universal astonishment. Refreshments were brought, but every thing work. She is lively in her descriptions of scenery, manners, and was carefully tasted before it was offered to me,—1 suppose to show no character ; and appears to be a very good traveller,—that is, she treachery was intended,—and I was again interrogated as to my orna- Llways kept her eyes open when there was any thing to see, ments, children, &c. They told me all their names, and endeavoured, but in vain, to accomplish mine. and was never so very much afraid as not to be able to take " Suddenly there was a shriek of joy, laughing and clapping of hands. notes. Her acquisitions are also respectable. She is educated They drew me quickly to the window, from whence I saw C— walking not amiss (the fact is, our young women are better educated than in the streets, with one of his servants holding an umbrella over his head, our young men), and has picked up a pretty stock of Oriental lite- surrounded by an immense concourse of people ; and very foreign he cer- rature from her worthy husband C—. Indian mythology is tainly did look in the streets of Hodeida, with his English dress and hat. The delight of my fair, or rather of my dusky friends, was beyond descrip- viewed with a female eye—that is, an eye educated to detect the tion ; but it was redoubled, when they found it was my Cowasjee. The beauty of form ; and her reports of Indian scenery, habits, and pre- master of the house then came in : he treated me with the greatest defe- fudices, are just what an Englishman at home would be glad that - rence and respect, and, bringing me a little baby with gold rings in its his daughter could and did write him from that far and distant and nose and ears, with all a father's pride he informed me it was his, and that very strange land. Zaccara was its mother. The Travels are couched in the form of letters from Mrs. EL- " He also asked me about my children and my ornaments, the two things always apparently foremost in an Oriental imagination. My wed- WOOD to her sister Mrs. ELPHINSTONE, and are dedicated to her ding-ring catching the eyes of the women, I made them partly understand father, Mr. CIIRTEIS, the member for Sussex. The author spares its signification, but they evidently seemed to consider it as a charm. Us no part of her journey overland, but sets out even from Wind- " Zaccara then taking my hand with a very caressing air, invited me to mill Hill in Sussex, the abode of her father. From thence we are accompany her, and she showed me all over the house. It was completely taken to Dover, to Calais, to Paris, and to Naples ; thence to 'upstairs, downstairs, in my lady's chamber,' and I saw a number of small Malta and to Alexandria. the first step in Egypt. We have then rooms, with loopholes and windows in every direction, where they could see without being seen. They pointed out to me our ship, the Bazaar, the Egypt, the Red Sea, and Persian Gulf; and finally Bombay, and a Mosque, from whence the Dowlah wasjust returning in grand procession; residence in the interior, among the Cutch and other outlandish and they then exhibited to me all their ornaments and trnkets. In re- people. After, as we suppose, the lady was tired of Cutchees and turn, I showed them such as I had about me. My friend the negro-woman, all other Eastern things and persons, the excellent C— bent poor black Zacchina as she was called, was the only one who ventured to smellito my salts, and this she did with so much eagerness, that the tears his way home again by the route of the tomb of NAPOLEON, "placed far amid the melancholy main," right home again to were forced into her eyes in consequence, to the great amusement of her Eastbourne and Windmill Hill ;—as pretty an excursion in and out "We parted with mutual expressions of regard ; and though Vied met as a lady can make. with neither the beauty of Fatima, nor the luxury of a Turkish Harem, Our extracts, short and agreeable, like the lady herself, are yet I was well pleased with the simplicity, mirth, and happiness, that ap- VISIT

