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CUBAN CIGARS

,SPLCTATOR WINE CLUB

T: 020 7730 1700

W: www.tomtom.co.uk E: tom@tomtom.co.uk

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THE Spectator Wine Club has for some years now had a most agreeable arrangement with Robin Yapp of Yapp Brothers in Mere, Wiltshire. I think that it must be the quality of the air and the beautiful surroundings that enable him to select seriously good French wines for us and then knock large sums of money off his list price to the great benefit of Spectator readers. I hope you will find that this offer is no exception — indeed, in my view, Robin Yapp has excelled himself.

The first of the white wines is the Saumur 1999, Cave des Vignerons de Saumur'). This cheerful wine from just south of Saumur is a straightforward, unadulterated dry Loire Chenin Blanc from a pioneering cave cooperative. The cave, I understand, covers nine kilometres of tunnels and gal- leries beneath the vineyards. These give ideal conditions for the making and matur- ing of the wines. It is clean and crisp with a slight acidity, making an excellent mouthful. At a list-price saving of £9 a case it is clearly a superb summer buy at £4.50 a bottle.

In the Montlouis, Domaine des Liards 1997(2), produced by Michel and Laurent Berger, Robin Yapp has fulfilled every wine merchant's ambition for an offer like this: to offer readers a lesser-known wine of a quality that belies a relatively modest pur- chase price. This wine, the product of a par- ticularly fine vintage, was loved by the panel. We rated it highly with its attractive golden colour, good nose and fine taste. Again, our hero has knocked a significant amount off his list price and at £6.25 a bot- tle this is well worth trying.

My final white, the Sancerre, Clos les Perriers 1999,(3) was, everyone agreed, exceptional. The 1999 is the 30th vintage of Les Perriers that Robin Yapp has shipped from the Vatan family and he feels that this is as excellent as any. The wine, I thought, delivered at every level and the panel really raved about it. With a £23.40 reduction per case this is extremely well priced at £8.25 a bottle and is highly recommended.

Now for the reds. Having recovered from the shock of an over-gaudy label, the panel really took to the C6teaux de la aze 1996.(4) I think this is the real stuff: com- plex, jammy and full of rich southern spring fruit. You should decant it to avoid having to look at the label for any longer than is necessary and, if you do so, your knowl- 'On your left you will see the Serengeti . . . '

Nicholas Soames

edgeable friends are likely to be convinced that this is a far grander and more expen- sive wine. Again, with £15 taken off a case, this is truly exceptional value at £4.75 a bot- tle. Try it and be surprised.

Next, the Cotes du Rhone, Saint Gayan 1998,0) produced by Roger and Jean-Pierre Meffre. The Meffre family have been mak- ing wine in and around Gigondas for 550 years and they have clearly got the hang of it. This is terrific wine: a robust Grenache blend with a tremendous concentrated taste and the colour of dark damson fruits. The 1998 is the finest vintage in the southern Rhone for 20 years, and this really rich and interesting wine will provide fine drinking for at least the next five years. A price cut of £11 is offered per case and at £5.25 a bottle I urge you strongly to try it.

Finally, an entirely different proposition. The Château de Canterrane 1988, Cotes du Roussillono), is only for you if you like mature, typical 'old-world' wine with plenty of bottle age. If you do, this will give you enormous pleasure. It is a rare chance to taste the typical Roussillon red-wine blend of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan and Mourve- dre, which is mature, sensual and quite deli- cious. A bargain at £8.25 a bottle and abso- lutely not to be missed.

Such was the splendid nature of what Robin Yapp sent us to try that we found it difficult to choose. I think each of the wines is very good and I hope you will enjoy them.

The mixed case works out at around £6.20 a bottle. Thank you, clever Mr Yapp.