15 JUNE 1962, Page 31

Wine of the Week

ONLY one vineyard I know of -• has an appellation contrOlie all to itself: Chateau Grillet, south of Lyons, which grows a firm, full-flavoured dry white wine of the highest quality in the smallest possible amounts -- fifteen casks in a good year, usually about eight, and last year only three. (The great. Yquem has produced as many as 400.) was lucky enough 0, be given a bottle of the 1960 the other day, which I drank with a grilled sole, much to the fish's advantage and my own: it is a big, yet subtle wine, with a blossomy scent and a bitter but fruity after- taste. Retail, it costs 33s. a bottle, and I must be frank and say that a German wine at that kind of price would be more to my taste. But it is one of the great wines of France, and un- doubtedly the rarest, and will appeal especially to. those who prefer white burgundies to hocks (which I don't). As very little is made, very little is exported : what comes our way is shipped by Asher, Storey, of 127 Lower Thames Street, EC3 (MINcing Lane 7962), who will reveal to earnest inquirers where they can buy a bottle.