" In C—'s absence, I always remained in my own room ; but one evening, as I went upon my terrace to enjoy the fresh sea-breeze which opened, and a black for me to accept of his services. What should you have thought of my with some degree of fear, I immediately retreated, but on looking again, allowed more liberty the waving was repeated ; and several women peeping out, beckoned me ever they pleased; than in Egypt, for they seemed to be permitted to walkout together when- -to them, making signs that the men were all out of the way. Whilst I and once, as we were setting out for, and they were

was hesitating, a Negro woman and a boy came out upon another terrace, nd vehemently importuned me by signs to go to them. I had just been fully veiled, that I had some difficulty to recognize my friends of the Ha- leading Lady Mary Wortley Montague's vited me to return with them to their apartments. All the gentlemen .description of a Turkish Harem ram again, but they affectionately seized my hand, and caressingly in- -an opportunity might never again occur of visiting an Arab one.—After some conflict between my fears and my curiosity, the latter conquered, were with me, and I cannot help thinking that the Arab ladies prolonged and down I went, the boy meeting me at the foot of the stairs ; and, lift-, Cowasjees, my.companions," • ing up a heavy curtain, he introduced me into a small interior court, at Compare with this a similar visit in a very charming article on • Narrative of a Journey overland from England, by the Continent of Europe, the Arabs and Persians, in an early number of the Westminster in the years 1825, 26, 27, 11.0d 28. By ilsorikdonsiBiwood.• 2 vols. tivo. London , Review, also-written by a lady, and au: overland traveller from, Egypt, and the Red Sea, to India ; Including a Residence there and Voyagehoine, '.., 1830. not to India.

the door of which were a number of women's slippers, and inside were about a dozen females clothed in silk trowsers, vests closely fitting the figure, and fastening in front, and turbans very tastefully put on. They

) received me with the utmost cordiality and delight, the principal lady, FEW men would like their wives to write a better book than this ; Zaccara, as I found she was called, making me sit down by her side, pro oun , straightway men take fright at omination ; if they are fumed that I could scarcely drink it. She did the honours, and appeared

caressingly taking my hand, presenting me with a nosegay, and, after tray, in the usual beautiful little china cups. It was, however, so per-

previously tasting it, offering me coffee, which was brought on a silver it is all that may be wished from a female pen, and nothing more.

as superior to the others in manners and address, as an English lady speculative and philosophical, visions of neglected stockings and would be to her maid-servants. Her figure was tight and slender—her logwood-died finger-ends present themselves to one ; if they are features pretty and delicate—her countenance lively and intelligent, —. imaginative, romantic, or sentimental, opium or—let it only be whilst her manners, which were peculiarly soft and pleasing, were at the same time both affectionate and sprightly. The other women crowded whispered—Schiedam—are dreamt of by cowardly men, who, like round me with great enzpressenzent ; by signs we kept up a very animated all other tyrants, are excessively capricious, fanciful, and fidgety conversation, and when we could not quite comprehend each other's in all matters which respect their weak side. We, the lords, meaning, we all laughed heartily. They asked me where I came from, esteem a little feebleness and helplessness a species of luxury,—just whether I had many ornaments, any children, &c., exhibiting theirs with as Achilles might be supposed to make much of his heel: we en- great glee. They were amazingly struck with my costume, which they examined so minutely, that I began to think I should have had to undress courage, applaud, worship an elegant piece of fragility ; we honour to satisfy their curiosity ;—but what most amused them, was, the circum- it as Just the tenderest point—the unarmed gate through which we stance of my gown fastening behind, which mystery they examined over may be reached, even to the innermost citadel, and therefore to and over again, and some broad French tucks at the bottom seemed much be doubly guarded and defended. Robustness is above all things to astonish them, as they could not discover their use. They asked me horrible to man in woman—why ? It is certainly not noxious to the names of every thing I had on, and when, to please them, I took off my cap, and let down my long hair, Zaccara, following mv example, im- its possessor; on the contrary, it contributes to independence— mediately took off her turban and showed me hers : the Negro woman, there is the rub. To talk of an independent woman, is worse than who seemed the wit of the party, in the mean time holding up the lace negro emancipation: does it not destroy all the delicious notions cap upon her broad fat hand, and exhibiting it to all around, apparently implied by tenderness, delicacy, softness, yielding beauty, graceful with great admiration, exclaiming ' caap, caap,' and also endeavouring, motion, reclining loveliness, elegance and fragility of form, Ian- much to their detriment, to put on my gloves, with which they were par- ticularly amused. I sat with them some time, and it was with difficulty guor and love ?—No, a woman must be weak, must drink weak they consented to allow me to leave them at last ; indeed, not till I made liquors, take short walks, sip weak tea, wear flimsy petticoats, and them understand my ' Cowasjee' wanted me. Cowasjee's claims they not read strong books—a strong book would be worse than strong seemed to understand completely, and, on my rejoining the gentlemen, health—certainly not a delicate thing in women. But then, though if I were amused with their description of the tournament, you may woman and her works must be weak, they must not be insipid ; conceive how astonished they were to learn that I had been actually visit-

