14 MAY 1842, Page 6

She eourt.

THE attention of the Court was absorbed in the earlier part of the week in the last preparatives for the grand ball at Buckinginun Palace on Thursday; minor gayeties being suspended for the time.

The Queen and Prince Albert returned to town from Claremont on Monday, followed by the two children and the suite, and escorted Vat party of Hussars. Prince Albert inspected his new regiment, the Scots Fusilier Guards, at .the Wellington Barracks in Birdcage Walk, on Wednesday. Ills said that when his Royal Highness assumed the command of the regi- ment be ordered all the soldiers under punishment to be pardoned. On Wednesday, too, the Prince presided at the Literary Fund dinner. The Queen Dowager went to the Italian Opera on Tuesday, with the Dutchess Ida, the Duke Bernard, (who had arrived at Marlborough House from Rotterdam on Monday night,) and Prince Edward of Saxe Weimar. The Dutchess of Kent was at the Opera on Saturday. The Duke of Cambridge dined with Mrs. De Rothschild on Monday, at her residence in Piccadilly. The Dutchess of Cambridge and the Directors of the Ancient Concerts were entertained at dinner by Earl Cawdor on Wednesday.

Nothing occurred to mar the high festival at the Palace on Thurs. day night : in splendour of all kinds—of dress, of jewellery, and of fe- male beauty—it disappointed no expectation. Of what is understood by the name " masque" it had no character : it was merely a fancy ball ; but of that kind, perhaps as distinguished for gorgeous effect as any in history. The design of the evening's entertainment, if de- sign it can be called, was simple : the Queen and Prince Albert were to "be" for the nonce Edward the Third and his wife Philippa ; the officers of the Court were to be the officers of Edward's Court; seated on the throne, Edward and Philippa were to receive the Dutchess of Cambridge as Anne de Bretagne, leading Louis the Twelfth and a court of her own ; the rest of the invited guests might follow, some in sets of costumes, others in what dresses they pleased ; and then dancing was to begin. The design was accomplished ; and the brilliant assem- blage was almost as varied in dress and epoch as the population of the Elysian Fields

The whole of the state-apartments were thrown open for the occasion ; the Throne-room and Ball-room being reserved for dancing. The Throne-room was newly fitted up : the usual throne was removed, and replaced by one copied from the time of Edward the Third. The throne and the alcove in which it was placed were lined with purple velvet ; on which were worked, in gold, the crown of England, the cross of St. George, and the arms of England and France. The state- chairs, saith a chronicler, "were what might be called of Gothic de- sign, and the throne was surmounted with Gothic tracery." At the back of the throne were emblazoned the Royal arms of England, in silver.

The company began to arrive soon after nine o'clock. Some time after ten, the Queen and Prince took their seat, surrounded by their Court.

Queen Philippa's attire was magnificent : we follow the Morning Post's account of the dresses, at a respectful distance, and in miniature-

" Over a skirt, with a demi-train of ponceau velvet, she wore a suit of blue and gold brocade, the centre and edges lined with minever, which formed the sto- macher; a fur allowed only to those of high degree. From the upper edge of the stomacher descended a band ofjewels, laid on gold tissue ; and the armlets and other parts of the dress were inlaid with jewels. Over all was an ample mantle of splendid gold and silver brocade, with flowers of silver mattes and brilliants on a gold ground ; the work of Spitalfields weavers. The hair was folded inwards, I is Clovis, and surmounted by a light crown of gold. The Queen wore but one diamond on her head, valued at ten thousand sterling, and shining likes. star."

The Prince's handsome face and manly form, albeit less stalwart than that of the potent Edward, were set off by the dress— "From the shoulders descended a mantle of scarlet velvet, of the finest British manufacture, bordered by a broad gold-figured lace, set on each side with large pearls, upwards of one thousand in number; it was lined throughout with ermine; and a band of purple velvet connected the cloak when on—the band studded with fine large diamonds, rubies, and emeralds, and the centre stud, which was larger than the others, contained an enormous turquoise, of a most brilliant colour' twelve smaller studs of diamonds and emeralds ornamented the band, which was also beautifully embroidered with gold ; and on each side, the band was fastened by a massive gold aissutte, set with brilliants, rubies, emeralds, and other precious stones. Under the mantle the Prince wore a long robe, of rich blue and gold brocade of the most costly description, expressly ma- nufactured for this costume. It reached from the neck, which is bare, to the ankles • the close collar round the neck being of purple velvet ; and an opening on the left side was also bordered by the same, on which were embroidered sap- phires, topazes, turquoises, rubies, and emeralds. The opening was for the pur- pose of displaying the Garter worn by his Royal Highness. Hose of scarlet silk, with shoes en suite, richly jewelled, clothed the Royal extremities; and on the head was a regal coronet of gold, set with gems of price."

