14 NOVEMBER 1987, Page 59

Sam White

DINING or lunching alone should involve not only the pleasure of enjoying good food while not having to talk but also being able to take in an agreeble passing scene. Some Paris restaurants, like Lipps or the Coupole, excelled in providing both, but the death of the owner of the former, M. Caz, has led to a startling drop in the quality of both the food and the clientele — it was once very choosy about the latter — while the Coupole seems to have been taken over by an older and more staid generation than the one which made it throb with life in my earlier years in Paris. 1 recommend in its place its old rival the D6me, almost next door, which is now a superb fish restaurant, and as a substitute for Lipps the Pharamond, a splendid Nor- man restaurant where the old Les Halles used to be and whose outstanding special- ity is tripe. No tripe lover should miss it.