ing the Harem I

they must be weak to a certain low degree, but not to zero—the " On the following morning I had an invitation, in form, to repeat my proper mixture is to be found by applying the word interesting. visit, and I was conducted up a very handsome collegiate-looking stair- If a woman is so weak that she cannot perform the kind offices of case, near which was stationed the master of the house, apparently at her sex, she loses her loveliness ; she must be strong in her weak- his devotions, but evidently intending to have a furtiveseep at me, with- ness ; in fact, she must be artificially, not naturally weak—not out my being aware of his so doing. I was now received in state in the the weakness of disease, which is that of the sick-bed, and repul- interior apartments, and all the ladies were much more splendidly dressed than on the preceding evening. Zaccara had on handsome striped silk sive, but the luxurious weakness of the exotic in the hothouse, drawers, and a silk vest descending to her feet, richly trimmed with silver which is attractive, provocative—in short, charming. The men lace. All their hands and feet were dyed with henna, and they were are delighted : here- is a creature beautiful to admire—strong much surprised to see mine of their natural colour. The furniture con- enough to be graceful—weak enough to be protected: the pride sisted principally of couches ranged round the room, upon which they Of the animal is flattered—he struts, flaps his wings, crows, peeks invited me to sit cross-legged, after their own mode, and seemed asto- ' nished at my preferring our European style. On the walls was a sentence here and there, finds a grain of corn, and in the midst of scratch- of the Koran framed and glazed, and in a recess was an illuminated ing, chuckling, and sidelincr, he offers his sultana the prize. In Koran, which they showed me. An interesting-looking young woman, the breeched and unfeatherebd creature, the grain of corn is a heart, seated in a low chair, was employed in making silver lace, the process of a fortune, or a name. which she explained to me, as also its use to trim vests and turbans. My Now Mrs. ELwoon's book is of the proper strength ; and ex- costume underwent the same minute investigation as on the yesterday, and as at this time I had on no cap, they were much struck with the ce.pting where she praises her lord, the invaluable C—, otherwise manner in which my hair was dressed, and my shoes and stockings created Lieutenant-Colonel ELWOOD, is a very agreeable and pleasant universal astonishment. Refreshments were brought, but every thing work. She is lively in her descriptions of scenery, manners, and was carefully tasted before it was offered to me,—1 suppose to show no character ; and appears to be a very good traveller,—that is, she treachery was intended,—and I was again interrogated as to my orna- Llways kept her eyes open when there was any thing to see, ments, children, &c. They told me all their names, and endeavoured, but in vain, to accomplish mine.


Our extracts, short and agreeable, like the lady herself, are yet I was well pleased with the simplicity, mirth, and happiness, that ap-

parently reigned in the Arab one ; and I should have been churlish indeed had I not been gratified with their friendly and artless attempts to please just setting in, hand appeared waving significantly at me. Impressed a casement which I had never before observed slowly me to ' Hindy' in the ' Merkab,' or ship, and he really appeared anxious plee

VISIT TO AN ARAB HARAM. me. Indeed, I flatter myself I made a conquest, for a great boy of twelve

or fourteen, took such a fancy to me, that he volunteered to accompany Arab page ? The women in Arabia are, apparently returning from a promenade, we met in the court. They were so care-

Ha- their interview purposely, in order to have a better view of the Fringee . FL-cm the . second volume Ave - take another- visit to another • yvvaissmy, or Indian Zenana. We prefer these passages in a female work, for the female successors of Lady MARY STUART WORTLEY alone can describe them.

