23 JUNE 1973, Page 4

Sir: To cook a good meal is difficult. To cook

a great meal is well nigh im possible, and certainly not an achieve ment come by intentionally. And given that most meals described as great are probably little better than good, and most meals described as good probably less than good, should one re sign oneself to an eating life where even the good meal will prove the exception? You will have recognised by now the opening of PopTalmer's book review in last week's Spectator transposed into terms which illustrate its foolishness.

I cannot see you succeeding, but you might at least try to spell slowly out to Mr Palmer the difference between reviewing books and the Top Ten. Perhaps you could start by suggesting to him an approach rather more intelligent than the "this is less than good, this is good, but that is grrrreat " line he appears to think adequate. A little hint about the existence of non-hierarchical systems of judgement might help a bit too. But I am deeply pessimistic. I think it a certainty such as Juliette never dreamt of that Mr Palmer will not be able to convert himself into even a poor man's Waugh.

Before parting company with him, however, you owe him his second chance. Can we agree to put him on probation until the fumes have shown signs of clearing from his poor poppy head? I am willing to stand some kind of surety, but only for two more weeks.

Then, your honour, justice must be done.

W. F. Drynan 9 Sidney House, Church Street, Littleover, Derby.