17 SEPTEMBER 1864, Page 23

A Handlwokfor Travellers in Sicily. With map and plans. (John

Murray.) —The author—for he is something more than a compiler,—of this last addition to the well-known red books is Mr. George Dennis, who has followed the planpeculiar to Murray's handbooks of making them com- lete monographs of, the country described. The traveller may start with Murray only, for he will find all the art knowledge, all the history, and all the science he wants in the very words of the best writers on the subjects. In addition to printed books, Mr. Dennis has had access to a MS, journal written by Mr. Gladstone during his tour in the ipLwa in 1838, and besides three or four shorter extracts we have an animated description of his ascent of Mount Etna, which he seems to have seen under very favourable circumstances. This 5nagnificent island is still almost in a state of nature. There are but nine miles of railway in it, and carriage-roads are still few and far between. The tra- veller must journey over mere tracks on a mule or in a litter, he must carry his own provisions, and, except in the four chief towns, Palermo, Catania, Messina, and Syracuse, there are no decent inns. Vermin and tobacco juice on the walls ; dirt everywhere, on the floors, the towels, the sheets, and the table-cloths ; "a roof that fails to keep out the rain, win- dows that will not close, a. door without a fastening, and a landlord without a conscience ;"—this isnot an alluring picture of away-side tavern. Even. the roads are no longer safe, which the old Bourbon police did manage to keep secure for the traveller. This, however, with its frightful tyranny it was necessary to sweep away, and the new police is not yet up to its work. The introduction of the conscription, too, has sent some of the young men to the mountains ; but they only rob when absolutely starving, and political disaffection to the new regime there is none. On the other hand, climate and sceneryare both beyond measure attractive, and if expense is no great object you have only to put yourself in the hands of a professional guide to secure good food. Still Sicily is hardly to be explored as yet by invalids or ladies. For a country in this condition Mr. Dennis has produced the right sort of handbook, for it is of importance not to be troubled with a lot of books, and the possessor of this..may really dispense with any other. In a literary point of view it is unexceptionable, but a good map of. Sicily is wanting, probably because there is no such thing in existence.