1 DECEMBER 1923, Page 14

BRITISH AND AMERICAN TYPICAL FOOD.

[To the Editor of the SPECTATOR.] SIR,—May I politely expostulate with the American gentleman at the Hotel Cecil who seems to imagine, in his letter to you under the above heading, that there is some attraction in a dinner which is " typical " of any one nation ? Around the dinner table we are all internationalists nowadays ; nor do I think that on this score anyone can be fairly charged with lack of patriotism. Take King Edward VII. I frequently had the honour of serving his late Majesty, and I can vouch for the catholicity of his excellent taste.

For soup he preferred the Russian bortsch. His favourite fish was sole cooked in the French way, with cream sauce and mushrooms. Then he would call for a capon roasted on a spit in the old English fashion, rounding off the meal with an Italian pastry, and drinking Burgundy, or Rhineland wine, and a good champagne. That range of menu is one which I find favoured universally by humbler clients here. At this time of day the strictly national type of meal is surely a gesture made by cranks rather than a joy to the gourmet ?—I am, Sir, &c., MANno MEN-TI. The Florence Restaurant, Rupert Street, London, W. 1.