15 JUNE 1985, Page 41

Raymond Keene

I discovered the Belvedere more or less by accident, while strolling through liolland Park last summer. It used to be the summer ballroom of Holland House and is particularly appropriate as a fine-weather restaurant — light decor, a restful view overlooking the gardens and fountain, combined with the chance of seeing various interesting fauna. The eerie cries which punctuate meals come from peacocks, while there are even a couple of ostriches in the vicinity, though they tend not to wander into view. The menu is distinguished and flexible but presentation is definitely the Belvedere's strong point, for which they invariably score a triple A. Think in terms of £50 for a good lunch for two with wine. The location can be tricky by car. I recommend instead a walk through Holland Park, splendid in the summer and good for digestion afterwards. PS for aspiring alcoholics, they have 92 varieties of malt whisky on offer.