" I have already given you an account of an Arab Haram at Hodeida, and perhaps, you will not object to a description of a Jahrejah's Zenana at Bhooj, to which, by express invitation, I paid a visit on the 3rd of Janu- ary, 1826.

" We were received on our arrival at the gates of the palace by Rutten Sie, who attended C— and his staff (he then being in command of the cantonment) to the Rao's Durbar ; whilst the ladies of the party were handed over to the women's attendants, by whom we were escorted through several courts till we reached a flight of steps which led to an apartment, at the door of which, surrounded by her attendants, stood the Rannee, the wife of the ex, and the mother of the present Rao. She re- ceived us most courteously, and with as much grace as an English prin- ces could have done. She was a pretty woman, with soft languishing eyes, very white teeth, and an agreeable and expressive countenance. Iler costume was a handsome sarree, much worked with gold, and her arms, ankles, and throat were loaded with gorgeous bangles and neck- laces of pure gold ; a number of handsome pearls were in her hair, and massy rings in her nose and ears, but her ornaments were rather heavy than elegant, and more valuable than brilliant. After mutually exchang- ing salaams, she took her seat in a low silver arm-chair, supported by cushions, whilst common chairs were placed for us, and the attendants, dressed in the heavy red sarree of the country, sat down on the ground, gazed at us with insatiate curiosity, and talked an immense deal, but respectfully. This Zenana, of which so much has been said, and of which Burke, I think, gives so flowery and poetical a description, was a small dark apart- ment, with unglazed windows closed by wooden shutters. Its furniture consisted of a four-posted bed and a small couch—a very handsome carpet —the Rannee's silver chair,—another of a similar description, probably for her lord and master,—and, with our seats, the inventory is com- pleted.

" The manners of the Rannee were dignified, yet extremely soft, gra- cious, highly pleasing, and very superior to those of her attendants. Though from etiquette never allowed to leave her Zanana, yet she appeared quite au fait at all the gossip; and even scandal of the English camp, and seemed intimately acquainted with the particulars of a matrimonial fracas which had taken place there some time before. She put a number of questions to us, and after we had satisfied her curiosity, on our asking her 'whether she had any family, she told us, she had one son (the young Rao), and, poor thing, it was with a melancholy look and a sigh that she added, and 'two daughters, both dead.' Probably they had 'had milk given them,' the barbarous custom of the Jahrejah tribe. "As I was not sufficient Hindoostanee scholar at this time to carry on the conversation fluently myself, my Ayah assisted as interpreter, and with all my respect for Majesty, it was with difficulty I kept my counte- nance, when, after hesitating a little at the English term for Rannee, she interpreted the dignity into ?Mrs. King.' On our receiving a summons from the gentlemen, Mrs. King' seemed duly impressed with the neces- sity of obeying the behests of a husband, and after presenting us with betel-nut wrapt up in a leaf, termed paung, inundating us with rose- water, and pouring sandal-wood oil over us, we made our salaams and re- tired, she requesting us to repeat our visit, at least, once a fortnight, and I Ratter myself, that in the sameness and tasdium of a Zenana life, we must indeed have been a considerable amusement, and have afforded the fair inhabitants topics for conversation for a long time afterwards. " Mrs. King,' or the Rannee of _Cutch, is said to be very much attached to her husband, the ex-Rao Bharinuljee, notwithstanding he has three or four other wives ; and she has'even built a tomb to some relation whom he murdered, in expiation of the offence. She is very fond of narrating the, particulars of his deposition to all those who will give her a. patient hearing, which she considers as very hard and unjust, and, Nary naturally and properly, does all she can to procure him friends. She was, at this, time, very anxious that her son should marry ; for, to the disgrace of the family, he was ten years old, and had no wife! a circumstance which had never occurred to any of his Predecessors before! anclunfortunately, on account of the expenses, there seemed to be some difficulty in procuring him one."

The next extract is a very intelligible account of the Indian climate.

