23 SEPTEMBER 1854, Page 15

BOOKS.

SCOTT'S TRAVELS IN SITSSIL !SI Ix 1850, Mr. Charles Henry Scott, after visits to St. Petersburg, Moscow, and Novgorod, descended the Volga to Astrachan in a vessel of his own, and made a jommey from the Caspian Sea to and through the Crimea. The original notes of his travels were " thrown aside, until the increasing interest about Russia and the

eountries which are the seat of war induced him to reperuse and revise them for the volume before us.

Upon matters closely connected with Russia or the war the book does not throw any new light. The ambition and despotic tyranny of Russia—the systematic care and shill with which ta- , knt of every kind is sought, bought, and trained to her purposes —the unscrupulous cunning and fraud, not only of her diplomacy but of her whole scheme of government—the real opposition to knowledge and commerce, cloaked by s pretended anxiety in their favour—the blasphemous perversion of religion to state purposes—the pervading corruption of her officials of every class and grade, and the wretchedness of her serfs and soldiers, —all these were already well known' although Mr. Scott may give some fresh and striking examples under each head from his own experience. The book, however, was worthy of publication without reference to temporary circumstances. The route traversed was not altogether new, being nearly similar to that of Mr. Oli- phant; still it was not so beaten but that there was room for the ex- perience of another observer. And Mr. Scott is by no means ill quali- fied either to travel or to record his travels. America he has never visited, but he has passed the boundaries of the Old World as known to the andents—" usque Auroram et Gangem”; acquiring as matter of course the habit of bearing patiently the inconveniences which lie cannot remedy, and taking men as he finds them. Ile has the power of instituting comparisons between scenes of natural beauty in different regions, as well as between grades of civilization, or it may be of barbarism, among various peoples ; and his com- parisons are by no means in favour of the Russians, especially of the Russians proper. Mr. Scott too has a sufficient judgment and an animated style—occasionally a little toe ornament but not extreme in its finery. Those passages have probably been added in revising the -original notes for the press, as also some com- ments in reference to existing circumstances.

The narrative begins with a steam-trip from Stockholm to St. Petersburg ; in the course of which our author called at Abe and Heleingfors, and, being delayed by the arts of an innkeeper, he had a little time to look about him and eonverse. Mr. Scott's opinion as to the feelings of the Finlanders is different from that which many of us now deduce from their seeming qui- escence: but Sweden is seemingly quiescent, though few per- sons can suppose her very favourably disposed towards Russia. It is not likely that the Fins will exhibit their feelings in action's while the country is occupied by the Emperor's forces, or indeed till they know whether they are to be permanently protected against the Czar. We had some conversation with educated Fins; and never did we listen to more stirring words of burning hatred towards the oppressors of their country, who are doing everything they possibly can to blot out the memory of their dearest associations and traditions, by curtailing the national litera- ture and restricting education within the arbitrary limits Permitted by -a scrutinizing police, "When Finland fell under the Russian yoke in 1805, the Emperor Alex. ander, overjoyed at the possession of so valuable an addition to his empire, and perhaps feeling that he was dealing with a people who deserved to be treated in a more liberal and generous spirit than the craven slaves over whom he ruled in the full swing of despotism, hastened to confirm the Fins in many of their privileges. They were permitted to guard their constitu- tion,to maintain -the rights of the University, and to enjoy the fullest im- munity in their religion and its worship; a spirit-of conciliation being gene- rally manifested towards them.

"Nicholas has by no means followed out the policy of his brother. It is true he has not always openly attacked these privileges, but he has, never- theless, applied insidiously at the root a slow but cankering poison, the effect of which is already displaying itself in withering blossoms and rotten fruit ; and unless a change shall soon take place, the noble tree itself must

die and fall. •

"It may he asked, What is the use of her, Baltic fleet locked up in the harbour of Cronstadt ? ' The reply is, 'That lying there, audit may be rotting, it is worth fifty thousand men to her; for even in a passive state it is exercising considerable influence over Sweden, Denmark, and Prussia but most especially over the two former. For they know full well, that if it still remain uninjured at the termination of the existing war, it might and probably would be brought against them afterwards on the first favourable opportunity, did they now take au active part in opposing a power as un- scrupulous scrupulous n its acts as it is false and dishonest in its policy.", There are charitable and educational institutions in Russia, 'Lobs. ably managed in themselves, well adapted to strike the mind and ex- cite the admiration of travellers, though charity, or a love of lea lug, is by no means the animating motive of the Goyernment.

These establishments are a means of training children to callingi which neither the people at Inge nor independent establishments (supposing such were allowed to exist) could well accomplish: They also make the Government acquainted with all the talent of the country, and keep it at the Emperor's disposal. The fol- lowing extracts relate to the Foundling Hospital of St. Peters- burg, and the University of Kazan.

