Living is easy •

NOTHING MUCH doing on the feast scene today but some corkers coming up: St Philip, founder of the Oratory, on 26 May, with the Mozart Mass in C (Spatzenmesse) being sung in the evening, followed on the 27th by St Augustine of Canterbury and the Ascension of Our Lord on the 28th, which will probably bring forth a rash of Anglican denials that it actually happened. There is a custom in 'a Florentine church, I think, of releasing a dove to fly upwards in memory of the Ascent and as all eyes follow its flight there is also a notice hanging high and printed clear: BEWARE PICKPOCKETS.

I have had a cri de coeur from the great and good Kenneth Wagg in Scotland for a receipt called Drumkilbo Eggs. I have searched high and low, asked every cook at the Glenfiddich Awards to no avail, so if you have ever eaten it please let me know. It is made with hard-boiled eggs, lobsters, anchovies and other delicacies. Sounds all right.

The asparagus is with us for its only too short stay — the real British sort, which I still think has the best flavour, really needs nothing, but good melted butter or hol- landaise but if you have a few stalks over these little tarts from the Hungry Monk are exciting little first courses or supper dishes.

Asparagus and smoked salmon tarts

8 oz of rich shortcrust pastry 6 oz of smoked salmon 6 good size spears of asparagus 1 whole egg 1 egg yolk "4pint of double cream "Tint of milk A few sprigs of fresh dill Salt and freshly ground black pepper

You need six little tart tins with loose bottoms, 4 inches in diameter and 1"4inches deep. Roll out the pastry on a floured hoard, line the tins with it. Line the pastry with grease-proof paper and a layer of dried beans or rice, place on a baking tray and bake in a pre-heated oven at Gas 6, 400F, 205C until the visible edges of the pastry are just turning gold. Remove the paper and the beans or rice and cook again until the base is just crisp. Remove from the oven, cool and remove from the tins carefully in readiness for their fillings. Reduce the heat of the oven to Gas 5, 375F, 190C.

Trim off one inch from the base of the

asparagus spears. Steam or poach until ten- der, keeping the heads out of the water. Drain. Cut 3 inches off the tips and reserve for decoration. Roughly chop the remain- der. Finely chop the smoked salmon and the dill. Put the eggs in a bowl with the milk and cream, whisk well. Tip in the smoked salmon and dill, season with salt and pep- per. Place the chopped asparagus in equal parts on the base of the pastry cases and then equally fairly pour in the salmon and egg mixture. Put an asparagus tip on each. Place on a baking tray and cook for 20 to 30 minutes until set and golden on top. These are delicious served with watercress or, if you are feeling energetic, make a sweet pepper sauce by cooking three de- seeded, finely chopped pimentos in a cov- ered saucepan with a splash of white wine vinegar, a glass of dry sherry and a little

water. Cook until soft, season with salt and pepper, sieve or whizz and serve warm. My thanks to Nigel and Sue Mackenzie.

I have found a lovely egg and vegetable loaf from the Loire in Hilaire Walden's new book. A very good summer dish, for a main course or part of a buffet, and perfect for picnics, hot, cold or tepid.

Pounti

2 leeks finely chopped 1 oz chopped parsley

4 oz chopped spinach leaves

1 cabbage leaf finely chopped

4 oz salt pork or green bacon finely chopped 3 oz plain flour 4 eggs beaten 1 pint of milk

Salt and pepper

Pre-heat the oven to Gas 4, 350F, 180C. Mix the vegetables and bacon in a bowl. Put the sieved flour into another bowl and make a well in the centre. Gradually add the eggs one at a time and the milk to make a smooth batter. Season well and stir into the vegetable mixture. Butter a loaf tin 9 x 11 inches approximately. Pour in the mix- ture and bake in the oven for 50 to 60 min- utes until just set in the centre. Leave to rest for about 10 minutes, then turn out onto a warm dish if to be eaten immediate- ly or, if you are taking it on a picnic, best to leave it in its tin. Nice with good bread and tomatoes.

Jennifer Paterson