25 APRIL 1868, Page 22

ABYSSINIA.*

HABESH, or Abyssinia, has from old attracted the attention of the civilized world, and since the days of the Ptolemies to our own, no traveller has visited it without bringing back a vast amount of -experiences and impressions, only the smallest part of which could be communicated to others by word or picture. In this strange land every explorer has found something interesting ; whether wandering thither to enrich science and history, or whether messenger for the propagation of some form of Christian faith. A mountain country which in majestic beauty is surpassed by no -other on the known globe, Abyssinia is the Switzerland of Africa ; an alpine world under the tropics, containing within itself the pro- ducts of every clime, from the equator to the poles ; source of a grand network of rivers, the Asrakh, the Takazie, the Berea, and the Juba ; and mines of untold treasures, as yet all but un- known, for the geographer, the botanist, the naturalist, and the painter. It is a country inhabited by races far above those dwell- ing in other parts of the same continent, in mental as well as physical qualities—races possessing a thousand years' history, and to whom Christianity was preached centuries before it came to Germany ; yet who, at the same time, are sunk in the deepest moral sloth and barbarism, and whose chief occupation from time imme- morial has been to commit wholesale murder in wars of exter- mination." So says Dr. Brehm in introducing the Reise nach Abessinien to the notice of the public. Dr. Brehm, well known in Germany as a geographical writer, qualifies himself for the task by mention that he has been an old travelling companion of Herr von Heuglin, having with him "drunk from the waters of the Nile, and -crossed the desert and the sea,"—" Aus des Niles Flub getrunken, die Waste and des Meer durchkreurt."

The glowing preface to Herr von Heuglin's volume of travels is quite in keeping with the work itself. It is a wonderfully attrac- tive book, combining to an extraordinary degree, and such as is very seldom the case in similar publications, depth and fullness of information with vivacity of style, giving everything that can possibly be of interest to the man of science, and yet offering, at the same time, so much of general description, and offering it in such charming and simple dress, that a child may read it with delight. This is not the place, nor have we any room, to enter into the scientific contents of the Reise nach Abessinien which fills the main portion of the volume ; but an extract or two of other matter, more especially interesting at this moment, may not be unacceptable. Here is Herr von Heuglin's description of an interview with King Theodore, at the date of April 4, 1862— second visit, after a lapse of nine years from the first, of the German traveller to His Majesty, our now renowned foe :-

"It was from a long distance, on the slope of a hill, covered with a few clumps of trees, that we beheld the camp of His Majesty the Negus-- Negus Negest za Aethiopia, Theodore II.' The King was sitting in the midst of a circle of priests and officers, while in all directions spread long rows of tents, arranged in groups ; the lanes between were thronged with a many-coloured crowd of soldiers, cattle, horses, and mules. A. large open space separated the ground on which stood the Royal tents and stables from the rest of the camp. It was evening when we arrived • Reim noel, Abessinien, den Gala-Landern, Osi Sudan and Mariam, in den Jahren 1861 and 1862. Von M. Th. von Heuglin. Jena Costerioble. London: Asher and Co 1868.

Abyssinia and us People. London: J. C. Rotten. 1868. and we were about to 'retire, thinking that our audience would not take place till the following morning, when, all at once, our messenger, accompanied by the chief of the Royal artillery, an Indian, came run- ning up breathlessly with the announcement that we were expected in the tent of the Negns. Having gone through the necessary toilette in great harry, we started on onr way, surrounded by torch-bearers, through a long line of life-guards. We found His Majesty in a large tent, divided into two parts by a curtain of light cotton sheets. He was dressed in s simple white red-bordered ' schamma ' or cloak, and reclining on a low divan, with carpets spread out in front ; to his right stood his 'Etschege,' or confessor, and to his left several officers, together with princes of the Royal house. After greeting us in a kindly, though somewhat ceremoni- ous manner, the Negus invited us to be seated on the carpets to his right, and then entered into conversation, by means of an interpreter, in the Antherian dialect. It has been the custom from the oldest times at the Abyssinian Court that the Sovereign should not exchange words directly with strangers, but only through a confidential person, called the Al,' or Mouth of the Negus ;' such visitors must, moreover, be attended by a Baltrabar,' or master of the ceremonies, who looks to their corporeal wants. We began by tasting some delicious mead and honey-brandy, served out in magnificently cut-glass tankards, in doses sufficient to upset a giant ; and then, it being supper-time, our Baltra- bar ' inquired whether we desired meat, which we might have, although it was in the season of the strict Easter fast. On our reply that we preferred to live according to the custom of the country, there appeared instantly before us a capacious • meseb,' or basket, covered with red cloth, and filled with fine wheaten bread, fruit, and pepper sauce ; a similar basket, of like contents, was put before the King's suite. The latter fell to at once, and we imitated their example, Bitting cross-legged around our meseb,' and answering all the while questions put to us by His Majesty. After finishing our frugal repast, which brought tears into the eyes of our poor doctor, the pepper Bence being too strong for him, the conver- sation becamo more and more lively, till at last the Negus threw off all restraint, and began to converse with us directly in Arabic, which he spoke very fluently." "His Majesty had greatly altered since my last visit, in the year 1853. It seemed to me that his face had got darker ; however, the fire of his shrewd and cunning (verschmitzten) eyes was still the same. He showed an excellent memory, reminding me of things I had long forgotten, among others that we had once exchanged the vows of brotherhood,* and that I had told him on that occasion he was the man to save Ethiopia from ruin, and restore it to its ancient glory. He also inquired after my old faithful servant Caspar, expressing sympathy on learning that he had fallen a victim to the infernal climate of Chartum. In the end, I congratulated His Majesty upon the victories he had achieved since I had last been on a visit to his Court, with which the audience came to an end, the King telling us not to forget to ask for anything we might desire, as all that he owned was at the disposition of his friends. We had scarcely returned to our own tent, when a number of Royal servants arrived with presents, the one bringing a fine

