13 JULY 2002, Page 37

SPECTATOR MINI-BAR OFFER

Simon Hoggart

About 20 years ago I met a French vigneron in a Cognac château and told him that English wine was hugely improved. He favoured me with that look of mingled pity and contempt the French manage so well, and said: `Yurr English wine, eet tastes of rain!'

No longer. English wines now regularly win prizes against the rest of the world. Many are delightful. Most are white, and thus are perfect for summertime drinking. At a recent tasting I was so impressed by the many varieties made at the Three Choirs vineyard in Gloucestershire that I decided that, for convenience sake, the latest mini-bar should come from them. All are delicious, though you might want to try the sampler case to get some idea of the wide range and quality now being made in this country. Three Choirs have given us a generous 10 per cent discount on all wines.

At £3.60 the Premium Selection white 2001' is superb value. It's from Seyval (a hybrid grape which makes excellent, complex wine in our climate, so naturally the French are trying to get it banned) plus Reichensteiner and MiiIler-Thurgau. It's light, fresh, grapefruity and terrific value.

Three Choirs shift vast amounts of their Siegerrebe 2000(2). It is a notch up: silky, smooth and spicy. Like all good white wines it will open out after half an hour or so, when it will be luscious and stylish. A distinguished and delicious wine, as good as anything from France at £6.75.

Probably the greatest success in English vineyards has been sparkling wines, and no wonder, since our weather is very similar to that of Reims. The Vintage Reserve Brut 1997m is great value at £9. It combines the rounded fruitiness of Seyval and the depth of Pinot Noir, one of the leading champagne grapes. We all loved it. It is appley, rounded, smooth; and your friends will be mightily impressed to hear where it comes from.

Finally a red — amazing for England, but there's more coming every year. The Premium Selection 20004' is from the obscure Regent grape, blended with Burgundy's Pinot Noir, and it's superbly light, yet with a powerful flavour which opens up with airing. Lightly chilled, it would be perfect with barbecues and summer picnics. It costs £5.40.

Delivery, as ever, is free, and there is a further .E3 if you buy two cases or more.