"The climate of Cutch, which was at one time considered remarkably healthy, whilst we were there, had become very much deteriorated, and some persons attributed this change to the want of rain, very little having fallen for several years. The country is particularly subject to earth- quakes, so much so, that in building contracts, a proviso is always made against them. Slight.shocks are frequently felt, and on the 2nd of July, -we experienced a pretty sharp one, which was, however, fortunately un- attended by any serious consequences. The weather was peculiarly sultry and oppressive, and even in the shade the thermometer was at 91°. About one o'clock in the afternoon, I felt the sofa on which I was sitting so violently shaken, that I fancied a tame goat, which was very fond of fol- lowing me into the bungalow, was rubbing herself against it, but the mystery was soon cleared up, by Cs--, who had perceived the walls of the bungalow shake, coming hastily into the room, and desiring me to go immediately into the Compound for safety. The shock was not, however, repeated, though all oar servants felt it very sensibly, and the Dirjee, -who was at work in the verandah, declared he heard a report like a pistol

from the hill fort. •

" The weather in Cutch is much colder in the winter, and hotter in the summer, than at Bombay, Where the temperature of the atmosphere, from its vicinity to the sea, is more equalized. After the dreadful storm had passed off, which welcomed us on our arrival at Bhooj in November, we found the mornings and evenings peculiarly delightful, though the noontide heat was rather oppressive. About Christmas it became un- pleasantly cold, and I really longed for a-fire, as with allsaur precautions of shutting the glass windows and doors, I could not keep myself warm, and in our drives, I sometimes found a fir-tippet and muff very agreeable. There were even reports of ice having been seen early in the morning, but we did not quite believe this Olt dit. In January and February, there were dense fogs early in the day, and in March, the Spring began, when the weather was truly delightful, possessing all the elasticity rif that charrning.season in Europe. But this was very transitory, for in April the beats commenced, and the dusty winds began to blow. The thermoMe house,

ter even in our h * . _ e,

which was one of the best and coolest in the camp,' ranged in the shade - from 900 to 100°, and in the tents it-mounted occasionally to 110°. The nights, however, were generally cool, which is not always the case in India; though at the full rnoon, they were mucha hotter *suet any other , and positively in the tropics, that orliseems haimpart a consider- le degree of heat; and it was singular that the fever generally was felt at this period, so that the sufferers had a mhst unsentimental dread of Cynthia, when in full splendour, for they were then sure to have, or at least dreaded, a return of the disorder.

" In 1827, the hot winds were not so violent as usual, but when they blew, the whole atmosphere was impregnated with dust; and columns of sand, moving across the plain, or whirling in eddies (termed devils), often reminded us of our old friend the Camseen, but these were wholly unat- tended by the depressing and melancholy effects of that obnoxious blast, and neither the spirits nor the health were injured, beyond the exhaus- tion incident to excessive heat. The effects of these winds were most ex. traordinary ; the skin chapped, the lips cracked, and the hair became as dry and electric, as in intense frost. The furniture went to pieces, the tables split, the frames of the doors and windows shrank, and would none of them close, and all the locks were rendered quite useless. If acciden- tally exposed to it, the sensation was startling, being hotter than the fiercest blast that ever issued from the mouth of a fiery furnace. A book, handsomely bound, if. exposed to it, shrivelled up in a few minutes ; water thrown on the ground evaporated in an instant, and our only resource was

