23 SEPTEMBER 1843, Page 2

ettteen Victoria'd Uisiit to tbe fetberlanItsi.

THE time of the travellers has been well employed in Belgium ; for the people cooperated with the Royal host to give Queen Victoria and her consort such a reception as they will not readily forget. Bruges was the place of visit on Friday. The King and Queen of the Bel- gians, accompanied by the Queen of England and Prince Albert, the Prince and Princess of Hohenlohe, Lord Aberdeen and Lord Liverpool, and the several suites, left the Palace of Ostend at noon, for the railway- station ; and thence departing by a special train, they arrived at the Bruges station about one o'clock. A guard of honour was there posted ; and in the hall of the station were the authorities of the town. The Burgomaster was presented to the Queen and Prince Albert, with whom he exchanged some compliments; and the Commandant was in like manner presented. Queen Victoria was conducted to a carriage and four by King Leopold, and Queen Louise by Prince Albert. Another carriage and four conveyed the chief persons of the English suite ; the rest of the party following in three pair-horse carriages. The scene which presented itself to their view was novel and striking in the highest degree. Even the foretaste at the station is interesting- " The line of houses along the side of the railway approaching the station," says the correspondent of the Morning Chronicle, who writes with all the gusto of unqualified and highly-excited admiration, "are mostly of the humbler dam; yet they were all decorated with flags, wreaths, coronets, and garlands of flowers, and some with a regular 'exposition' of such small prints and paint- ings, which are often seen on the inside walls of cottages. A line of wind- mills also, which were suffered to rest for the day, had their vanes embellished with flowers and branches of trees."

But this was nothing to the picture of the town ; which the inhabit- ants, on the previous day, had been advised by the Burgomaster to decorate— "The whole line of streets along which the royal cavalcade was to pass in Its way to the Town-hall, and thence to the various public buildings which were to be visited, was, as it were, roofed in with pieces of new linen, (one of the staple manufactures of the town,) some bleached, some not, some dyed grey, or blue, and all systematically stretched across from window to window at the height of the first floors; inadequate as such materials might be thought to be to such a result, the result was, that when the eye took aperspective view down the streets, the effect was that of a wide-spanned roof of stone, the arches of which, upon some principle of magic, held together in the form of a catenary curve, and which, harmonizing with the ancient architecture of the houses on either aide, seemed to form one long entire gallery. The walls themselves were decorated, in many places literally covered, with festoons, and pillars of varioutmaterials, linens of all the colours in the rainbow, huge yarns ofwonted, immense boughs of trees, thick banks and walls of fir and other evergreens, and foliage of all sorts. Besides these, there were here and there pictures— some very fine ones and of large dimensicns—which had been brought from the interior walla for the occasion ; rich tapestries, which, though relics of anti- quity, had retained their colours and the completeness of their various devices in perfection ; choice specimens of lace ; garlands and huge pots of flowers; articles of plate; in short, every appliance of adornment, natural or artificial, which it would be possible to conceive ; and all so thickly crowded together as to make one complete and continuous picture. Above these were huge flags flying, of all colours and devices, some very ancient and curious, (as for instance one with the cipher C. 7.,' Charles the Seventh, surmounted by a crown,) and which were brought out in striking relief when seen in the intervals of the linen archings above described. The whole was like a scene of fairyland ; and at all the doors and all the windows were smiling and handsome faces, (the women of Bruges, the remains of the ancient Spanish stock, are proverbially the finest in Belgium, and indeed among the handsomest in Europe,) each beaming with its various expression of expectation and curiosity as each newly- come and bewildered stranger hurried to and fro.

