12 OCTOBER 1945, Page 14

The Mushroom - Minded My postbag suggests that a large number of

people are aruaous to test their palate with more species of mushroom, in the line of the much more catholic habits of the French and Italians and indeed most European peoples. What prevents them from making trial, say, of the Champignon, the Boletus, the Parasol and the Morel is nervousness and ignorance. They are not sure, of their skill in identification, and have small knowledge of which species are safe and agreeable. A great many years ago the then Board of Agriculture produced two slender volumes with coloured illustrations, and these are as good as any publications that I know. But it would be of advantage if the Ministry would reissue and in some respects simplify these volumes with a special eye to the family caterer, and perhaps add cooking instructions. The puffball, for example, which is the commonest of mushrooms, and not the least wholesome, needs a rather special treatment in preparation for the table. The horse-mushroom —as well-flavoured as any but often tough—makes the best of soups and flavouring for stews.