'Beautiful soup

THE FIRST of February: partridge and pheasant shooting ends and salmon sea- fishing begins, if the poor things haven't been destroyed by some disastrous method we seem to be so good at. It is also the feast day of St Brigid, born in Leinster, Ire- land, who became the first abbess of Kil- dare where she was buried on 1 February 523, but her body was later translated to Downpatrick in Ulster where it lies beside that of St Patrick and St Columba. Perhaps the three of them could bestir themselves and purge their land of its present predica- ments. Barm bread is eaten on this day, but I have no idea what it is. Anyone know? Candles for Candlemas tomorrow and can- dles crossed at the throat for St Blaise on the 4th. Sore throats and colds are abound- ing and my thoughts turn to wonderful soups made properly, comforting and nutri- tious for the aching throat or diminished appetite. I don't really like hot soup as a first course, however delicious. I find it too filling, whereas it makes a perfect lunch or supper dish on its own with some good bread. The following soup from America via the Caribbean, and especially Cuba, is wonderfully dramatic to look upon, jet- black with sliced lemon and eggs staring at you.

Black bean soup

1 lb dried black beans

3'/2 pints water for the soaking 11/2oz butter

2 big onions, chopped 2 fat cloves garlic, chopped and crushed 3 sticks celery, chopped Bouquet garni (parsley, thyme and bay leaf) 2-3 lbs beef bones

1 ham bone, if you can get one 21/2 pints proper chicken stock 6 peppercorns, 1 teaspoon salt 13/4 pints of water

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/4 pint brandy, or madeira or medium sherry

1 lemon, very thinly sliced 2 hard-boiled eggs

Soak the beans in the water overnight. Strain and discard the water. Melt the but- ter in a large saucepan and cook the onions, garlic and celery gently until soft but not browned. Add the bouquet garni, beef bones, ham bone, chicken stock, pep- percorns, salt, beans and water.

Bring to the boil for 10 minutes, then reduce to simmering; skim the top, leave partially covered and cook for four hours until the beans mash easily when pressed. Remove the bones and the bouquet garni. Purée the soup through a food-mill; add the lemon juice and the brandy, sherry or madeira. If the soup seems too thick, dilute with some more hot stock. Taste for sea- soning and serve piping hot in warmed soup-plates. Garnish with the lemon slices, chopped hard-boiled eggs and chopped parsley. Delectable.

Now, how about the great life-giving soup of Italy, a thick soup of many vegeta- bles with many different versions, some- times including rice, sometimes pasta? Here is the one favoured in Milan.

Minestrone alla Milanese

2 oz unsalted butter 2 oz pancetta (unsmoked streaky bacon) 3 onions, sliced 4 carrots, diced 2 celery sticks, diced 5 oz borlotti beans, soaked overnight 2 medium courgettes, diced 4 oz French beans, trimmed and diced 4 oz shelled peas

7 oz savoy cabbage 31/2 pints meat stock 12 oz potatoes

8 oz fresh or tinned tomatoes Salt and pepper 6 oz Italian rice 3 oz freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

Try to buy the real pancetta: it has a fine, distinctive flavour. Melt the butter in a large, heavy saucepan or earthenware pot. Cook the pancetta and onion gently for five minutes, add carrots and celery. After three minutes, add the borlotti beans, stir for a further five minutes, then in go the courgettes, French beans and shelled peas. After a further five minutes, stir in the sliced cabbage until it is coated with the fat. Pour in the stock, add potatoes (peeled and halved), tomatoes, salt and freshly ground pepper to taste. Bring the soup to the boil, reduce to a very slow simmer, cover and cook for about three hours. If the potatoes need it, take them out, mash them and return to the soup. Check the seasoning. Add the rice and cook until al dente (about 12 minutes, but test). Stir in four tablespoons of the Parmesan cheese and hand-pound the remainder separately.

The minestrone alla Genovese has a large tablespoon of pesto sauce added before serving.

Jennifer Paterson