13 APRIL 1996, Page 28

Going Dutch

Sir: Your correspondent Justin de Blank may not have changed his surname but he has lost nothing of his Dutch boorishness in commenting upon Nigella Lawson's antecedents. One must suppose this was a fait accompli before her birth. It is to Nigel- la Lawson's credit that she is 'not sufficient- ly well known' by `Toastie' as a food writer and did not wait to be invited to visit his establishment. What is the public to do act as guinea pigs for a proprietor until the restaurant gets it right? Perhaps new estab- lishments ought to put an 'L' plate in their window until they are ready to pass the test.

Douglas McLernon 20 Claremont Road, Sandymount,

Dublin 4, Ireland