-" The Foundling Hospital is one of those gigantic buildings everywhere conspicuous in Petersburg. Within its walla live seven thousand lumen beings, and thirty thousand are supported from its revenues. About six hundred infants, under six weeks of age, were in rows of cradles, ticketed • The Baltic, the Black Sea, and the 9rialea4,0ealezisies Travels in ROSA. • Voyage clown the Volga to Astrachan, and a Tour through Crisis Tartary. By ebiericeneary sent. Tebusitseey Be4sx.:• „ and numbered in the spacious well-kept wards. The day of our visit, eight of those little creatures had arrived before eleven o'clock in the morning. After six weeks the children are sent to the country, and are very often nursed and brought up by their own mothers, who apply for and readily obtain this privilege. At six years of age the girls arc taken back to the in- stitution for education' while the boys are sent to a branch establishment. Several thousand girls are therefore at all times receiving a liberal edu- cation; on the termination of which, they are placed as servants, nurse- maids, or governesses, according to their abilities. One department is de- voted to the orphans of the higher class, who are taught several languages, music, &a The revenues of this immense establishment are more than a million sterling. We were indebted to the politeness of the director, who kindly took us over it, for the above information.

"In a small room were four beautiful children under nine years. This,' said our conductor, is a very interesting group. Until yesterday these children were in the enjoyment of the greatest luxury ; they had servants, carriages, and everything_ which wealth could command : today they go to the country, and will be brought up as peasants ; and the saddest part is, that the boy and eldest girl are quite aware of the change about to take place in their position. When they parted from their mother, who brought them here, the scene was heart-rending ; their agony was more powerful and expressive than I ever before witnessed in children so young.' Their history was short. They were illegitimate; their father, a nobleman of high rank, had died suddenly, leaving them penniless ; and his widow (for he was married) refused to gmnt any funds for their support. • • *

"In the town [of Kazan] are various other public buildings ; a military hospital, an institution established by the present Empress for the education of the daughters of officers at the expense of the state ; a pretty theatre, and amenthly-rooms. The university, of Grecian architecture, is, however, by far the most imposing building in Kazan. A professor of the Oriental tongues is attached to it; and those pupils who display the greatest talent in these languages become objects of special interest to the Government. They are sent to travel in the East, and are even provided with the costumes of the countries in which they sojourn, at the expense of the state, in order that they may acquire the appearance, manners, and bearing of the people. Edu- cated in other points with extreme care, they become the clever agents and- emissaries of the Emperor, holding consular and diplomatic appointments."

From all that "comes out" at intervals it seems clear that the present Czar is the worst of his race in the determination to crush the spirit and energies of men, and even to stifle those arts and accomplishments which other despots have often patronized, if he cannot subdue them to his own purposes. The most vigorous of Liz predecessors, Peter, the two Catheruies, and perhaps Elizabeth, were ambitious, unscrupulous, and innately barbarous enough ; but with their schemes of extended and dreams of universal empire, they combined a sort of Augustan spirit, and patronized art, com- merce, manufactures, and even literature. Communication and commerce, in fact, were Peter's idols. Alexander, in addition to these views, had a leaning to religious, educational, and constitu- tional advancement, though vague and impracticable perhaps. The present Emperor has sternly discarded these larger conceptions of a'. despot's duty-, and centered everything in himself. Dr. Lee, in his lately published Reminiscences, notes how quickly the Bible So- ciety was abolished by Nicholas after his brother's death, and other retrograde steps taken. We have seen in our first quotation how Finnish rights are stifled. Even those undertakings which the greatest despots have patronized, public works of utility, have been postponed by Nicholas to troops and fortifications. The following passage may be recommended to the clients of the Em- peror—the Peace people.

We now reached the embouchure ' of the Kama river, where lay a number of those immense barges, laden with the produce of China and Si- beria shipped at Perm. By floating them down the stream this part of the voyage is accomplished with facility ; but as they were bound to Nijni they now waited for steamers to tow them up the Volga. By the Kama from Penn, the Volga to Tver, and thence by canal to Petersburg, Russia possesses water-communication from the foot of the Ural Mountains to the Baltic Sea. Between Petersburg and Penn, a distance of twenty-five degrees of longitude is embraced; and, taking the circuitous route of the rivers, more than four thousand miles of country must be passed through, independent of that watered by numerous tributaries. " The Caspian Sea is also in communication with the capital by the Volga and the above canal, and this latter river could be united to the lion without difficulty and at small expense ; in which ease the Black Sea would be di- rectly connected by water with all parts of this immense empire. "That the Government should have neglected to take advantage of these natural facilities in a commercial point of view is not astonishing, for there are too many instances of lamentable disregard to the development of the resources of the country and the people to lead one for a moment to suppose that the policy of the Emperor is to foster and encourage them. "Commerce is too great a promoter of civilization. A vast industrial movement in connexion with it would give to greater numbers of the people a certain amount of property, and property in the hands of the masses leads to a watchfulness of the acts of a ruler. The man who has accumulated by the sweat of his brow a little store of wealth, however small, clings to it with a venial fondness. That man is not to be torn from his home to swell the ranks of the army, to be treated like a dog, and sacrificed to an enemy, with- out asking why and through whom all this takes place. This would not be a momentary feeling : the reasoning faculties once imakened, farther in- quiries would be made, and before the test of reason the present system of E.tia would fall.

