23 OCTOBER 1959, Page 34

Wine of the Week

1 CANNOT understand the curr prejudice against sweet white win True, I couldn't drink them with fi but then I wouldn't drink a dry wh burgundy with a luscious, juicy p or a crème brOlee. What better IN such dishes than a rich Sauternes, perhaps a late-gathered hock? At this ye epic Lebegue tastings there was an impost show of the most aristocratic of all such wi -Château d'Yquem-and the Marquis de Saluces himself, the owner of that most fam of all vineyards, to say what high hopes had of this. year's gathering. The 1957 and 1 Yquems are not bottled yet, so it will be some ti before we taste this year's, which I expect to b pretty fine price when it reaches the wine chants' lists. But Yquem is not the only fine s wine : eleven premiers crus of Sauternes and sac rank immediately after Yquem, usu about half the price. I tasted with pleasure in Lebegue cellars a 1955 Château Rieussec, wh was a good example of the kind-full-bod fragrant and richly sweet. It is ready to drink 11 but will keep. My own advice would be to away the 1955 (which Downmans of Dean Sir have at 19s.), while drinking the 1953, still tainable from Loeb of Robert Street, at 24s. right, I known that this isn't cheap. But half dozen people can share a bottle of Rieussec their fruit after dinner, which is a mere four apiece-less than you might spend a head Oil round of rubbish in a boozer.