15 JUNE 1996, Page 28

A trencherman too

Sir: Anne McElvoy seems to have misread the expression on Peter Mandelson's pinched white cheeks as I interviewed him over dinner at Interlude de Chavot last February CI danced with a man', 25 May). He was pale because he'd eaten nothing all day. Who wouldn't be? But he soon made up for it as chef Eric Chavot whipped up


one marvel after another. Wood pigeon with a dauphinois Pithiviers, followed by roast woodcock flambe on a crostino of innards, foie gras, brandy and shallots. Then the Chevvy-sized cheeseboard, all washed down with a substantial bottle of Alain Grillot's Crozes Hermitage 1993.

From Ms McElvoy's description, I'd say Labour's front-bench civil service spokesman feasts with quite the same gusto as he does the rock-and-roll. And if he fin- ishes dinner with a cup of hot water and lemon, that's probably only so he can go on to dance the night away.

Fiammetta Rocco Telegraph Magazine, 1 Canada Square, London E14