SIMON HOGGART
Afew weeks ago we offered the delectable Clos d'Yvigne, the white Bergerac made by Patricia Atkinson. She sent me a charming note saying that she was a Spectator reader and was pleased to see her wine praised in its pages.
This letter prompted me to read The Ripening Sun, her account of the struggle she and her husband had to establish their vineyard. They bought the property in 1990, with no notion of how to make wine beyond the usual vision of merty peasants tromping on grapes. She had almost no French; her husband was ill, and they were out of money. At their first try as vignerons, they made only vinegar. It is perhaps unfair of me to dwell on Ms Atkinson's subsequent triumph and delicious wine in an article devoted to another merchant. But it does illustrate a point I keep banging on about: the best-value French wines are now rarely found in the great and fabled regions, but in the smaller appellations all round the country.
Which brings me to Yapp Brothers and an all-French offer of wines which are subtle and distinguished and which reveal their intense pleasures more slowly than most. But they are well worth savouring. These are certainly not for people who enjoy the kind of wines advertised on Channel 4. The first is a classic of the new Viogniers, made in 2003 by a co-operative in the Ardeche 1. This is a lovely wine, crisp and savoury, with a taste of apricots, nuts, vanilla and even wild flowers. I can't imagine anything nicer with food, or as the perfect pick-me-up after work on one of these hot and sweaty days. Just £6.95.
Cassis is a tiny port and minuscule appellation set in the rough, jagged coastline between Marseilles and Toulon. They've made wine here since Roman times. It's fragrant, fruity yet with hints of herbs and balsam. Almost none of it leaves the area; mostly it's quaffed nearby with bouillabaisse and other fish dishes. Cognoscenti seek it out for their private delectation, and this Clos Ste Magdeleine 20022 is a fine example. At £11.95 it's not cheap, but it is a luscious wine to linger over.
Rose has suddenly taken off here. Partly that's because people like the robust clarets, which are basically Bordeaux reds with the skins taken out early, and are often delicious. But so is this more traditional, floral Provençal pink, the colour of coral rather than Indian restaurant wallpaper. Château des Gavelles 20033 is made by the celebrated half-English winemaker James de Roany, and it too is perfect for long summer days.
Jason Yapp has kindly brought the price of our first red down to under a fiver. It too is from the Coteaux de l'Ardeche co-op, and it's their 100 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon 20034. I'm always on the lookout for a cheaper ver
sion of claret, and this one would cost you half as much again if it came from Bordeaux. Velvety, full-flavoured, and just right for drinking in quantity now.
Up to the Loire. The Saumur Champigny from the Dme Filliatreau 20025 was hugely popular when we last offered it. It is all Cabernet Franc, stuffed with the flavour of
red berries, clean, refreshing, and altogether lovely. Most of it is sold in Parisian restaurants, though Yapps have managed to corner a parcel, and you should get your share. It can be served slightly chilled, and it's perfect with summer grills, with cheese or even a chocolate pud.
Finally the wonderful Dme de la Tour Vieille, Puig Atnbeille 20026 from another minute and ancient appellation, Collioure, near Perpignan. This is what Hachette's almost painfully authoritative wine guide says about Christine and Vincent Cantle's gorgeous wine (while giving it the top rating of 3 stars): 'cherry-red, exudes aromas of blackcurrants and cloves. Lingering fruity notes are accompanied by deliciously soft tannins.' Yum. Even with 45p knocked off, it's not cheap. But it is worth it.
Delivery is free, there's a sample case which is further reduced, and you can take off another 5 per cent if you buy three cases or more.
Previous page