"All the exports of Russia now consist of raw produce : this is raised without ameliorating the position of the people. The landowners and mer- chants alone profit by it ; and these latter, of the first guild, are nearly all foreigners. There is no class in Russia representing property in contradis- tinetaon to land ; and those nobles who are great landholders have at present lesifinfluence than ever they had; not because their wealth and intelligence have decreased, but because the Emperor Nicholas, through a long reign, has drawn the clergy closer to him by every conceivable means, and we- cially.by connecting all his great acts closely with religion. The priests have immense power in Russia, which can be exercised directly over a super- stitious and ignorant people : thus they become the most valuable and ne- cessary agents in such a ease as the present war, by appealing to the passions and exciting the fanaticism of the nation. The exercise of thie double influ- ence leaves the.bereditery nobility almost powerless."

—Eluding at Novgorod that various inconveniences, some of an entomological nature, attended taking a passae,we down the Vojga in- any ,of the vessels assembled at the fair, Mr. Scott and some friends bought a new vessel, engaged a crew, 'and, with their Rut-

sian servant Andr€, started as commanders. The following picture of the boatmen gives but an indifferent idea of the living of the Russian peasantry, even when working for foreigners' wages, as in this ease.

"Now, for the first time, we examined with attention the appearance of our crew and a wild, piratical-looking set the majority of them were. Bushy whiskers, beards, and moustaches, almost concealed their grim visages, while the hair, worn long, was cut with mathematical precision in a line with the chin. On their heads were caps of fur or sheep-skin ; a shirt and a pair of trousers of cotton, with the bottoms of the latter confined by coarse bandages, in the place of stockings ; and the feet encased in laptyz, a kind of shoe, made of matting. A large sheep-skin coat, used at night or in cold weather, in addition to these, constituted their entire wardrobe.

"There was no great expenditure of time in preparing their breakfast. A large wooden bowl being dipped into the river, some jet-black bread, broken into pieces, was thrown into the water it contained, and a little salt having been sprinkled over, each in turn helped himself, with a wooden spoon, to a morsel of the contents. Scanty as was this repast, they did not forget to cross themselves, and bow many times, while uttering a short prayer or thanksgiving before commencing the frugal meal, concluding it also with the same ceremony. Their dinner and supper consisted of the like simple fare, and was only occasionally varied by eating the bread and salt dry, and sipping the water alone with their spoons, each adhering to his turn with the same regularity. When we afterwards gave them apples and cucum- bers, of which the lower orders in Russia are all passionately fond, they quite luxuriated, enjoying the treat much more than any alderman ever did the greenest fat of the most corpulent turtle."

A priori it would be pronounced that men living in the way above described were unequal to long-sustained labour ; but Mr. Scott describes his crew as -working hard, sometimes up to their necks in water. How they resist disease, or what is their average longevity, does not appear. The corruption, however, must be gross indeed which undermines the health and rapidly destroys the life of men accustomed to sustain themselves at work on fare such as Mr. Scott describes.

"The excessive corruption of the Russian officials of all grades, not only in the civil but in the military service, is notorious. In travelling through the weary we heard of it on every aide; and it also often became painfully visible in the persons of the poor soldiers, reduced to mere shadows of the serfs who surrounded them, however badly the latter might have fared. We noticed this even at the camp of Kraeno Selo, under the very eye of the Em- peror; and as we receded far from the Imperial ken, it was often saddening to see the moving skeletons, on whom the greatcoats hung like the garment of scarecrows, consisting of paletots suspended on poles. "It will easily be understood that where this corruption is universal it be- comes utterly impossible for one man to eradicate it, however much he may desire to do so. Should he appeal to the general no information can be gained ; for this officer is the chief delinquent. The colonel, too, has had his share, those of lower rank their pickings ; and if the juniors have not yet tasted the sweets of peculation they look forward with hope to the happy moment when they too may help themselves. Thus all are interested in aiding and abetting each other, and in concealing the truth from the higher power.

"it is said that the Emperor has made immense efforts to arrest this out- rageons system ; and that he has even resorted to the plan of calling on the men to state their grievances. In a few instances, individuals bolder or more desperate than their comrades stepped from the ranks and made known their complaints; but it was soon remarked that the wretched crea- tures who dared thus brave their superiors shortly after disappeared.; and suspicion, that keen-eyed investigator of such deeds, whispered mystenously that the latter event was but too closely connected with the former. Such impertinent appeals from the starving victims were, therefore quickly dis- continued; and the vultures that fed daily on the flesh and vitals of the sol- dier-slave lived on and fattened upon their inhuman prey.

"Even the judges are susceptible of the soft influences of bribery, and the man who cannot support his cause, however righteous, with the neces- sary number of rubles must go to the wall."

Mr. Scott paid a longer visit to Sebastopol than is generally per- mitted to foreigners, and enjoyed unusual advantages during his sojourn, being the guest of Colonel Upton, an Englishman in the service of the Czar. His description of the town, fortress, and neighbourhood, is full, but not of so military a kind as that of General Mackenzie, and the interest of a mere description of 'what Sebastopol was has gone by : the world is looking for the results of action. Mr. Scott agrees with the opinion that it could not be taken by a naval force alone.