"In the street leading into the Place du Bourg, in which is the Maison de Ville, where the royal collation was to take place, an immense triumphal arch was erected, reaching to the top of the adjoining houses, which, I should say at a guess, are sixty feet high, being among the finest in the town, and be- longing to the wealthiest and most distinguished of the citizens. On the side of the Place this arch was admirably painted in imitation of Grecian architec- ture • whilst on the opposite side, that by which it would be approached by the royal cortege, and underneath it, was one rich mass of fir branches ; at the top were tricoloured flags and the British colours, and an inscription, ' Victoria and Albert.' Nothing handsomer or more complete of its kind was ever pro- duced. All round the Place du Bourg were choice hothouse-trees, and a per- fect lure of flags."

The ingenious use of their decorative resources by the good people .f Bruges had its full effect on those whom it was meant to impress-

" The Queen, and indeed the whole of the Royal party, were evidently quite taken by surprise at the first coup d'ceil of the splendid corridor which had been prepared for them ; and I overheard repeated explanations issuing from the royal carriages to the effect that such a sight bad never before been seen. This astonishment only increased as the procession moved on, and the embellishments became more and more rich ; whilst at the same time the cheering of the mul- titude became louder and wilder, extending along the streets and up to the very house-tops. The Queen and Prince Albert stared right and left, evidently overcome ; the King and Queen of the Belgians looked gratified in the ex- treme; Lady Canning and Lady Seymour tried in vain to look demure and courtly ; Lord Liverpool, with up-turned eyes, smiled and peered about him, and smiled again ; and even Lord Aberdeen seemed, just for one moment, to forget the Church of Scotland and the Veto question. As for the people, they were for the moment out of their senses with joy. There was no prancing cavalry flanking the royal carriage, as with us, to shut out the view of the gracious subject of their homage. carriage, unrestrained by any influence but their own good feelings, they rushed and leapt along beside the carriage—shouting, shrieking—with perfect abandon ; and all along, from every crowded window and door-way, handkerchiefs, nosegays of flowers, garlands, branches of trees, were waving to and fro. Then the bands of the various regiments placed along the road played' God save the Queen,' so lustily as if they would drown this triMult ; but in vain, for the tumult drowned even the booming of the cannon hard by and the pealing of countless bells overhead. Then what a rushing and scrambling was there between this multitude and the military as the cortege passed the Place des Armes ; what a climax of excitement as it went under the triumphal arch opposite to the Town-hall ; and then what a triumph for instrumental over vocal music was it, when three full potent bands, all playing away at once in the Place do Bourg, succeeded at last in throwing a somewhat confused version of our fine national anthem upon the ears of Queen Victoria, as she alighted to partake of the hospitalities of the worthy Burgomaster of Bruges!" The interior of the Maison de Ville displayed, with its rich Brussels and Turkey carpeting, hothouse-plants and flags. The reporter got a glimpse of the banqueting-room before the arrival of the guests ; and he mentions a trait of the prevailing kindnes and bonhommie- "It is a handsome apartment of the middle age, about forty feet long, covered with rich crimson velvet paper. The cloth was laying at the time ; and the worthy Burgomaster was in the act of handing over his family plate, and that of some of his friends, to the servants of the King, for the purpose of decking out the table ; at the same time goodnaturedly expressing his regret that he had not more to offer for so august an occasion. I saw, however, some very handsome salvers, plateaux, and candelabra ; and tyre effect of the whole when laid out was, if not royal, truly baronial. The plates were of white porcelain, bordered with gold. • It was not the first time' (as one of the butlers ob- served, in answer to the Burgomaster's apologies on this score) 'that his Majesty had dined off a white plate, et surtout en voyage.' ". Among the invited guests belonging to the town was the Bishop of Bruges, in full canonicals ; and during the repast there was some in- strumental and vocal music. Soon after two o'clock, the Royal party, accompanied everywhere by the same demonstrations of hearty wel- come, went to see the curiosities of the town,—the Eglise du Saint Sang, in which a glass vessel is preserved as containing some of the real blood of Jesus ; a celebrated sculptured chimney in the Palais de Justice ; the Cathedral of Notre Dame ; the Hapital de St. Jean, and the Convent of the Scours Anglais. At five o'clock, the party returned to the railway- station, where they entered the carriages of the special train, amidst one last long cheer. The band played "God save the Queen" once more, and then the "Brabancon,' (the national air of the country,) the spirited and characteristic tones of which mingled with confused cheer- ing, and the sound of cannon as the train glided away. The Palace of Ostend was regained about six o'clock.

