SPECTATOR WINE CLUB

Modest indulgence

Auberon Waugh

THERE are three old favourites in this Corney & Barrow offer, with the curious fact that all three are cheaper than they were when last offered in July, and spectac- ularly cheaper than they were last Novem- ber. I cannot explain this, unless there is some truth in all the lies about a 'strong pound'. The real explanation may be that whereas classic French wines are now unaf- fordable for most Britons except a tiny majority of Railtrack shareholders, the good but relatively unknown wines of France have actually come down in price. Without the port(,), this offer would aver- age at under £5 the bottle delivered, against £5.94 in July and £7.10 in November, but I refused to exclude the port because it is utterly delicious, and I think it may be my great mission in life to persuade my fellow countrymen to drink more tawny port. This is made easier by the famous Brett-Smith Indulgence by which Londoners can knock

£6 a case off any order for two cases or more; those living outside London can knock £6 a case (50p a bottle) off any order for three cases or more.

Corney & Barrow's managing director, Adam Brett-Smith, inspirer of the interna- tionally acclaimed Indulgence, may have experienced some religious awakening. His famous 1998 white Bergerac La Combe de Grinou(0, which we offered for £5.15 in July, now appears, better than ever, at £4.90 the bottle or £4.40 discounted against a list price of £5.46. It might be sensible to buy several cases, as this is a lovely drink at any hour of the day or night.

Vlottenburg's Sauvignon Blanc from Stellenbosch(2) is a new discovery. Without any of the aggressive qualities of many colonial Sauvignons, including some of the now overpriced New Zealanders, it is unmistakably a high-class wine and very pleasant to drink. At £5.15, reduced from £5.76 on the catalogue, it is well priced. At £4.65 on the Indulgence it is a bargain.

Now for the reds. I was pretty enthusiastic about the Domaine de la Jonction(3) when I introduced it in July. Now I can only rave about it. With many of the qualities of Aus- tralian Shiraz, it is much higher class, and, at £4.02 the bottle (reduced from £4.47 list price), it is a stupendous bargain. At £3.52

on the Brett-Smith Indulgence, it passes belief. This is a seriously good table wine and I am proud to have discovered it. Unfor- tunately, stocks are limited and it would be well to order soon. If they run out, punters may decide to spend their pittances on our even older friend, the Domaine de Saissac Cabernet Sauvignon(s), instead. It is only slightly more expensive, at £4.28 the bottle (f3.78 on the Indulgence).

The Château de Couprat 1995(5), from Fronsac, is a new arrival on the scene. It is noticeably more elegant than the preceding two wines, if a touch less beefy than the Jonction, but is the sort of wine one would not be ashamed to serve to a minor member of the royal family at luncheon. Fronsac has always been severely underrated, in my view. Taste and smell proclaim the 70 per cent Merlot, a wonderful fruit, while the cheerful colour is probably making some other state- ment about the proprietor's chances of mak- ing a lot of money from what is truly a mag- nificent vintage. After much weeping, Brett- Smith reduced its price from £6.97 to £6.27 (f5.77 on the Indulgence).

Finally, Corney & Barrow's beautiful ten- year-old tawny, which is quite unlike any other in the genre — less dry, less brown and noticeably brighter. I found it a revela- tion, something to drink at all hours of the day and night in any circumstances and any company. Spectacularly reduced from £14.98 to £13.48 (£12.98 indulged), it is still not a cheap drink, but what the hell, we have got to get through this ghastly Millen- nium somehow.

ORDER FORM SPECTATOR WINE CLUB

do Corney & Barrow Limited 12 Helmet Row, London EC1V 3TD Tel: (0171) 251 4051 Fax: (0171) 608 1373

Price No. Value

While I. La Combe de Grinou 1998, AC Bergerac 12 hots £58.80'

2. Vlolienburg Sauvignon Blanc 1999, Stellenbosch 12 bogs 1'61.80.

Red 3. Domaine de la Jonction Syrah 1998 Vin de Pays d'Oc 12 hots £48.24' 4. Domaine de Saissac 1997, Cabernet Sauvignon, tin de Pays d'Oc 12 boa 51.36* 5. Chateau de Couprat 1995, Fronsac 12 bogs £75.24.

6. Carney & Barrow ten-year-old Tawny Port 12 bots £161.76* Mixed 7, Sample case, two bottles of each 12 boss £76.20'

Sub-total Less deduction TOTAL (Cheque enclosed)

Please send wine to: Own name & address, if different: NAME NAME ADDRESS ADDRESS POSTCODE POSTCODE TELEPHONE TELEPHONE Prices include VAT and delivery on the British mainland. Payment should be made either by cheque with the order, payable to Spectator Wine Club, or by MastercardNisa, details of which may be tele- phoned or faxed. This offer, which is subject to availability, closes on 21 December 1999.

MASTERCARD/VISA NO EXPIRY DATE SIGNATURE 'Deduct £6 per case for total orders of two cases or more in the London area, three cases or more elsewhere on

line British mainland.