17 JULY 1993, Page 43

First get your larding needle LilifiLJP 1 1..."..„.4 4111 LALJ THE Oratory Fete was

a huge success and made more money than ever before for the church's restoration funds. I won nothing as usual, and the £1,000 was won by a banker of means, wouldn't you know. We have another one this Saturday (the 17th), the Westminster Cathedral Summer Fair run by the Friends of the Cathedral in the grounds of the Choir School just behind the great building. It runs from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., so pop along if it is handy. Thursday is the feast of St Bonaventure who might be considered the patron saint of washing- up, which he was doing when summoned by Pope Gregory X to become cardinal-bishop of Albano. He finished the job.

During that really hot weather two weeks ago, I thought to make the cold, jellied ver- sion of that great dish of beef which uses silverside, top rump or topside. I think the fresh silverside or rump is best, as the top- side tends to get shreddy.

Boeuf a la mode

3-4 lbs fresh silverside (or the others) 4 oz fat pork back or bacon 1 large onion, chopped 2 lbs carrots 4 pig's trotters 2 fluid oz brandy 'h pint red wine 2 crushed cloves of garlic bouquet of bay leaves, thyme and parsley beef stock or veal salt, pepper and oil The meat is best made into a longish roll, and if you have a kind butcher ask him to lard it with the pork fat, otherwise cut the fat into strips and insert lengthwise into the meat with a larding needle or by making long stab wounds and pushing the fat in with a skewer. This prevents the meat get- ting dry within.

Brown the beef with the onion in a little oil, transfer to a large casserole, heat the brandy in the used pan, scraping any bits into it, set on fire and pour flaming over the beef. Add the wine, tuck the trotters round the meat with the garlic and the bou- quet of herbs tied in a bunch, plus 1/21b of the carrots, sliced. Cover with beef stock. (If you must use cubes use 'Just Bouillon' made by Kallo, which have no artificial additives).

Bring to simmering point on top of the

stove, cover with foil and the lid and place in the lower part of a preheated oven at the lowest possible temperature for four to five hours, depending on the size of the joint; a 3 lb piece should be done after four hours. It must be very tender when pierced.

Remove the meat from the casserole and reserve wrapped in foil to keep moist. Remove the pig's trotters, which can be used for pieds de porc panes (bread- crumbed and grilled). Strain the stock and season to taste. When cool put into the refrigerator to chill, then you can clear all the fat off with ease.

Cook the rest of the carrots, sliced diago- nally for charm, in more beef stock with a dessertspoon of sugar. Strain and cool. The jellied stock must now be melted but not at all hot, so when you see that it is half liquid turn the heat off and stir until no globules remain. Place the de-stringed meat into a deep oval dish in which you have made a dainty arrangement with the carrots at the bottom, pour the melted stock over all, it should cover the meat. Return to the refrigerator to chill until set.

When ready to serve, turn out on to a suitable oval platter and sprinkle with a lit- tle chopped parsley. It looks magnificent with the pattern of carrots shining through the dark amber jelly which will be stiff as cheese. Cut into slices and serve with a salad. If you must have a hot potato put it on another plate or it will damage the jelly.

With all the summer berries at their peak try this Italian pudding for a little change to cream with everything.

Almond cream with berries

2 lbs mixed strawberries, raspberries, red- currants etc.

4 tablespoons orange or lemon liqueur 1 lb cream cheese or ricotta 8 oz caster sugar 4 tablespoons ground almonds (fresh is best) Beat the cheese and sugar until creamy in a processor or by hand, then gradually beat in the almonds and the liqueur. Place in a mound in the middle of a large dish and surround with prepared fruits. Maybe a few tiny mint leaves for decoration.

Jennifer Paterson