BINNS . MISERIES AND BEAUTIES OF IRELAND. THE author of these

volumes was an Assistant Agricultural Core. missioner on the late Irish Poor-law Inquiry ; and travelled through the Northern half of Ireland in the exercise of his voca. Lion, and through the Southern part, for any thing that appears to the contrary, on his own account. When an official sitting was held in a district, he gives the statistical pith of the inquiry, intermingled with the most characteristic points of the en. dente, as well as accounts of the more striking scenes of dia. tress with which his vocation made him familiar. In passing from commissional session to session, he describes the features of the road. .and the curiosities that lay in its vicinity ; di. versions which seem to have been more frequent than was seemly, if they were made at the public expense. In addition to this kind of' matter, Mr. BINNS furnishes an account of the charitable institutions in different cities : he has collected much its formation on the state of Irish agriculture and the produce of the land ; and he gives the conclusions he has formed as to the exist- ing state of things, as well as the mode in which he proposes to remedy them.

The work of course contains a great number of facts tenth to throw a light upon the state of the agriculture and agricultural population of Ireland ; but it does not equal what might reasonably have been expected from the official character and advantages of the author. Part of this disappointment is to be found in the subject, part in the writer's mind. The " Miseries and Beauties of Ireland,' as far as they are obvious to travellers, have been so frequently painted by artists of every grade, that the subject is pretty well exhausted, and the facts elicited by the Poor Law Commissioners have been already published in their Report. Hence, though many of Mr. BINNS. instances may be new, there is not much novelty of' character in any thing which he describes; and be wants the ability to invest old objects with a fresh interest, or to see more than common eyes or a practical knowledge of com- mon arts may enable him. Nor do the conclusions lie comes to savour of much power of generalization, or of very sound political knowledge. According to Mr. BINNS, Ireland is not overpeopled; there is no necessity for emigration; nor are the small farms injurious. To the plan of workhouse and settlement he decidedly objects; and he would cure the evils of Delete' by locating the unemployed peasantry on the waste lands, granting them a lease of twenty-one years, and assisting them at starting with a small capital. By this project he considers that the produce of Ireland would be doubled. How he would execute his plan, is not very clear ; but he seems to be in favour of an advance of public money to the landlords, on the security of their estates; this money to be invested in colonizing the wastes. Simultaneously with this outlay, he would have all party and religious feuds dropped, and the landlords of Ireland combine in a common effort for the good of the " people." It were difficult to tell which of these two schemes is the more Quixotic ; though the last is by far the more difficult to effect.

In going over so many facts, collected with a steady view to their bearing on a few objects, sonic results must of course be de- duced ; and these, if nut new, are all satisfactory so far as the people are concerned. Mr. BINNS bears constant testimony to their patience under the most dreadful privations; the resignation of the majority, even unto death by slow starvation; their cheer- fulness and family affections, and their industry in seeking after labour. He maintains—and his scattered facts bear him out in the conclusion—that the disorganization of Irish society is, with the doubtful exception of tithes, not traceable to political causes, but to physical distress. Even the most violent outrages, when examined, not only appear to have their source in a reasoning principle, but to be dictated by an intelligible policy. To dig up grass land in the night, seems to an Englishman a wantonly use- less destruction of property ; but in reality it admits of a very simple explanation. From causes connected with the economy of their farms, the great graziers aie unwilling to let any part of their land in small allotments for raising potatoes : without it, the peasantry expect total destitution; and by digging up a por- tion of meadow, the farmer "must let it them from 8 to 12 guineas per Irish acre." Even the murder of a new tenant taking land over an old one, is not altogether so more an act of wild vengeance as it seems. Such is the competition for land, that, in many parts of the country where the practice of former landlords has given a customary right to continue, men at a rack-rent and an annual holding can get a premium of from six to ten years' purchase for their farm; and the interloper, dealing directly with the landlord, is looked upon as defrauding the late tenant. We need only

i

remember the violence of educated and aristocratic planters n de- fence of their " rights," to comprehend the conduct of an igno: raut peasantry in defence—for such is really the case—of their law of property.

The following extracts will partially illustrate some of the points touched upon in the preceding paragraph.

Many of the tenants from a great distance were attending with their earls, to take away poles of Scotch, spruce, and silver fir, lately cut out of the planta- tions, and given to them by their landlord for roofing their cabins. A catt- ierd was nut worth above twelve shillings, and was conveyed upwards of thirty miles; the poor fellows being out on their journey two nights and three days, and travelling, both ways, no less a distance than sixty miles for a load of wood which certainly would not hurt more than six or seven years. Who, with such acts as this before him, can deny that the Irish are industrious and persever- ing ? These men;I was informed, would only expend a few pence on the road, eating nothing but a piece or two of bread. Indeed, they think lightly of diffi- culty, when a worthy object is to be obtained. Many of them travel several miles for days together, to obtain work, and, though often disappointed, still persevere. When they succeed, they only get 10d. or le. per day at the most.

