13 SEPTEMBER 1997, Page 58

Le Boeuf Couronne and Le Vieux Fournil

DESPITE the baking heat this has been a marvellous summer for the gastronome to spend in France, for, with very nearly ten francs to the pound, meals in the French countryside have offered unbeatable value. With cooler autumn now upon us, and still nearly nine and a half francs to the pound, this would seem the ideal time to drive over to France and set about a little rural eating. With that in mind I thought it might be helpful to direct Spectator readers towards a couple of delectable establishments; but don't for goodness' sake all go there at once or they will never cope with the mob.

The first is an enchanting small hotel in the square of a sleepy little town called Mezieres-en-Brenne, near Le Blanc, in the depths of La France Profonde. La Brenne is a national park, flat and marshy, full of small lakes called 'etangs', and known for hunting and witchcraft. It is an area which most tourists never reach, but which as the Michelin Guide says 'yaw le detour'. In an inn which has been there since 1640 Brigitte and Bernard Brossier, who look like a young, up-to-date version of Jack Sprat and his wife, welcome you to their pretty, beamed dining-room where Brigitte is in command while Bernard performs miracles in the kitchen. For Sunday lunch there are menus from 100 to 240 francs (on weekdays there is even a menu at 70). My companion, Russian law student Zarina Korolova, chose the four-course menu at 110 francs, while I, being greedier, went for the five-course epic at 170 francs. Both were memorable.

Zarina began with some rillettes of local pike, served with a compote of baby onions, fully flavoured and of perfect consistency, and I started with two local fishes — carp and silure (which we call catfish) — served in smoked fillets in a tarragon cream: splendidly contrasted fish impeccably smoked and beautifully served. Next came my extra course of quenelles of pike in a buttery shellfish sauce, a dish which had the finesse and intensity of flavour that win Michelin stars. For her main course Zarina chose a plat du jour, some dumplings of magnificently fresh turbot served with ten- der young leeks and what Zarina was `What I did on my two week suspension.' delighted to recognise as kasha. She greatly enjoyed it. My choice was a superb fricas- see of plump, tender pigeon most imagina- tively served with a sauce containing red summer fruits; the contrast of tastes was memorable. Next came some fromage frais, made with goat's cheese and served with herbs, garlic and salad.

After this we still managed to fit in desserts of chocolate and coffee gateau laced with cream and Grand Marnier in Zarina's case, and three chocolate mousses — black, white, and milk — in mine. With coffee and home-made chocolate truffles, kirs royales to start with and a bottle of excellent local Valengay rosé with the meal, the bill came to an unbelievable 419 francs. Imagine getting a meal like that here for £42.

Our other meal was almost equally good and came to even less — under £30 for four courses, a bottle of wine and coffee. This was at Le Vieux Fournil in the tiny village of Chambon in the Indre-et-Loire, not far from the small spa town of La Roche Posay. This is an ancient bakery, with ovens, converted into an intimate dining- room with a pretty terrace outside, on which we ate. It has been owned for the past six years by Mario Cherioux, who runs the room with abundant charm, and Philippe Fonteneau, who cooks with skill and considerable invention. Our 95 franc Saturday night dinner started off with Zari- na eating some slices of charentais melon put back in its shell with fresh salmon mari- nated in dill: an unusual contrast of flavours which worked brilliantly. My chopped oxtail in aspic with a cold rata- touille flavoured with cumin was equally off-beat and equally delicious. Next Zarina chose a mixed grill of fish — cod, bream and salmon — served with saffron rice and a sorrel sauce, and I had rump steak served with a cream and green pepper sauce, accompanied by stuffed mushrooms, toma- toes and courgettes: admirably cooked, though the meat was a little tougher than was ideal. Then came a fine selection of cheeses — cow and goat — before an arresting pair of desserts. Zarina's was dates in a vanilla and caramel cold soufflé (`pudding' was the 'French' word on the menu), served with a gorgeous custard, and I had some bananas flambes in a pancake with coconut milk: off the wall but quite delicious. With an excellent St Nicolas de Bourgeuil, served chilled, and coffee with chocolates, this admirable meal came to just 291 francs. The restaurant was full but Mario's single-handed service never fal- tered and everyone looked genuinely happy. What a contrast to Saturday night dining out here in England.

Le Boeuf Couronne: 9 Place Charles de Gaulle, 36290 Mizieres-en-Brenne; Tel: 02 54 38 04 39. Closed Sunday evening and Monday.

Le Vieux Foumil: 37290 Chambon; Tel.• 02 47 91 02 23. Closed Wednesday.