A brilliant and picturesque groupe surrounded the Royal pair; the Officers of the Household and some of the chief guests personating the officers and retainers of Edward's Court. The Earl of Liverpool was a Seneschal of the fourteenth century ; Earl Delawarr was Edward's Lord Chamberlain, in a mantle and hood of crimson velvet and gold and a coat-hardi of white satin and gold ; the Earl of Mansfield brought his Eglintoun experiences to bear, and was a Templar in full military costume ; the Marquis of Normanby was the accomplished Walter de Mauney, brother in arms of Edward the Black Prince, and he as well as others wore a complete suit of armour. Some glaring anachronisms crept even into the principal grOupe : thus, the Duke of Norfolk was the Duke of Norfolk and Earl Marshal of Elizabeth, with a doublet of cloth of gold and tunic of black and velvet, and a hat with a jewel and feather. So ordered, the Court of Edward and Philippa awaited the ap- proach of Anne of Brittany and her Court. The French Court assembled in the lower rooms of the Palace, entering by a separate door. At half-past ten o'clock, marshalled by heralds, it entered the Throne-room in procession. The tall stature of the Dutchess of Cambridge bore well the dress of Anne— It was of crimson velvet, open on each side ; beneath which was a robe of silver and gold tissue, embroidered with diamonds, rubies, pearls, and sapphires ; the corsage was entirely covered with diamonds and other precious stones. Head-dress, a regal crown, set with brilliants and valuable rubies and emeralds, with puff of crimson velvet; from which hung behind a long tulle veil, exquisitely embroidered with gold.

The partner of her Royal Highness's state for the evening was, not the Duke of Cambridge, but the Duke of Beaufort; who filled the role of Louis the Twelfth, and the King's dress, after Montfaucon,—a robe of blue velvet and gold, cloak of cloth of gold lined with satin and pow- dered with ermine, and crimson hat and feathers, the whole bedight with jewels. Prince George was Gaston de Foie, in violet velvet and gold, edged with sable fur; sleeves of crimson and gold, cap of black velvet with jewel and plume of feathers, and black boots turned over with white and gold. The Prince chose well the part of the robust young soldier. Entering the Throne-room, the Dutchess and her train made their obeisance, and took their stations; the French Court form- ing three " French quadrilles." Others of the guests followed, also

ranged in separate quadrilles; each party in Greek, Spanish, Hungarian, Crusader, Scotch, Cossack, or " Waverley " costume—the last a quadrille of some of Walter Scott's most popular characters.

At the proper hour, the Seneschal conducted the Queen to the Supper- room, and those followed that liked. The Queen finally retired at a quarter to three o'clock ; but dancing continued to a later hour. The dresses were the characteristic of the evening's pageant: and amid so brilliant, so motley, and so crowded a scene as that which filled the two dancing-rooms with dazzling splendour, choice is bewildered in

the attempt to describe. We take a few of the pen-and-ink sketches of the courtly Post, almost haphazard, and rather as standards to enable the reader to guess at the picturesque glitter of the rest, than because they stand alone for magnificence. The Dutchess of Beaufort.—" Costume of Isabella of Valois. A most su- perb costume. 'Was composed of a magnificent drap d'argent shirt, embroi- dered in relief with bouquets of flowers, butterflies of gold and precious stones, of which the effect surpassed any thing of the kind we have ever seen. The under-skirt of royal crimson velvet, most magnificently embroidered with silver, pearls, and diamonds, appeared to us, by its dazzling effects, to be more the work of fairies than that of mortals. The body a. revers of the same mate- rial, covered with diamonds, terminated with a resille Espagnolle of pearls and silver chains. Th.- band was of most costly stones, and the sleeves of the velvet I crevees d'argent, embroidered with diamonds and pearls falling grace- fully, and most nobly ornamented with the Spanish regality." The Marchioness of Londonderry.—" A. lady of the age of the Crusaders,