• • • • • •

" Men come two, three, and eves five miles," said Mr. Bible, the innkeeper at Listuore, " and wait about my steps. slapping their feet to keep some warmth in them. It would break the heart of any gentleman to see them. They come at five and six iu the morning ; and dozens often go away, wet through and discouraged, after finding uo work."

AN IRISH TANNER.

The whole length inside was 20 feet, the width 8, and the mad and soil walls were aft feet high. The principal apartment, in the centre, was used as a day- room. Two small places, entirely dark, one at each end of the house, formed the sleeping-apartments : they were five feet six inches wide. The only light that cheered the dwelling of Owen Gray was admitted through the door-way, an aperture nearly four feet high. The whole of the furniture consisted of four old broken stools, about a foot in height; as for a chair, it was out of the ques- tion. Their stack was one pig and a miserable cat ; for they were possessed d neither cow, goat, nor sheep. The children were all but naked ; the shoulder and breast only of one boy, nine years old, who came to us outside, were partially covered with a portion of a ragged shirt. Upon my remarking to his mother that they must stiffer in winter for the want of clothes, she replied, that they were obliged to go without, and were as fond of running out in frost and snow as if they had plenty of clothes, for they were used to it. This, in- deed, the colour and deep wrinkles of their legs and feet abundantly testified. Owen Gray and his wife had been blessed with fifteen children, "and she had been so fruitful," to use her own words, "that she had chanced them double three times." Eleven were living. " Bare hacks," said the `poor woman, "would not fret me, if we had plenty to eat. I would be a proud woman if we had potatoes and a grain of salt in times ; but we cannot get the salt itself, nor even the bare potatoes, and we are lost for want of beds. Nine sleep in the two we have, which arc nothing but a bit of straw, covered with an old blanket." The rick yard was furnished with two small ricks or stacks, from which the morsel of grain had been nearly all thrashed out, and the straw piled up again. This dwelling was not particularly selected on account of its meanness. It was the first we came to in the barer." ; and while I sketched it, my companion visited others which he reported to be, if possible, worse ; and I was subse- quently told that many in the country were decidedly inferior to Owen Gray's.

Passing from political economy, we turn to Mr. BINNe more general matter, fur a description of the

TEACH AND HOSPITALITY OT DANNY/PANE.

