11 SEPTEMBER 1993, Page 26

Belgian mussel power

Sir: I have long mistrusted Digby Ander- son's credentials. Ever since, some years ago, he had the temerity to disparage the cuisine of the Alsace, land of foie gras, ele- gantly odoriferous choucroute, Baeckaoffa and — far superior to the pork pie — tourte de la Vallee de Munster; not to speak of Munster's manly cheese and the elegant white wines of this province.

Now he is on to mussels (Food, 28 August), which he says should not be served as a main course. Even to think of serving a pound of mussels reveals the mean spiritedness of a crypto-socialist, or at least a social scientist.

Let him come to Belgium, where any self-respecting restaurant serves three pounds of mussels as a woman's portion with heaps of excellent chips. Up to 50 dif- ferent ways of serving the mussels are no exception and a man's portion is four or five pounds.

Stafford Wadsworth

PO Box 42, Eijsden, Belgium

`I think it's about Murdoch.'