14 JULY 1973, Page 12

'The Good Life

Not playing the game

Pamela Vandyke Price

Just as summer is signified — at , least in London — by a ,rush of pneuMatic drills to the roads, so the minds of many, newsprint, music Programme and, Lsuppose television screen addicts are dominated by preoccupations with bats and balls. It is difficult for me to be charitable about this because I regard games as something children are given to do to pass the time until they are able to read, talk and make things. The 'fact that responsible adults play pa-lour games on the radio, infant games in halls formerly at least nominally places of entertainment, and devote hours and hours of time watching other people hitting, running, smiting and convoluting themselves makes me suspect that they really did regard their schooldays as the happiest of their lives. Being one for whom hell will be school and compulsory games and gym all over again, I merely wish that all this — to me misdirected — energy, could be directed to doing my housework, vacuuming my car, sewing up everything that is clawed together with pins, staples and : sellotape and plumbing the depths of the In 'tray.

Not that I am narrowmindedly gastronomic. I wotild only insist on half newspaper, radio and-television space being given up to wine and food. The other .half could be devoted to a critical appraisal of the various raw, materials we eat and drink, and there might be special weekend supplements on a million years of eating and drinking, encyclopaedias of the great chefs, and updated versions of all the rules and regulations governing the production and sale of everything from miniatures of fizzy lemonade up. If we knew exactly what had gone into various public figures throughout a week, we might deduce what — in terms of speech and action — would come out. " Little is expected this coming months of shadow home secretary Blank," would read the weekly political report; " He suffered a succession of frozen chicken din ners; insufficiently lubricated by a job lot or pseucto-Lnablis tnat is unfortunately dominating City functions just now. But Chancellor Blink seems in excellent trim for confronting the Cabinet as he has just returned from attending a comparative tasting of Roquefort and RhOne wines, although it is possible he may not get the support he had hoped for from the Member for Noshville, Mr Blank, who has been representing Britain at the international peppermint cream contest in Brussels.” As for all these wielders of bat and ball, can they be gastronomic, as Sidney Smith said of bishops ;lifting? Possibly the most they can do is to plan gargantuan repasts for when they are not agitating their limbs, or, in moments of devotion, offer to break training for a beloved object. Would one, subsequent to some violent exercise, even be capable of appreciating the delicacy of lightly seasoned cucumber veiled in the thinnest of brown bread, the creamiest of cold scrambled egg and chopped chives lurking within the lightest and smallest bridge roll, the curled slices of buttered fruit loaves, the shredded apple and grated cheese drifted onto rounds Of purnpernickel, the puffs of freshly baked scones with butter cream and jam — all, alas, not merely superfluous to the necessities of life, but, unless kept as rare luxuries, not really very Good for One? If you've got to be a spectator of sports, you probably need such things to keep your attention off the game. But a drink at least is something that both• players and spectators will require — and I don't mean tea. (My dislike of this beverage, which doesn't agree with me at all, equals my total lack of interest in le sport.) There are many versions of Sangria, which is• a Spanish cooler, and which has the added advantage of being refreshing even if you can't chill it. As it can be made strong or weak, it is very suitable for summer parties which include both infants and the aged, and is pretty to look at and inexpensive. In a bowl or jug, put a bottle of red wine — something good and cheap and; if you're being traditional, a Spanish red. To this add a sliced orange and sliced lemon, the juice of another half lemon and whole orange, and about 2 inches of sliced cucumber, .unpeeled. Ideally. add a peeled sliced peach too. The inclusion of a wineglassful of brandy, Cointreau, organe curacaor, as I recently 'used, cherry brandy, is a great asset —. miniatures of liquers can be, used up in this Way. Leave all this to get used to itself for about an hour or more. (Some people add sugar, but for me the mixture is sweet enough, though a few drops of Angostura Bitters are a good idea.) Then add to the wine an equal quantity of fizzy lemonade, preferably having chilled this, some ice cubes and serve. I use 7-UP ideally. The basic proportions of half and half wine and mineral water are, I think, good, but if you don't include any spirits at all, then perhaps twothirds wine is better.