24 SEPTEMBER 1853, Page 14

BOOKS.

MRS. MACKENZIE'S SIX YEARS IN INDIA..

Vellum journies between Calcutta, Bombay, and the Himalaya, form the topics of these three volumes of letters. The most interesting parts are those which relate to the fair writer's resi- dence at Loodiana and Simla. At the former place, Captain Mac- kenzie's newly-raised regiment of Sikhs and Affghans was sta- tioned; at the latter, the Captain and his wife were present, un- der peculiar circumstances, when Lord Dalhousie, Lord Gough, and Bir Charles Napier, were there, and she had an opportunity of seeing them privately. During her residence at Loodiana, the Multan and the second Sikh wars occurred. The position of her husband, his reputation as a hero of the first Affghan war, the propensity to write and talk gossip or scandal, as well as to freely criticize the conduct of their superiors, which distinguishes Anglo-Indians, brought to her knowledge many strange tales of administrative neglect or formalism, as well as of alleged military incapacity, in superior station ; and these Mrs. Mackenzie has as freely printed-. The popularity of her hus- band among the Natives drew many of the Afghans and others about her, besides introducing her to their wives. The " Zenana" of the title is really a fact, and the book contains many curious anecdotes of Native character as well as pictures of Native life. The " Mission " is also another feature. Both Captain and Mrs. Mackenzie are Presbyterians after a strict Calvinistical and Evan- gelical sect. The Captain had occasional "meetings," not strictly perhaps among his regiment, but for all who liked to attend; both he and his wife were intimate with missionaries and teachers ; at every place they passed through, the " mission " or school was an object of attention. The reports of a zealous advocate are always to be received with a certain degree of mistrust, because the wish is apt to bias the judgment ; and this is more especially the ease in religious matters. Subject to this qualification, the reader who takes an interest in the subject of education in India and of con- version among the Natives may advantageously consult these volumes. During the long period the writer resided at Loodiana, there are many curious instances of how Scriptural truths, or prac- tices deduced from them, present themselves to the less culti- vated minds but more manly characters of the Mahometans beyond the Indus. Here is an example on fasting. "Atte Muhammad being here, asked my husband if he fasted ? He told him that Christians were left to their own discretion in this matter ; that he himself, being far from strong, never fasted, for if he did his thoughts would be fixed on focd and drink instead of on the things of Clod. 'Ah!' said our .stout friend, that is the case with me. All day long I think to myself, could I but have a drink of water !—could I but eat a kawab !—could I but have a chillam ! (pipe).' As for Hasan Khan he took a pipe here yesterday, and said 'he would make it up in the cold weather."

According to the representations of our author and the facts she brings forward, both Mahometanism and Hinduism are on the de- cline, especially the latter. In a certain sense this is probably true, especially among the Hindoos educated at English schools, whether supported by Government, where all religious instruction is forbidden, or in missionary schools, where proselytism is the main object. Disbelief in their own superstitions is, however, a very different thing from conversion to Christianity. The converts whose position argues free will, (for orphan children have hardly a voice,) or who profess from no other motive than conviction, are few in number even throughout a vast range of country ; and what, after all, are the educated few in the large towns compared with the mil- lions in India ? No doubt, Mrs. Mackenzie adduces facts that seem to show indifference to their own creed on the part of some of the humbler classes ; but such goes for little. With the bulk of a nation, religion is rather a matter of habit than of conviction, or even of belief. Many may be found in this country who disbelieve the doctrines of the Church, and admit the broad moral truths an- nounced by any religion, yet it would be exceedingly difficult to convert them to some other creed. The social difficulties in the way of the Hindoo are also very great. Of course, in all countries, a person who quits the religion of his family and friends has to encounter rebuffs. In India, the system of caste, and the usages if not the laws founded upon it, throw much greater obstacles in the way than any arising from convention or conviction. 'So all- influential is caste, that British judges yield to it. Here is a case adduced by Mrs. Mackenzie, in an attack upon Sir Erskine Perry as an opponent of missions. "Balaram Ganpat having been baptized, applied for a writ of habeas corpus, in order to have free access to his wife, who, although grown up, was, since his baptism, forcibly kept from him by her parents, and all com- munication between them prevented. Balaram did not wish to put any con- straint upon her, which would have been contrary to the Apostolic rule, (1st Cor. vii. 15,) but merely to prevent her being forcibly kept from him ; he wished her to make her free choice. Sir E. Perry refused to grant the writ ; giving as a reason, that Balaram had become an out-caste, and that to com- pel his wife to live with him, (which no one ever thought of doing,) would be to make her an out-caste too ; thus evincing a much greater respect for Hindu laws of caste than for the natural and divine law of marriage.'

