15 JUNE 1985, Page 41

Susan Crosland

So long as you're unconcerned to move on to bed or something, La Croisette (in a Fulham Road byway) beguiles, not least if you yearn to eat out on a Sunday. Taciturn Frenchmen serve at their own pace, so go there only with people whose conversation is enjoyable for three to four hours. If your French is faultless, you can show off by inducing the waiter to smile. All those beautifully presented courses —£18 a head and marvellous value if you eat the lot — suit dinner better than lunch unless you have Gallic digestion. Knock-out seafood. Possible to have an isolated table. Should you fall down the narrow spiral staircase, St Stephen's Hospital is 300 yards away.