" Tin: Irish people," wrote a lonely English spinster many

yqirs ago, " cling to their own natural inclinations, and thus their unwritten laws are more -binding to them than any made by Government." That shrewd remark underlines one of the components of that intangible unity " the charm of Ireland." The unwritten laws of Ireland produce such remarkable modern phenomena as children obeying their

and people remembering that " on these plains the stranger

is like a King." They also keep Irishmen unaware of artistic values, keep many Irish hotels unpicturesquely old-fashioned,

and cause Irish women to cook the world's best vegetables and meat with deplorable, if cheerful, ignorance. But there are no " bounders," the • scenery cannot be surpassed, and sport is one of the principal interests of the population. Roads are relatively free from traffic. Above all, the English visitor will enjoy the illusion of being a perfect linguist in a foreign land.

Dublin dates from the Danes, but now looks faded eighteenth century depressingly mixed with Birmingham and Dieppe.

The big hotels are good, the less expensive ones are dear for what they provide. The Abbey theatre, National Gallery and some of the public buildings are worth a visit. Films are rarely better than second-rate. From the purely motoring point of view the best way out of Dublin is the north road through Drogheda, which still remembers Cromwell. Crossing the BOyne the traveller should make a detour to Monasterboice and Mellifont, remnants of " The Isle of Saints and Scholars." The main road by Dundalk crosses the border and reaches Belfast. There is no reason for staying in Belfast, but near-by are comfortable seaside and golfing places, such as Donaghadee. A splendid road runs along the coast by the hills and glens of Antrim. A stop could be made at Garton Point, where there is a comfortable and moderately-priced hotel amid lovely scenery. Portrush, farther on, has good, but more expensive, hotels and excellent golf. Crossing into Donegal,

one meets . mountains, beaches, fiords, abundant fishing, indifferent roads, and probably the nicest people in Ireland. Donegal is one of the counties where the Irish language still struggles for existence and the only place where the original

Irish stock has been preserved. A good stopping-place is PtirtSalon, not cheap, but good: It haS amenities for sport. At Rosapenna and Gweedore, the hotels are good and the salmon fishing excellent, but the traveller may prefer to put op at the village of Bunbeg, where there is an inn which is cheap. fairly comfortable, and has—or had—a very good cook. Coining down through the grand and wild Bosses, roads are poor, and the most tolerable accommodation must be sought in public-houses, which are usually clean and cheap, but not enervatingly comfortable. Portnoo, however, is ideal, especially for the 7, family holiday." There is lawn-tennis and fishing and fair golf. The man who managed the excellent

lintel has gone to the hotel at Inver. The straight road from Dublin to Donegal passe.s through Trim and its splendid Norinun ruins. A detour should be made to Clonmacnoise.

Mr. de Valera has transplanted a colony of Irish-speakers from the poverty-bitten West to the rich lands of Meath, and the people who are the objects of this interesting experiment will talk to the traveller (they know English). The road passes through Cavan and charming rural scenery. Unfortu- nately, on this route one hotel is no worse than another. The non-motorist making for Donegal had better take train or 'hits to Strabane and Killybegs (poor accommodation).

Coming down from Donegal one passes close to Lough Erne, by Lough Melvin. and reaches Sligo, a dismal town set

in enchanting country. Lough Gill, for example, is a smaller and simpler Killarney ; dour slish and Shave Daena, rising above rich lawns and woods, look down on Mr.Yeats' Innisfree

The direct road from Dublin passes close to Goldsmith's country. through Longford, Edgewortlistown (yes, the didactic

Maria) and the Curlew mountains. It is inadvisable to put up anywhere on this mute, though an excellent meal can be had at Boyle. • Prom Sligo one may go through Baffin', _past longli Conn (excellent fishing, especially, coarse fishing) and'

down to Achill. The sunsets are more theatrical than zany- thing this side of Verona, but the road is bad in places and the last twenty-five miles to Mallaranny has a wretched surface. Achill itself has everything the holiday-maker requires, and beauty here is at once shy_ and brazen. On . Achill there are many hotels ; one might choose one called after a jewel. It is neat, but not gaudy, and as reliable as Pulonius.