Saturday was devoted to Ghent ; which gave its name, in England, to John of Gaunt, and in many Continental countries to that customary article of gentle clothing, gloves—as " gents " in French, "guanti," Italian. The general characteristics of the preparatives were similar to what is described of Bruges-

" The streets from end to end were planted on either side with rows of fir- trees, procured for the occasion, from which festoons of white linen were sus- pended. Flags in profusion waved over head ; those of England and Belgium blending conspicuously on the top of the Cathedral of St. Bavon, on that of the celebrated belfry, and at other public edifices. Several triumphal arches, covered with linen cloth and festooned in different colours, were erected at the entrances to the principal streets. All these arches bore inscriptions; those on one of them illustrated a curious historical coincidence: they ran thus- ' Philippine Hainaut, Reine d'Angleterre, it Gand en 1343,' and on the other side, ' Victoria, Reine d'Angleterre, h Gand en 1843.' "

One difference was, that there was a more plentiful introduction of civic dignitaries; among them the Conseil de la Regence, or Magis- trates, wearing, as part of their official insignia, silk cordons round their necks-

"Charles the Fifth, for some pretended act of lase-majeste in resisting hie arbitrary authority, having beheaded some of the principal offenders, compelled

the Magistrates and heads of guilds to ask pardon on their knees, with halters round their necks, and enacted, in addition, that the Magistrates should always wear halters when they appeared in public. This intended mark of ignominy afterwards became a decoration of honour ; the halter being converted into a silken cord, tied in front in a true lover's knot."

The municipal authorities and the guilds of the town formed a pro- cession for the royal carriages ; which was closed by a troop of cuiras-

siers. The Queen arranged her toilette at the Town-hall, and was

thence conveyed to view the curiosities of the place,—St. Baron, per- haps the finest cathedral in Belgium ; the nunnery of the Beguinage, to the seclusion of which no nun is bound by irrevocable vows, and yet instances of abandoning it are at least most rare ; the Casino ; and the Palais de Justice. The King had wished to give an entertainment at the Town-hall, but the Governor loyally refused to permit that infrac- tion of the privileges of Ghent; and the splendid banquet of fifty covers was provided by the local chief. At half-past three o'clock the tourists

were taken to a concert in the theatre; a magnificent building. Among the pieces performed was one played by a local society of amateurs, comprising an instrumental and choral adaptation of "God save the Queen." During the earlier part of the performance of the air, the audience rose ; but when Queen Louise smilingly said something which made Queen Victoria sit down, the audience sat down likewise. [The Gantois understand courtesy, and courteous licences of the kind, to be reciprocal.] Between the acts of the concert a very curious ceremony was performed, according to a custom of the Gantois, in another room of the same building, the salle de reception, a lofty saloon embellished in the Louis Quatorze style— "At the upper end of it is a dais, on which is a magnificent throne, an an- cient one, said to be that on which the Flemish Counts used to be inaugurated ; surmounted with a magnificent canopy of crimson velvet. Here Queen Vic- toria, being seated, surrounded by her royal relatives and their several officers of state, permitted the good people of Ghent, all dressed in afternoon costume, to press forward to gaze upon their new and welcome guest, even to the very step of the dais, unrestrained by guards or marshalmen of any kind. After waiting a few minutes in this position, during which time many of the prin- cipal personages were pointed out and presented to her by the King, she rose, and taking the King's arm, and followed by the rest of the court, made a slow progress through the thickly-crowded apartment; bowing now and then to those who made way for her, and apparently quite at home in the very novel situation in which she found herself."

