17 JUNE 1960, Page 38

Wine of the Week

ONE thing I can't understand about Americans is their habit of making dry martinis fiendishly strong — at least four and usually more of gin or vodka to one of vermouth —and then letting melting ice turn them into sodden mawkishness. Whereas the mixture need be no stronger, or more expensive, than the old original two of gin to one of ver- mouth (this is the true dry martini: ordinary martini is half-and-half), so long as ice is kept out of it. I have even given Americans dry martinis made of three of gin to two of vermouth, and been congratulated on their strength and flavour! I had simply taken care not to dilute with melting ice. The drink should be cooled, - and kept cold, either by standing the jug in a bowl of ice, or making it in one of those German jugs (expensive) sold at Fortnum's, or one of those Italian carafes (cheap) sold at most depart- ment stores, which have a separate container for the ice, keeping the contents cold but undiluted.

Some people like a dash of bitters to a dry martini, and—why not, and nobody needs to shake the mixture. Cocktail shakers are for drinks needing ingredients that are hard to blend— sugar, cream, fruit juices, and syrupy liqueurs. To make a great to-do over shaking a drink that only needs a stir is merely showing off.

CYRIL RAY