16 FEBRUARY 2008, Page 24

English delicacy

Sir: In his splendid, appetite-inducing piece on food (And another thing, 9 February), Paul Johnson forgets one great English delicacy — the truly magnificent chip butty. As a young, penniless reporter I virtually lived on these tasty wonders.

For the very best results use extremely soft, white bread. Then butter liberally (unsalted French butter is the best). Line up six chewy chips and then douse with either HP Brown Sauce or, better still, Daddies Sauce. The secret is to let the butter and sauce soak into the bread.

This should be accompanied by very strong, workmen’s-style tea (none of that sissy Earl Grey). Ah — food and drink for the gods.

Paul Callan

London SW10