After the concert, the party returned to the Hotel de Ville ; and thence, by the railway, to Ostend ; arriving at the Palace about eight o'clock.

The whole of Sunday was passed by the travellers and their host and hostess in strict quiet. Mr. Jessop, the English clergyman at Ostend, performed divine service before Queen Victoria, in a private room.

Early on Monday morning, the King and Queen of the Belgians, with their illustrious guests and the suites, departed by the railway from Ostend for Brussels ; where they arrived by half-past one. The places by which the railroad passed were decorated in the prevailing style ; and even the capital used similar ornaments, sometimes of more splendid materials, though scarcely, it seems, with so good an effect- " The whole length of the way from the railroad, by the Boulevard and the Rue Royale, was planted with fir-trees, sometimes in double rows - and rich draperies, Mostly of crimson and gold, with occasionally some of lighter co. lours, were suspended in front of the balconies of the spacious and elegant mansions which they curtained; from the windows of which also flags floated, some as high as the third and fourth Etages. The walls along the ground-floor were faced with thick hedges of evergreens. At the station-house a pavilion of truly royal splendour was erected, lined and draped with rich purple velvet, with gold ornaments, and furnished with two sofas and four chairs of carved oak, covered with royal velvet, which had been brought from the Palace on purpose. Around was a perfect hale of colours, flanked with rows of fir-trees, planted for the occasion. The approach to the royal pavilion was covered with a spacious carpet, upon which dahlias and other rich flowers were abundantly strewed."

Cannon pealed, and the band of the Guides played the English anthem, as the Royal party alighted. In the pavilion, the King of the Belgians presented the Governor of the province, the Permanent De- putation of the province, the Burgomaster of Brussels, the Sheriffs, and other civic and military authorities. The Burgomaster made rather a long congratulatory address to the Queen ; who smiled graciously at the pauses and curtseyed very low at the end. The party entered their carriages ; which went in procession, amid the troops of the line and of the civic guard that lined the way. The people cheered, but with more restraint than those in the old provincial towns. The cortege entered the Palace at half-past two o'clock. The Grand Dutchess Anna Federowna of Russia, the King's sister, had already arrived. After resting, at five o'clock the whole party attended a concert in the open air among the trees in the Park. They were seated in a pavilion, open in front ; and the orchestra, consisting of the Harmonic Society of the town, was stationed in a polygonal kiosk, open on all sides. A guard of honour was drawn up on one side of the grass-plat before the

pavilion; the other side was left quite free, so as to afford a good view of te Royal audience to the public ; thousands of whom crowded around, and cheered as the orchestra struck up " God save the Queen." For an hour the musicians played several pieces from modern operas ; and then, reentering their carriages, the tourists went to see the Museum and the Town-hall. At eight o'clock there was a banquet at the Palace, covers being laid for sixty-five. The guests entered the saloon in pro- cession-- " The banqueting-room is one of very elegent dimensions, built in white or nearly white wood-work, with Grecian columns along the walls, and some very pretty figures in bas-relief along the upper part of the walls. The table was sumptuously laid out, and there was a perfect blaze of light from the chande- liers and innumerable candelabra. The Queen sat on the right hand of the King of the Belgians; next to her, the Queen of the Belgians; and among those in the immediate neighbourhood on that side were the Pope's Nuncio, Lady Canning, Lord Aberdeen, Lord Liverpool, &c. On the left of the Royal boat was the Grand Dutchess Federowna, and next to her sat Prince Albert. The Queen wore a light silk dress, with the Order of the Garter, and a coronal of red and white roses on her head ; she wore also the ribbon of the Order of' the Garter, and a magnificent suite of brilliants. The Queen of the Belgians was more simply attired: her dress was of very pale blue, and her coiffure pale blue feathers. The fine band of the Guides was stationed in the adjoining room, where they performed in a masterly style at intervals throughout the- past."