Darrynane, the residence of Mr. O'Connell, ie distant from Kenmare thirty. one miles; and I was informed by the landlord of the inn at the latter place, and indeed by all that spoke to me on the subject, that I should share, at the residence of the celebrated " Liberator," the hearty welcome which is invari- ably offered to all who teased the wilds surrounding it. The road front Ken. mare to Darrynane is mountainous, parts of the country being very thinly in- habited, and does not possess a single inn or house of public accommodation • Darrynane, in fact, is the only place of entertainment " for man and horse ; " and Darrynane is open to all who choose to accept its hospitality. • • • Old castles abound in the course of the drive from Kenmare; and from the high moors about two miles before we arrive at the descent to Darrynane, an extensive and noble prospect is commanded. The mighty Atlantic bounds this magnificent view, which includes, among other things worthy of notice, the mouth of the Kenmare river, the islands of Scarriff and Dinish,. riming abruptly out of the ocean, the rocks called the Bull, Cow, and Calf, at the extremity of the peninsula which divides Bantry Bay from Kenmare river, and lastly, Darrynane House and the ruins of Darrynane Abbey, reposing at the foot of the mountains, on the borders of Kenmare river, near the open sea. Having descended the hill, we overtook a company of men, boys, and girls, driving about thirty Mali horses and mules, laden with panniers of turf; they occu- pied the whole breadth of the road for some distance ; and, on being asked where they were going, said, " We are taking tell to warm the Liberator." It was Saturday evening, the 17th of December, when I arrived at Darry- nane; and, leaving left my letter of introduction to the proprietor along with some other papers in Dublin, I had an opportunity of proving the correctness of the statements which had been made to me at Kenmare respecting the hospitality of the abode. I had, in fact, no other introduction to Darrynane than that I was a stranger and an Englishman • but these were amply suffi- cient. I was received and treated with the kindest attention ; and soon felt myself at home in the house of Mr. O'Connell. At Darrynane I spent the whole of Sunday, and remained there during the night of that day. The family, during my visit, consisted of Maurice O'Connell, John, and Daniel the younger, (the Daniel was in Dublin,) two nieces of Mr. O'Connell, who were staying there on a visit, Dr. O'Connell, and Dr. O'Sullivan, the chaplain ; Mr. Primrose, the land agent of the estate and a Magistrate, and several other gentlemen whose names I do not remember. Maurice O'Connell was unfortunately so far from well as to be unable to leave his room. The day on which Larrived was a fast-day ; the table, notwithstanding, was admirably supplied with a variety of fish and some excellent Kerry mutton, for the use of Protestant strangers. Fourteen different kinds of fish, caught close to the place, are frequently on the table at the same time. The coast abounds with fish; as many as thirty turbot have been caught at one draught. Darrynane House, is an extensive pile of buildings, erected at different periods and without regard to any particular order of architecture or any prevailing uniformity of plan. Convenience and the comfort of his guests, seem to have guided Mr. O'Connell in the enlargement of his mansion. In front of the house stretches an extensive garden, at the end of which is a fine natural lawn of soft abort grass—in spring and summer the scene of various spent* and pleasant recreative exercises. The sea, which here forms a cove or ley, comes close up to the lawn. The sands of the shore are firm and clean; and the waves of the bay, which struck me as being of a remarkably emerald hue, are interrupted in their magnificent progress by a few picturesque rocks. The ruins of the Abbey are at the opposite side of this small bay, a quarter of a mile from Darrynane House. A rookery presents a scene of per- petual animation to the north of the house • Ilea in the same direction are "tensive plantations, containing rustic bowers tastefully designed, and winding walks by the side of clear brooks. All these, of course, I saw under Considerable disadvantages ; but still I saw sufficient to convince me that Darrynane was a lovely spot. The air is peculiarly wholesome ; and, during my stay there, a letter was received from Mr. O'Connell, anticipating wkft pleasure the enjoyments of his native place, and speaking with delight of de- 1 iving from its healthy climate a good stock of health to enable him to re- commence the tug of war in St. Stephen's. When at Darrynane, hunting is his favourite exercise; and I was informed that he climbs the rugged moun- tains, after his favourite pack of beagles, with all the untiring activity and buoyancy of youth.

CHAPEL AND SERVICE AT DANNY/CANE.

Darrynane was a small abbey of Canons Regular of St. Austin, founded ha the seventh century. Nothing now remains of it but the bare walls, the in-

terior space being occupied by gravestones and sknlls, of which immense numbers are piled together, bleached by the atmosphere. Within these bare and shattered walls lay the body of Mrs. O'Connell, but it was about to be removed to Dublin.

Learning that I had a wish to hear a sermon in Irish. the priest of the parish invited me to go with him to his chapel, a mile from Darrynane. About two hundred of his congregation attended ; and though I dill not understand the subject of the discourse, I was much impressed with the devoted manner of the worshippers, not only in this lonely chapel among the wilds of Darrynane, but in every part of Ireland with which I am acquainted. They who sneer at the religion of Boman Catholics, might be induced to forego their contempt, if they witneowil the consolation derived by the wretched halt-starved L isle from the despised faith of their fathers. As a Protestant, I am led to dissent from many of the doctrines of the Church of Rome ; hut, baying seen the power of those doctrines over the hearts and conduct of their votaries, I am atnanished not to mingle my dissent with uncharitable vituperation. The sermon,. I afterwards learned, consisted of quotations fiotn the Holy Fathers, and of ex- hortation, to prepare fur death, by hailing godly lives. Many employed them- selves during the continuance of divine service in counting their heads, but I did not observe any bibles or prayer-books. The minister of this congregation was a man of humble pretensions, but industrious and zealous in his calling.. In the morning he rose before it was light, having to attend a chapel over the mountains, and, on his return, officiated at that near Darrynane. I secepted his imitation to join him at breakfast. This was a late meal for him : but the priests make it a rule, from which they seldom or never depart, to take nothing to eat before the duty for the day is finished. The dwelling of this unostenta. tious minister of the Gospel was a very humble cottage or cabin, auch as few labourers in England would consent to live in. "The Liberator," I understood him to say, "allows me this little farm of about twenty acres ; I receive nothing

from my flock except the labour they are inclined to give me ter my farm, when it suits their convenience." The congregation were remarkably clean rued respectable looking, and are a stout and healthy people. They believe their ancestors to have been of Spanish origin, and feel some pride in the antiquity of their descent. From this feeling of family pride Mr. O'Connell himself is not quite free ; making use of the circumflex over the a 0," as en indication of Spanish origin.