Whatever conclusion may be formed as to the probability of con- verting the Hindoos to Christianity, there seems little doubt but that old systems of belief are breaking up in the East. As little doubt but that our author's zeal in the cause of missions gave her an object of pursuit, and made her acquainted with many persons and many classes of whom the common resident knows nothing. This is a curious description of the Jewish Synagogue at Bombay. "We were in some doubt whether I should be admitted into the body of • Life in the Mission, the Camp, and the Zenana: or Six Years in India. By Mrs. Colin Mackenzie. In three olume a. Published by Bentley. the synagogue; but Ibrahim came forward to meet us, and led us to the ' chief seats,' placing us between himself and David Bassani°, the richest Jew in Bombay,—a very fine-looking old man, with an eye like a hawk for brilliancy and depth. The synagogue was a long room, with a high divan all round it on which the worshipers sat cross-legged. A chair was pro. Tided for me to put my feet on. Down the middle were two benches, back to back, for the boys of the congregation ; and nearer the door a desk, like a high sideboard, at which the reader stood; opposite to which was a curtained recess, containing the Law. All present wore veils, generally white, with blue striped borders and a single fringe at each corner ; but some of the younger boys had them of spotted net, adorned with little tufts of wool of various colours. I never saw a handsomer set of men ; and this, with their varied dresses of rich colours, and the beauty of the little children, who, gaily dressed and covered with ornaments, were curled up by the side of thefr fathers or sitting on their knees, and ever and anon roving about or eating sweetmeats as bribes to be quiet, rendered it a most picturesque scene. But though this was my first impression, it soon changed to astonishment at be- holding the heartlessness of their worship, which excels anything I have ever seen as a mockery of devotion. Every man had a prayer-book, but the service was gabbled over in a way that rendered it impossible even for Mr. Mitchell, who is a good Hebrew scholar, to follow it. The boys seemed to strive who should read loudest ; and shouted amin, amin, amin,' as if it were very amusing, looking about and laughing the while. The men were talking, and I soon found there would not be the slightest objection to my sketching the scene. Water was brought me, and I took the group on my left hand. No sooner did David Sassanin perceive that I was sketchink him, than he put down his book and spread his hand upon it that I might observe his valuable diamond and ruby rings. Several were called up to the desk in succession to read different parts of the service; which they did in a sort of loud chant, rocking themselves to and fro. Several young boys, after reading, came to kiss the hand and fringes of David Sassanan and a venerable old man who sat next him, who laid their hands on the head of the boys. It was a pretty action on both sides. One or two little girls were there with their books.

"During one part of the service, each man collected the fringes at the four corners of his veil and kissed them repeatedly, touching both eyes with them. Most of them did it in the same perfunctory style in which Romanists generally cross themselves. Then they drew the veil over the right side of the face and uttered a lamentable cry. Then the whole congregation turned towards the West, and, bending, uttered a confession of sin. This was the only part of the service in which there was the slightest appearance of ear- nestness."

