22 APRIL 1960, Page 38

Wine of the Week

IN the 1960 Michelin, just out' there are only ten three-star restaurants in the whole of France, as against eleven last year. Mere Brazier, at the Col de la Luere, a dozen miles from Lyons, has been taken a peg. But she still has two stars, and the

area within thirty miles of Lyons is still thicklY , studded with stars: this is the true belly of France.

The wines quoted as specialities of the various eminent houses here are chiefly Beaujolais, usually listed under their commune names: Morgon, Brouilly, Fleurie and Julienas. These are wines to drink young, and they are not ex" 1 pensive. I have mentioned Harveys here before as always having a good list of these wines, II between 9s. and 13s.: my nap selection is their 1957 Fleurie, 'La Fiertd,' at I Is. 3d. I hope you have something as good to eat with it as you still get at Mere Brazier, lost star bOtWithStarlding•