One hundred years ago The difficulties of the historian are
well illustrated in the discussion in the Times on turtle soup. Sir Henry Thomp- son, who is an eminent authority on food and cooking, as well as surgery, writes to say that turtle soup is `never' made of turtle, but is a conger eel soup, flavoured with bits of turtle, `miscalled' turtle fat. Another authority, 'J. P.,' supports Sir Henry, but does not believe in the conger eel. It is, he says, the com- mon eel which is used for 'stock.' To this the proprietors of the `Ship and Tur- tle Tavern' retort that both are wrong; that they never use any eels, conger or other, but make their soup of the flesh of the turtle, killing eight a day for that purpose. They offer to submit to any test, and are supported by `Restaur- ateur,' who points out that turtle flesh is cheaper than eels. We suppose the truth is that some `turtle soup' is made of tur- tle, and some is not; but the flat con- tradiction of testimony is a curious pro- of of the difficulty of arriving at the truth. The matter is of some importance, because, though it does not matter what aldermen eat, turtle is frequently given to invalids.
Spectator, 17 November 1883
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