It will have been seen from this extract, that Mrs. Mackenzie uses the pencil as well as the pen ; and this likewise brought her into contact with the Natives in various ways. The following little adventure with a sitter at Bombay introduces some judicious remarks on expression, and suggests a great deal on art in general. Johnson misapprehended .Milton's fear lest he had fallen on an age too late for heroic poesy. "Went into the Fort to draw. Both my husband and Ibrdliim have been exerting themselves to get me some Bedouin Arabs as sitters ; but in vain ; they make appointments and do not keep them. "Today, being again disappointed, Ibrahim went out to lay hold of a Be- douin, if it were possible. He found one ; but when it was proposed to him to come, he said, • Why should I go to the house of the English ? God alone knows what may befall me there !' and nothing could induce him to run the risk, until Ezra, the Jew of Basrah, (whom he knew,) and another man, stood security for his safe return. The Arab was a tall, austere, sad-looking man, who never could have been otherwise than in earnest during the whole of his life, and who was, I suppose, too thoroughly convinced of the dangers of sorcery and magic to feel ashamed either of his fears or his precautions, when lie found me alone as his only enemy, he being accompanied by a stout Bedouin attendant, beside Malla Ibrahim. He was not handsome, having plain irregular features and deeply-sunk eyes ; yet there was something al- most awful in the imperturbable gravity and austerity of his gaze. During the whole time I was sketching him, lie kept his eyes fixed on me, without the slightest change of expression. He looked like a man accustomed to hardships from his birth. I hare often reflected on the cause of the diffi- culty I find in taking the likeness of an European, as compared with that of an Oriental. The expression of the one can be caught in an instant, that of the other is not only more varying, but more complicated ; and I suppose it to be from the simplicity of their lives, as compared with ours. Consider the infinite variety of objects which engage our attention and interest; the infinite variety of thoughts and emotions which these give rise to, and you will see that it is impossible for a cultivated European to retain the repose of feature and the unity of expression which is observable in the Oriental. Add to this, our habit of suppressing the outward manifestation of feeling, (for, when an Oriental really feels deeply, he shows it much more freely than we do, except where he is obliged to feign,) and the generally inferior intensity of the passions in Eprope, and you will see why the countenances vary. 'This Arab wals the must perfect specimen I ever saw of a man of few and simple emotions. He could understand hatred for an enemy and love for a friend ; bodily privations he is accustomed to disregard, bodily suffering to endure : probably this comprises the circle of his feelings: how can such a one, accustomed to hardships, to solitude and exertion, be made to understand the thousand-and-one aims and strivings of civilized life ? He is a being of another sphere, and moves among the crowded streets with neither interest nor comprehension for the world and its ways : there was no harsh- ness in his expression, but it was the calm indifference of an ascetic. Are not these men in some respects wiser than we ? gifted with a truer insight than we into the nothingness of the world, though not of the great realities of life ? This man could both write and read; his name was Ali Suklawi, of Rowed; and when C. came and spoke withfrank cordiality to him, both he and his companion seemed more satisfied that we were not Djinns. He wore the long ehogah, or cloak, nearly touching the ground, a many-coloured handkerchief on his head, bound round by a coil of camel's hair by way of a turban ; the ends of the handkerchief hanging down on each side of his face threw his countenance into deep shadow ; he had but scanty beard ; on his feet were sandals ; both hands, feet, and ankles finely shaped, bony and strong, but not more delicate than an European's of spare make."

The anecdotes and gossip about the wars in India contain strange charges, even of cowardice, against officers not named, but the cir- cumstances so particularized that they must be known to numbers in India. What is yet stranger, some of these cowards have been rewarded with honours, while men of merit and service have been neglected: this last, however, is a common complaint at all times. The facts exhibiting false economy, bad arrangements, and neglect even when the arms of the troops are in question, are credible enough—nothing more, indeed, than what might be matched at home in the Ordnance and especially the Admiralty. The vice seems essential to our official system : it originates partly in our

dread of giving discretion to subordinates lest the power should be abused, whilst the head that should direct hap, /so much to do that he can do nothing. Another reason is the want of unity : departments belonging to the same service are too isolated or in- dependent, so that there is no undivided responsibility. The pic- ture of social life and morals among the Anglo-Indians is very in- different, and says as little for the Company's patronage as it does for the Company's servants. These topics, howev:..T, are painful ; and, resting as many of them do upon report or gossip, may be Pas'

sed This picture of female manners in India is a less serious charge, if the evidence is no stronger.