In -Clare it is well to avoid Lisdoonvarna and put up at knowledge of " cuisine " as distinct from " cooking." Clo=e by are the cliffs of Moher and excellent golf at Lahinch. Connemara may irritate the motorist and then soothe hint by the power of its dark beauty. Sonic people may not care for the "luxury hotels" in- Connemara, and, knowing that ancient Galway is uncomfortable, rinaychoose one of the Fisher- men's Arms on the coast. Not - far from Leenane -there is a decent, unpretentious guest-house. From Connemara one gets to Killarney by way of Limerick. The fishing and history are excellent,but there is little contort moderne other than the Shannon Scheme. Froin Dublin the road to Killarney goes through rich Tipperary. The road is good, but the hotels most dreary, so the tourist with time to spare may prefer to go by way of Wicklow, spending a day—or many days—amid the magnificence of the Garden of Ireland," on roads that are goad save in the mountains, and stopping at Woodenbridge or at wild Glen- mature where the hotel (unlicensed) under new management provides homely comfort at a fair price. - The journey could be continued into Wexford to unknown and sweet Newtown- barry on the Slaney, where there is a good hotel. From there, one might like to turn up on fair second-class roads to Carlow for good hotels, garages and other necessities. By bringing a picnic meal to eat while seeing Kilkenny and hurrying on straight to Killarney or Cork, irritation will be avoided. In County Cork, Ballycotton has glorious sea-fishing, and farther west is one of the loveliest places in this world—Glengariff. Two of the licensed hotels are good ; the fishing is good and the golf struggling to be good (9 holes). The road via Macroom is twisting and has a poor surface ; the other road via Bantry is good but passes through less interesting country. But we set out for Kil- larney ! Well, Killarney is magnificent. But there are touts and organised excursions and the tourist must rely- on his wits and good fortune in the matter of accommodation. There is no lack of hotels, and the better of them are really good; though by no means cheap.

Non-motorists will find all these. places excellent for .walking and well provided with 'buses. The circular 'bus-and-rail tours are good value, but the " side-excursions " may be found somewhat grim. Walkers might get in touch --with An Oige, the hiking organisation. This and other matters can be arranged through the Irish Tourist Association. 15 Upper O'Connell Street, Dublin. This body exists for the purpose of encouraging tourist traffic.

I have a suggestion for an unknown and lovely Irish Holiday—on the rivers. For the Shannon, bring over a ten-ton cabin cruiser or a small motor-boat, or hire a boat at Athlone, even a Canoe. A motor-boat can go from Dublin on the canal to Shannon harbour. Any kind of boat may start at Lough Allen (it may be rough here at times). There- after one may cruise for two-hundred miles and for evermore smile loftily at mention of the Norfolk Broads. There are lakes, and one of them is as big as Lake Lucerne. There are Holy Wells, mountains and streams. Moderate comfort can be obtained at some places, for example, Athlone. Fishing and bathing are unbeatable. But more restful. more verdantly drowsy is " the goodly Barrow." Spenser's " gentle Suir," though not so good for boating, is delightful. For the Barrow, bring or hire a- motor-boat (a twenty-two footer drawing about three feet is the ideal) and go from Dublin along the Grand Canal to Monasterevan. A pass must be obtained from the Canal Company and a charge of two shillings is made for each lock. Canoes and rowing bOats may not use the canal, but may start on the Barrow at sleepy Athy. Night journeys should not be made and a riding lantern should be carried. The veriest tiro is quite safe. From Dublin to St. Mullins in County Kilkenny- is a journey of over a hundred miles. There the river becomes tidal and one may go on to New Ross and Waterford or turn up the Nore towards Kilkenny. One may make fast anywhere. bathe and fish almost everywhere. There is golf at Athy, Carlow (18 holes and good), Bagenalstown. and on Ross, and good -hotels; boat clubs, mechanicS and so on. at Carlow- and New -Ross. The traveller passes throngh unknown, bourgeois Ireland, a land of independent-minded and well- to-do 'yeomen, 'solid and restful. They do not say that they are the finest stock in Ireland ; they are quietly sure Of the fact (Kevin O'Higgins, Mr. Cosgmve and Mr. Bernard Shaw were some of their latest contributions).. It is a secure and settled land of knowledgeable agriculture, of beet sugar. of the oldest Catholic and Protestant schools in Ireland ASivitl..C,,_9(1gre W._ And_ moo. n), zsg !Ades. t Seminaries. It

is the real " Hidden Ireland." _