to sit close to tattles, or mats, manufactured Of the fragrant Poa Cynpsu- roides, which is termed Cuscus by the natives, and placed against the windows, and kept well-watered, an agreeable scent, as well as coolness, was diffused through the apartment. The only resource against the heat, was to exclude it ; and from ten in the morning, till sun-set, we were obliged to keep the house shut up and darkened, as if it were a cold night in winter, and I used most anxiously to watch ' the splendid playful sun,' as he sank in his flood of glory beneath the horizon. Most gladly did I then hail the genial loved-return of evening, after the day-beams wither- ing fire—for, till then, the languor that pervaded the flame, rendered even the moving across the room an exertion. The medical men, how- ever, preferred the warm to the cold weather, and there was less sickness at this period than at the latter, when you will be surpised to hear, that complaints of the chest, colds, coughs, and rheumatism, became very pre- valent, and you will laugh at my offering a flannel jacket in India, to one of the attendants, whose dreadful cough quite distressed me. " On the 25th of June, a new moon, and a thunder-storm, ushered in the rainy monsoon ; which epithet, however, is not coi rect, for of rain there was scarcely any ; but the weather became comparatively delight- fully cool, the burnt soil assumed a degree of verdure, and I was again enabled to resume my customary employment, which was out of the question whilst the hot winds prevailed ; this continued for about a couple of months when it vanished in another thunder-storm, and in- tensely hot weather, accompanied with sultry fogs, again set in, which continued till the return of the cold weather. There were occasional storms, but these were very rare, excepting at the commencement and termination of the monsoon.

" The animal tribe, as well as the human race in Cutch, appears to par- ticipate in the wildness of the country, and in our evening drives we used to meet herds of wild-looking goats, and flocks of scraggy, brown-faced sheep, returning home from their pasture, which, with buffaloes and sin- gular-looking oxen, an antelope bounding away in the distance, or a camel roaming about the cantonment, had a very picturesque appear- ance. Sometimes a fox would run across the road, an owl fly heavily past us, or a cowardly-looking jackall sneak off at our approach. The cries of this last animal, mournful and lugubrious in the extreme, and similar to the plaintive wailing of children in distress, often used to disturb our slumbers at night, when they would venture into our compound in search of prey. The rats were great nuisances—the soil around was perforated with their holes,—they infested our bungalow, concealing themselves in the roof, and we have frequently been highly amused at seeing them peeping archly out of their holes in the ceiling at us, keeping a watchful eye on our movements. They used regularly to drink up all the oil in the lamp which was placed on a table in our sleeping aparttinent, and some- times walked off with the wick, which is a dangerous propensity of theirs, as thereby houses are liable tci" be burnt down. The !wise they made was so tremendous, that we were frequently awakened by ft, fully persuaded there were people in the room. "Our old tormentors the white ants, continued their persecutions,. for the floors being of beaten mud, which was well adapted for their ha- bitation, they were most indefatigable in their labours, and it was much more difficult to repress them, than to get rid of moth in a house in Eng- land. The snakes used frequently to make their entree into the apart- ments, and perhaps they thought, from being worshipped in Cutch as the gods of the country, they had a right to go wherever they pleased. One night as I opened the door to call my Ayah, who was sitting on the ground in the passage awaiting my orders, there being no such things as bells in India. I heard close to us a violent hissing, puffing, blowing, and sighing, which she told me was only the wind ; on looking about, how- ever, we discovered an immense Cobra di Capello in a hole close to where she bad taken her station. It was of immense size, and it was with great difficulty its destruction was effected. Another time, hearing a violent shriek, and going into the inner room to inquire the cause, we found her in violent agitation, declaring she had seen one gliding into our sleeping apartment. As it was not a very agreeable companion, we caused a search to be made, but it was so long before it could be found, that the servant said she must be mistaken; however, after some time it was discovered coiled up beneath a trunk. She was very indignant at having her veracity doubted, and complained bitterly of the boy-a` He say, Ma'am, I lie woman l' •

"Our poor Maltese goat, which had attended us throughout all our journey from Europe to Bhooj, and to which we were become quite at-

tached, as it would follow us about like a dog, here met with an untimely fate, by being bit by a snake, which caused her death. It was a singular end for a native of that island from whence all snakes were charmed by St. Paul, according to tradition,--and no one would have imagined-that a goat born on the barren rock of Malta, would have died of the bite of a • snake at Bhooj.

