16 AUGUST 2008, Page 47

Familiar Wilderness Liz Dimmlich reveals why the Falkland Islands are

a must-visit destination for any lover of wild places Step off the plane at Mount Pleasant International airport and you would be forgiven for thinking your flight had been diverted to the Highlands of Scotland. In reality you’re 8,000 miles away, on the second largest island in the Falklands archipelago – a collection of more than 740 islands and islets in the notorious South Atlantic Ocean.

Just 300 miles off the coast of Patagonia, the Falklands are as close to the South Pole as London is to the North. At the height of summer the Islands are bathed in more than 15 hours of sunshine each day, and it’s not uncommon for temperatures to reach the low 20s when the breeze drops to a ruffle. The Islands are just 2-days sail from Antarctica, and make an ideal preor post-Antarctic cruise destination.

The Falklands are warmer than London in winter as well, and it’s this distinct seasonality that makes the Islands a haven for migrating species like penguins, albatross, whales, seals and sea lions – many travelling for thousands of miles to reach their summer breeding grounds along the coasts.

What the Islands lack in terms of man-made attractions is more than made up for by the sheer breadth and diversity of wildlife on display. There are more than 225 species of identified birds (two endemic), and 14 species of regularly sighted marine mammals. When conditions are right, visitors can bear witness to some titan clashes between the species – the most spectacular of which is the taking of young elephant seals by killer whales from the beaches of Sea Lion Island. If blood sport isn’t your thing, the serenity and isolation afforded by destinations such as Volunteer Point, and Saunders, Carcass, and Pebble Islands will leave an indelible mark on the traveller’s soul. Many visitors return over the years, revelling in the unspoilt simplicity of the Islands.

A typical week-long itinerary will include one to two days in the capital (Stanley), and several outer-island visits using the Falkland Islands Government Air Service (FIGAS). Stanley is a charming collection of brightly coloured houses splashed along a postcardpretty harbour. The town also bears marks of home that will delight – red phone boxes, English-style pubs, and even a parade for the Queen’s birthday.

Those after a taste of the countryside can choose from a handful of highly experienced and accredited local driver guides. These men and women colour historical events and landscapes with their own life experiences – adding a unique dimension to their tours. Come prepared though – driving in the Falklands is far removed from the smooth motorways and country lanes of the UK. You can expect anywhere up to 2.5 hours of gravel and off-road driving to reach your chosen destination. That said, the end result is always worth it – huge panoramic views (usually on the coast), and unparalleled access to some of the rarest, most unspoilt wildlife in the world. Worthy of a visit by any lover of wild places.