After the banquet, the Court proceeded to pass the night at the Palace of Laeken ; and although it was so late, a group of girls were stationed at the Palace to present Queen Victoria with a splendid bou- quet of flowers.

That night Brussels was superbly illuminated, on a generally precon- certed plan. The illuminated temples, triumphal arches, and trans- parencies were countless ; and along the principal streets and boulevards was one continuous sheet of various-coloured lamps, festooned and wrought into many elegant shapes. " The whole Allee-verte up to the Chateau of Laeken was a blaze of light; and about the Park the detices and illuminated arches were truly magical."

At half-past two o'clock on Tuesday, the travellers resumed their route ; leaving the Palace at Laeken, and going by railway to Antwerp. The train halted for a few minutes at Mechlin ; where an immense concourse surrounded the station. The Cardinal Archbishop, the Burgomaster, and other ecclesiastical, military, and civil authorities of the place, paid their respects. A very beautiful corheille of the choicest flowers was presented to Queen Victoria by Mademoiselle Keitelaers, the daughter of one of the Sheriffs, accompanied by a bevy of beautiful young girls between ten and fourteen years of age. At other places along the road were collected knots of villagers ; each headed by its cure, to cheer and salute the passing train.

The concourse was great at the Antwerp station ; and the usual com- pliments were paid by the local authorities as the travellers entered their carriages. They arrived at the Palace in the Place de Mer by about half-past three o'clock ; and soon afterwards the principal per- sonages appeared in a balcony to witness a sight prepared by the good people of Antwerp-

" Having remained a short time in the balcony, the procession of the Giant debauched from one of the avenues leading into the Place de Mer, and moved along the street in front of the Palace ; affording to the Royal party an ad- mirable view of this strange spectacle, the most perfect vestige of the ancient pageants now in existence in any city in Europe. The pageant was exhibited here about three years ago to more than 200,000 spectators, on the occasion of the inauguration of the great statue of Rubens. It consists of a procession in which are two cars ; in the one is seated an enormous figure of a giant, and in another the effigy of a giantess of nearly equal proportions. On an immense platform, on wheels drawn by eight horses, is a whale, about four times as large as the largest fish in the Polar Seas ; and from the head of this animal water is squirted forth amidst the crowd by a Cupid who sits astride the nose of the monster. There are other cars in the procession ; in one of which is the model of a ship, with masts, rigging, &c., with boys climbing the shrouds and managing the sails. As this long train of cars passed before the eyes of the Royal party, our Sovereign Lady the Queen appeared highly amused at the novelty and grotesque display of the whole scene."

That sight over, the visiters went to see the Cathedral of Notre Dame, and the extensive basins constructed at the harbour during the time of Napoleon. Amid the booming of cannon and manning of ships' yards, one sight must have been striking : the Albert and Vic- toria has no yards, but the crew, all dressed in white, were ranged in close rank along the whole edge of the bulwarks and over the paddle- boxes. The tourists passed to the Place Verte, where stands the statue of Rubens. Here a pavilion was prepared for their reception, while an ode was sung by the Harmonic Society of the town, about a hundred voices, without accompaniment. In the evening there was a dinner at the Palace, rather more private than usual ; covers only being laid for twenty-four.

The town and the shipping were illuminated, and there was a display of fireworks.

At one o'clock on Wednesday, the Queen of England and Prince Albert, attended by their suite, and accompanied by the King and Queen of the Belgians, embarked on board the Victoria and Albert ; which im- mediately got under weigh, and proceeded, under a roar of cannon, down the river. At Liefkenshoet, King Leopold and Queen Louise took leave of their guests ; and, entering a royal barge, returned up the river to Antwerp. The yacht went forward on its voyage ; saluted by a royal salute at Flushing, where the Dutch authorities and some English officials stood ready to pay their respects, on the ground of a rumour that the yacht would lie off the town ; which it did not. Salutes continued to be fired by batteries, and shipping, as the yacht and its at- tendant vessels passed, until it stood fairly out to sea.