" More pleasing inmates than the said snakes were the pretty, dark. streaked squirrels, which often came into our sitting-room, and sported about on the carpet in search of crumbs ; also, some tame peacocks, which

were wont to take their station on the sofa by my side, feed out of my hand, or, perched on the top of the house, await our return from our evening drive. We had likewise a tame hedge-hog, which ran about the verandah. A young gazelle was offered for sale, and some singular, wild- looking bears brought down from the northern parts tif India, which; had we been endowed with Lord Byron's propensity for ferocious animals, we might have purchased; however, in a country where wild beasts are of everyday occurrence, there-is nothing to excite or delight in being the owner of them, which, probably, was that poor nobleman's motive for taking them under his care. " Hyrenas are common in this part of the world; but, quite unlike the. wild, ferocious animal represented by Bruce, they are, in India,- timid,, cowardly animals, that will flee before a parcel of boys. Wolves and tigers, are frequently met with in the wilder pasta of Cutch, and the wild hog in,

abundance, which affords great amusement to the sportsman. Snipes, quails, widgeons, herons, Peacocks, bustards, and a beautiful partridge, peculiar to Cutch, are likewise plentiful. The whirring, leather-winged bat used to pay us nightly visits, and the vultures, so common in tropical climates, seemed to know by instinct at what time we dined, and were ever punctual to the hour. They are bold and impudent birds, and they not unfrequently attack servants in their way from the cooking-room, which is always in India quite distinct from the bungalow, and carry off the provisions in triumph ere they reach their place of destination.

" CuHums, of the crane species which make a noise resembling a trumpet, are often to be seen sailing through the air in large detachments; also the tall flamingo, which apparently loves to show himself off, and, as he homeward wings his flight, Sailing athwart the setting beam, His crimson plumage glows with brighter light.'

The former have ever an advanced and a rear guard, whilst the main body preserves an arrow-headed form, and the latter birds flying i n line, some- times appear like a white streak in the air, at others, quickly glancing round, present a lively pink to the eye of the beholder, when the golden sun sinks beneath the western wave.

"The horses of Cutch, though proverbially ill-tempered, are noted for their fine figure, fire, and action; they are supposed by Abul Fazil to be of Arabian extraction. Great numbers are brought down from the northern parts of India, and embarked at Mandavie, for exportation. Those sent from Cattywar are of a distinct sort from the Cutchee race. Large parties of merchants used to come down with them from Cabul, Lahore, Mooltan, and other places, and passed through Bhooj, on their route to the, sea-coast, bringing with them shawls and carpets ; Chinese checks for blinds, straw hats, and other articles, were brought back from thence, and were sometimes offered to us for sale.

"1 frequently had a galanterie from Ratan See, of grapes, of a most

delightful sort, large, and with no seeds, each grape wrapped up in cotton, and the whole packed in boxes resembling those in which French sweet- meats are sometimes sold, which had been sent to the Kaumdar as pre- sents from Cabul. From Persia were also brought the produce of Kishma's amber vines; and from Arabia, almonds, pomegranates, and other fruits, 'both dried and in a state of nature. In the bazar, mangoes and plantains of a very inferior sort, dates, custard-apples, figs, walnuts, shaddocks, limes, sweet limes, papaws, and water-melons, were to be procured; and oc- casionally pears and quinces, from the upper provinces, and apples, which though of a very poor species, looked so like home, that I was as delighted

i as the poor lady n the Arabian Nights could have been, whose death was occasioned by the loss of one of those three, which her husband purchased for her, at a sequin a piece, at Bagdad.

The arrival and adventures of Captain DORIA, in the following -chapter, are an interesting specimen of the varied fortunes of those expatriated enthusiasts of Italy, who wander and pine and fight in the remotest corners of the globe, that PERDINANDS, and Emma- sums' may reign in the beautiful land of their birth. - The present state of Longwood is also very prettily described, as also the tomb of NAPOLEON. We wish we had space to insert Mrs. Eiav000's account of the banyan tree on the Nerbudda. Vol. IL p. 293. One trait of Indian apathy or idleness amused us, among many other characteristic touches of the same kind. She asked her maid, who had been at a Hindoo party, what they did to amuse themselves—" We sit down, Ma'am: Whenever she was not oc- nupied with her lady, she inclined in a very graceful attitude, and when asked what she was doing, she invariably answered—" I sit down, Ma'am."