19 JULY 1913, Page 24

THE CHAFING DISH.*

THE readers of this little book must remember that it was• published in New York as well as in London, or they may be- misled, if, when turning the pages at random they see the- heading of "High Tea," into thinking of the drearily indigestible meal that we English associate with this name. On the contrary Miss James talks of it as a " more ambitiouw undertaking" than an after-theatre supper, and the menus she-" gives for it include such things as clam broth, brook trout, - canvas-back duck, ice cream in meringue shells, salads, and' cheese, while the guests can drink " charged water," "Roman • punch," sherbert, or claret, and end with coffee. Tea is not even mentioned, except in the name of the meal, After as short introduction, the " mysteries " of the chafing dish are made clear to the reader. " Even in this day of advanced, domestic science," says Miss James, " there are many house- mistresses who fail to discern utility in this popular device for cooking food. They look askance doubtingly, if not disparag- ingly, at its comely exterior ; shake their heads distrustfully and pass it by as a contrivance altogether too intricate to be serviceable, or too trifling to merit any but a careless'glano0 • But after reading of the delicious; things that can be made in a chafing dish who will not long to possess and use one, for- besides transforming "a cold and antempting dish into some- thing hot and delightful, . it will reduce that brigaboo, the unexpected guest, to a pleasantry." We can now turn to• the recipes with confidence, and though our expectations have been roused to such a pitch that a fragrant smell almost seems to pervade our room (for cannot " luncheon be cooked. and served in parlour, porch, library, or hall ? ") we are not- disappointed. The directions for the previous preparation. (sometimes in the kitchen) and for the actual' cooking are- clearly written and well set out. But why does Miss Jame's- call the dish in which white sauce is mixed with stiffly beaten eggs an omelette P No Frenchman would all it by their.

• The Chafing Dish. By Alice L. James. London : G. P. Putuam's Sona. [3s. 61. net.]

nacre. A third of the book consists of recipes for sandwiches, and very nice most of them must taste and look, particularly if the advice as to "neatness and exactitude in the final pre- parations" is carefully carried out. This engaging little book ends with a few "Miscellaneous Recipes " and " Suggestions" and an index.