"June 1411i.—We dined at the Governor-General's. Lady Dalhousie is very tall, and extremely fair ; she was very becomingly dressed, in crimson silk, trimmed with magnificent black lace. I found her courteous and friendly in her manner ; and if she is ever otherwise, there is this great excuse for any coldness on her part, that the 'Indian ladies' generally know so little how to behave, that she has several times met with the greatest rudeness from them. When she first arrived, Lord Hardinge gave a ball in her honour, in order to introduce her to the ladies in Calcutta. Instead of the company rising to receive her, as common politeness dictated, every one kept their seats ; not one came forward to receive or welcome her ; and consequently she very naturally declined having them presented to her. Again, at a ball here, a sofa had been retained for her. She arrived late; every seat was oc- cupied. Colonel Grant led her up to the sofa, which was occupied by three 'Simla women,' who never moved : after looking them full in the face, he

said, with a loud voice, think, Lady Dalhousie, we must look for a seat elsewhere.' Again they paraded the whole length of the room, not a lady having the politeness to rise; until at last she found a seat by Mrs. Moun- tain. No wonder if she is not very cordial with such barbarous people."

This is a pleasant picture of Lord Gough at home, mingled with a little camp remark.

"Wednesday, Mayl6th.—We dined at Lord Gough's ; now no longer Com- mander-in-chief, for last night the Gazette arrived announcing Sir C. Napier's arrival on the 7th ; the very day appointed, as Lord Dalhousie re- marked, for returning public thanks for those victories which had rendered his arrival unnecessary ; and, without waiting to communicate with Lord Gough, he had immediately assumed the command. Now, the Duke of Wel- lington having written to Lord Gough that Sir C. Napier would take the command whenever it suited him to resign it, the old chief felt most keenly this supercession ; which, however, was warranted by the terms of the com- mission, and softened by a handsome letter which subsequently arrived from his successor.

"I have not seen so good a host and hostess as Lord and Lady Gough since I left home. They both, aided by Mrs. Grant, their nice unaffected daughter, exert themselves to make it pleasant to their guests. There were about thirty-two at dinner ; everything was handsome without being at all extravagant. As I knew almost all the ladies, it was very pleasant; and there was sweet music from the Hope Grants, Mr. Cracroft, and Mrs.

"Lord Gough remarked how merciful Providence had been to us ; for, if the victory of Chillianwula had been more complete, the Sikhs would never have ventured down so rashly into the open plain, thus exposing themselves to the total ruin they met at Gujrat. 'It was all God's doing,' said he devoutly.

"The old chief added, See how merciful He has been to me personally, in enabling me to win that battle before my successor arrived!'

"Lord Gough is a fine height, slender for his age, with most venerable snow-white hair and moustache, a fresh ruddy complexion, long nose, and most benevolent aspect and smile."

When Mrs. Mackenzie was at Delhi, she made some drawings in the palace of the Great Mogul. The fact was reported, and she was introduced, to the descendant of Timour; who has nothing left him but a pension, and etiquette.

"I made a sketch in the camera of the Dewan-i-Khas, where the peacock throne used to stand. No chair is allowed within the court, but Captain Robertson, who commands the palace-guard, sent me one. Immediately the servants of the palace were in a great fright, and begged me not to sit on it, or they would be turned off. However, they sent a message to the King on the subject ; who said I might have a stool, but not a chair ; and accordingly sent me a very rude little bench. Some of 1.1.M.'s guard marched in ; most of them were boys, almost children. When I had finished, I desired some of the numerous bystanders to look into the camera ; with which they were greatly delighted; and as we were going, a message came from the King, asking me to show it to him. We accordingly turned back, and three or four black slaves came to conduct me into the harem.

