1 OCTOBER 1904, Page 17

The expedition is already retiring from Tibet. It quitted Lhasa

on September 23rd amidst expressions of goodwill, the aged Regent, in particular, formally blessing Colonel Young- husband for his goodness in sparing the monasteries. It is supposed that the Chumbi Valley will be reached by October 25th, when the force will be practically within our own dominion, as the valley is to be retained until the indemnity is paid. Before its departure, the correspondent of the Times was permitted, by the influence of the Arnhem, to enter the Cathedral, or Holy of Holies, of Lhasa. It is a building full of courts and ancient chapels, each with its idol, and all greasy with the stains of the butter that for ages has been burnt before their shrines. In the centre of all, amidst a gloom dispersed only by the golden lamps fed with butter, sits the gigantic golden statue, believed to have been miracu- lously carved, of Gautama, the founder of Buddhism, not with the well-known conventional face, but with that of a boy Prince, such as Gautama, was before he turned reformer. The statue, which is known to have existed in the seventh century, wears a huge golden crown, and is hung with heavy necklaces of jewels. Above it is carved the legendary Bird of Garuda, and behind it stand giant statues, almost formless, but throwing the central figure into strong relief. The whole scene evidently made a profound impression on the corre- spondent, who believes that he is the first European, or even spy, ever admitted into the inner shrine, the few previous accounts which exist being incorrect, and probably based on hearsay.