20 MAY 1960, Page 34

Wine of the Week

AT a luncheon given the other day by the directors of 130111 Brothers in their immemorial house in St. James's Street. I was offered, and I much en; joyed, a white Bordeaux tlin tasted something like a white burgundy and smelled a great deal like a ht)cl'' This was Le Fleuron Blanc de Chateau Loubens' result of an attempt to make a. white Bordeaux drier than the usual Graves which, though classed as a dry wine, is nothing like so dry as a white burgundy. Although it smells like a German or an Alsatian riesling, Le Fleuron Blanc is toad; from the same grape as many other sweeter and less fragrant Bordeaux, the seminal, but the grapes are gathered about a week before the mail' vintage date for the region, when they have a little less sugar than would be usual for a Graves. This is not a cheap wine—it is shipped in bottle' and Berry's sell it at 16s. But it is a wine for the amateur of the out-of-the-ordinary, and a very pleasant and refreshing one, too. We drank it the other day with gulls' eggs, before the claret an the lamb, and I found it an uncommonly agree' able opening to a May luncheon. I never have believed that stuff about eggs not going With wine: those eggs did. CYRIL RAY