SPECTATOR WINE CLUB
Grumblers should trust me
Auberon Waugh
Afunny little offer this time, all French but no claret and nothing, indeed, from Bordeaux. I have a terrible feeling that as the delicious 1990s disappear from the market, we are going to use less and less claret in these offers. With rotten 1991s, pretty feeble 1992s (although there are decent 1992 white Bordeaux), disappoint- ing 1993s and news of a 1994 wash-out, we will have to be scrabbling around the French regions, Third World and former colonies for our pleasures.
All the wines in this offer, except the first, come from the reliable, well-priced stable of Pierre Andre, familiar to Spectator punters from previous offers. Those who detect a slight rise in prices must blame our murder- ously incompetent Government for the low value of the pound against the franc — lower than it has been at any moment in my life- time, I think. These are quite simply the best prices obtainable, and I can't see things get- ting any better while the Chancellor refuses to follow my advice in any direction.
The Coteaux du Giennois(t) are an entirely new area in my experience. Bal- land-Chapuis is universally acclaimed the best producer in this tiny patch of the Loire north of Sancerre, once known as the Cotes de Gien, but as the whole area includes only 74 acres of white grapevines, often messed up by spring frosts, we may be excused if we have never heard of it. In 1992 the spring frosts must have kept their distance, and the result is a revelation. This deliciously light wine with its strange guava fruit smell makes a beautiful and unusual aperitif. The grape is sauvignon, although there may be a little chenin in it — this is allowed — but the wine could scarcely be more different from its southern neigh- bours at Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume. The price of £5.95 seems extraordinarily reason- able for its location and difficulty of pro- duction, and very cheap for a new high- class wine experience. The grumblers, as I think of those who hope to, re-order from the sample case, might be well advised to trust me on this occasion and buy a whole case. First-class light white wines are rare these days, and 1 doubt we shall see this one again in a hurry.
The reds need less explanation. In 1992 the Domaine de Castelas(2) produced a bright ruby wine with a slightly tannic nose, but a good, clean, light, fruity taste in which one panellist claimed to detect touches of cedar. Nothing nasty or aggressive in this pleasant flavour, a good drinking wine with any food at £4.95. People have been singing the praises of 1993 Beaujolais, but nothing in my tasting experience confirms such optimism. This smooth, light 1992 Brouilly from the Domaine de Montbriand(3) is easy drinking with light food or as an aperitif which one could drink in vast quantities, although the price of £6.05 the bottle might inhibit this function. It would slip down quite nicely after dinner, too.
Not everybody will like the 1990 St Joseph Les Vallieres(5). Not many people really like the taste of young syrah, but this amazing black wine, the colour of boar's blood, has the density and concentration of a top-class Hermitage. Sweet and heavy now, it will develop new tastes and greater complexity as it dries out with age. Or should do. It is a bit of a freak, like some of the 1989 Loires. My guess is it will be beginning to show its quality at the turn of the century and be acclaimed as miraculous by 2015. Anyone for a flutter at £7 a bottle?
The Auxey Duresses(5) 1991 is a thor- oughly decent middle-weight Burgundy from a year which was quite a bit better in Burgundy than it was in Bordeaux. The price of £7 is fair. It was a bit green about the edges and adolescently fruity when first tasted six months ago, but has come on like the proverbial Essex girl since, then. I should guess that in ten months time it will have opened up and settled down to a period of serious attractiveness which will last, like the Essex girl's, for about 18 months.
The Savigny premier cru aux Clous(6) from the famous year of 1990 is quite another proposition. It is a strong, smooth wine with strong, clean tannin and fruit in perfect balance and will last for ages, but it is so pleasant to drink now that I hesitate to advise on how much it will actually improve. These new Burgundies have scarcely been around long enough for us to judge their aging potential. But as these new-style Burgundies go, it is very high- class indeed, without any of the jammy con- centration of the DRC grands ems, a fine example of the Savigny premier cru at its best. Anybody who knows anything about Burgundy prices will know that £9.70 is a very good price indeed. The mixed case works out at £6.78 the bottle. Blame Mr Lamont, Mr Major and Mr Clarke.
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