"They introduced me to the chief lady, Zinat Mahal Begum, or Orna- ment of the Palace—who struck me as old and ugly ; and then led me to the King's apartment, where the old monarch was smoking his hucia. He is slender and feeble-looking, but with a simple kindly face; though he took no notice of me when I came in, which I suppose is etiquette. His bedstead, with four silver posts, was by him, and a crowd of women about him ; one old woman was rubbing his feet. No one was handsomely dressed. The old King wore a gold skull-cap and a cotton chupkan. I sat down for a mo- ment, and then told them that the camera must be put up out of doors. They led me into the balcony, but that would not do; so they took me to a terrace, where I put it up. The old King seemed pleased, and asked me to draw the Queen ; to which I willingly agreed. She was so long in adorning herself that it was dark soon after I began. They brought out boxes full of jewels ; she put on about five pair of ear-rings, besides necklaces, a nose-ring, with a string of pearls connecting it with the ear, rings for the fingers, besides ornaments for the head. Then she retired to change her dress; some of the women holding up the cotton rezal (wadded quilt), in which her Majesty had been wrapped5 as a screen. She came back dressed in red muslin spotted with gold, and sat down huqa in hand, with two female servants with peacock fans, or rather clubs, behind her. When I looked closer at her, I saw that she could not be old ; but she is very fat, with large though unmeaning eyes, and a sweet mouth. Her hair, like that of all the other women, of whom there must have been about fifty present, was a la Chinoise. Her little son, Mirza Jewan Bakht, came and sat beside her ; but as soon as I offered to sketch him, be was hurried away to change his dress, and returned clad in green velvet and gold, with a sirpesh or aigrette of jewels in his gold cap. "The noise and chattering of the assembled crowd was deafening; but the chief eunuch occasionally brought them to order, and made them sit down. Her Majesty laughed very loud, as loud as she could with her mouth wide Open, at some jest which passed. Not one of all these women were doing anything, or looked as if they ever did do anything, except three who were cracking nutmegs. What a life ! The old King came in, and a man with a

black beard, whom I took for one of his sons, and who remained standing, but the women sat and jested freely with his Majesty. He approved of the

sketches. His little prince is he whom the King wishes to have declared heir-apparent, though he is the youngest of his ten or twelve sons. He has no leas than thirty daughters. "I was exceedingly amused with my visit, and thought how astonished you would all be to hear of my. spending New Year's Day with the King of Delhi—the Great Mogul ! When we got home, Sir Theophilus told me that the King does not give a chair even to the Governor-General. His father gave a chair on one occasion to a Governor-General, and repented of it ever afterwards. The present King, on one occasion, sent for Sir Theophilus, thinking himself near death, and commended the Begum Zinat Mahal to his care; and as she could not shake hands with him in person, he gave him an impression of her hand, which she had made by covering it with tumeric and then pressing it on paper. A day or two after, Sir T. Metcalfe received the following, a précis of palace intelligence, furnished to him, as it is to all British residents at native courts, daily. This is afterwards sent to the Governor-General and the Court of Directors. 'January 1, 1850.—It was reported that a lady and gentleman were employed in sketching views of the Samman Bun. The lady required a chair, and Puran Sing Chobdar was suit by the Commandant Palace Guards to procure one. The King imme- diately sent a stool for the lady. When the lady had finished sketching. Bilal All Khan, eunuch, waited on his Majesty, and spoke in high terms of the lady's talent to the King and the Zinat Mahal Begun'. They requested a visit from the lady ; who took likenesses of the Prince Mirza Jawau Bukht and the Zinat Mahal Begum. The likenesses not having been finished, the King requested the lady to come again and finish them.' * * * * "Monday, January 7(11.—Mr. 11. went with me to the Palace; and as the King and the Begum were both asleep, I sketched the interior of the Devan i Khas. A cannon, a band, and a great noise, soon announced his Majesty's waking. He did not wish to be drawn himself; so I finished the sketch of the Begum. Here is the Palace report, 7th January 1850. 'At 4 p. tn. his Majesty was informed that the lady had come to finish the likeness of the Prince Mks& Jawan Bukht, and the Zinat Mahal Begum. His Majesty di- rected that she should be admitted; and both the pictures were finished. His Majesty presented the lady with an emerald ring and one hundred rupees ; but the lady declined accepting them, and took her departure.'" The letters of which the work consists were written to the family of Mrs. Mackenzie : they are not devoid of the personality and triviality which, however appropriate when designed for pri- vate and familiar perusal, are less fitted for publication ; but this feature is not predominant. The earlier part of the book, descrip- tive of the voyage to India and the journey from Calcutta to Loo- diana, would have borne curtailment, as well as some of the other narratives of mere journeying.