21 OCTOBER 2000, Page 45

Expensive Indulgence

From Sir Kenneth Warren Sir: Our dearly beloved Soames of The Spectator Wine Club writes — rightly well of the 1996 claret vintage (9 Septem- ber). Then he tempts us, with unholy Indul- gences, to a 1997, even better, he claims, at a wallet-searing price of £15.10 a bottle.

Would that his duties in elegant cellars could spare him to stroll with me under the hot Provençal sun along the dusty road to the local supermarket. For there, awaiting him, are 1996 and 1997 from Pomerol at £6.85, château bottled.

Les Issambres, France