with a group of fair Crusaders. Mantle of white satin, covered by a blonde of silver open-worked, of the age of Louis the Eleventh, lined with ermine; the jupe the same — looking like scales of armour ; jacket in cloth of silver, trimmed with ermine, and on every protruding tail is attached a diamond ; to fasten the mantle, two suns, in brilliants of surpassing splendour ; in tiont a cordelliere of diamonds, with a broad plaque at top, in pearls and diamonds. The only coloured part of the dress is on the left arm, a red cross of velvet, over which is laid a magnificent cross in invaluable diamonds ; round the waist a riviere of diamonds, applied in a Greek pattern. On the head a crown of matchless diamonds and gems, with a rezilla on both sides of the bead, and in front studded likewise with jewels. The costume was so surpassingly magni-

ficent, and withal so true to history in its form, that her Ladyship looked like a Queen of the middle ages evoked from the tomb, weariug her coronation- dress. Even her Ladyship's shoes and gloves bore diamonds." Countess of Eldon.—" A costume in the time of Francis the First. A dress of rich sky-blue velvet, with two hanging sleeves of the same, lined with white

satin, trimmed with silver, and clasped at the top with a superb cluster of diamonds ; the front of the dress of white satin, very richly embroidered in silver, and finished round the waist with a pale rose-colour and silver scarf. Head-dress, a small cap at the back of the bead of blue velvet, ornamented with diamonds, and falling from the back out a long veil of rich silver muslin." Baroness Brunow.—" A magnificent and costly costume de Russe, of the time of the Empress Catherine; evidently made with a strict regard to the prevailing fashion of that period. It consisted of a rich scarlet velvet tunic, with open sweeping sleeves, trimmed with ermine, and lined throughout with white satin. It covered a robe of rich white satin, the stomacher in front of which was literally covered with jewels. The Baroness wore full white silk drawers, with white satin boots embroidered with gold. Head-dress, a Russian cap of scarlet velvet, trimmed with ermine, with a heron's feather in front, fastened by an aigrette of brilliants and rubies. The button and tassel attached were composed ot the same precious gems."

Baroness Re/muse,,—" It it is any pleasure at these fairy scenes of our beautiful and lovely Queen to gaze upon those lovely figures which revive olden

times, it is not a less one to witness the elegant costumes which are repre-

sented. Such is the one of the fair and beautiful young Baroness. Her costume was one of her own country ; and represented. to UB a Swedish no- blesse, composed of a skirt of yellow damask, embroidered in gold. The car- racco in dark blue, trimmed with real ermine, opened upon a splendid white satin body, trimmed with a stomacher of costly diamonds and pearls. Her head-dress was curious in itself, being the original shape of Sweden ; it was surrounded with feathers, and fastened with diamonds and precious stones."

Lady Ernest Bruce appeared in the costume of Rebecca; "and no one could so well represent the character as herself; the beauty of her face and form suited so well that style of costume. The dress was composed of rich

green velvet, embroidered in gold ; the sleeves of which form almost a picture of themselves, being open and showing a second sleeve in the Oriental style, made in drap d'or, and under which was another one of light material, giving a

softness to the whole. The under-petticoat was most splendid ; being entirely of drap d'or, with a most costly cachmere shawl fastened round the waist, giving a finish to the whole. The turban must not be forgotten it was com- posed of a scarf of the same texture as the one already described, and which had in the centre one of the most costly gems it is possible to imagine." Duke Of Buccleisch.—"Costume of a Knight of the Order of the Garter; reign, Edward the Third. A surcoat of cloth of gold, with hanging sleeves to the same, lined with white satin, confined over the hips by a girdle profusely

ornamented with gems, from which was suspended a dagger, the sheath also studded with valuable jewels; over the surcoat, a rich blue v.elvst,scarf, with a star and two crescents, embroidered with gold and precious tea; from the shoulders was suspended the flowing mantle of the Order 4:2' e'Garter, with the badge of that illustrious order displayed on the left side ; scarlet silk pan- taloons and sleeves, with shoes to match ; on the left leg the garter. His Grace ware a ducal coronet of gold." Marquis of Worcester.—" Costume of the time of Charlemagne. A tunic of rich purple satin, elegantly flowered with gold, lined with crimson satin, and trimmed with sable ; the body and girdle profusely ornamented with jewels;

pantaloons of crimson silk, sandaled with gold, with shoes of cloth of gold; suspended from the girdle was a silver antique hilted sword, elaborately chased, with crimson velvet scabbard, with silver chasings. Cap of crimson velvet, trimmed with sable."

Some of the dresses were remarkable only for the persons that wore them : the Dutchess of Bent, the Dutchess of Gloucester, and Dutchess Ida of Saxe Weimar, appeared as ladies of rank in the fifteenth cen- tury; the Duke of Sussex in Highland costume.