• margef,' or woollen cloak embroidered with silk ; a second some beau- tiful crystal goblets, richly gilded; a third, several vessels with mead ; and a fourth a cow's horn, three feet long, filled with honey-brandy. The next morning, and every morning after, a Royal messenger in- quired after our health, in reply to which we despatched Rumha to wish His Majesty' good morning,' after the custom of the country."

" From the earliest dawn of day till late at night the time of the Negns was occupied with the affairs of government, in administrative and judicial, military and religious functions. Everything is referred to him in the last instance, and nothing can be done without him. Scores of petitioners assemble every morning, mostly long before sun- rise, in front of the chain of life-guards surrounding the Royal tent, filling the air with their cries of Abdt-Abet!' Lord, 0 Lord!' ' Dean- hoi ! dean-hoi !"Listen to us!' The. Nevis usually replies from his conch, and, getting up, listens to the demands and complaints of his subjects, distributes presents, and delivers judgments. Then come official reports and messages, and the patrols bring in criminals of all kinds, thieves, robbers, and spies ; the judicial process in every instance is of the shortest, and sentence and execution follow each other in the twinkling of an eye. It is generally allowed that Theodore is just, generous, and liberal, but also terribly severe. No doubt, it is only with a sceptre of iron that he can govern races whose character he thoroughly knows, and as thoroughly despises. In his outward appearance the Negus affects the greatest simplicity ; he is dressed like his subjects, and goes about either barefooted or in sandals. He is a first-rate rider, and splendid shot, and in battle invariably fights at the head of his troops. He esteems Europeans, recognizing to the full their intellectual superiority, their scientific knowledge, and their mechanical discoveries ; but he does not like their grasping after influence in his country, having in- deed had some sad experience in regard to it. It is on this account he has never admitted any European consul into Abyssinia, with the ex- ception of hie friend Plowden. All foreigners travelling in the country are looked upon, for the time being, as his guests, and even their ser- vants are under his own special jurisdiction. I am not able to tell what influence the priests exercise upon King Theodore, but know that they coil round him in thick swarms. Outwardly, the Negus adheres strictly to the forms and ceremonies of the Church, and it is highly probable that he would become unpopular if attempting to stand up against the great cancer of Abyssinia, its priesthood (Pfajj'enthum). It is here, in this edifice of superstition, that lies the root of all the barbarism and wretchedness of the country, and the impossibility of mental and physical progress of races possessing high natural intelligence."

Some interesting particulars are given by Herr von Heuglin about the strength of the army under the command of King Theodore :—

" Having heard the most exaggerated statements [he says] about the number of troops at the disposition of the Negus, I tried frequently to estimate the number. According to my own cal- culations, which, I am certain, are very much below rather than * " Brfiderschaft yetrunken" in the original—a German custom by which two drinkers touch glasses, after which they address each other in the brotherly "thou." above the reality, the Royal camp contained during my visit not less than 150,000 souls. On the march, the army moved along over and filled a space more than three miles broad, and from six to nine miles long; however, the cavalry, riding in narrow file, on account of the miserable pathways, took up much space, and more still the immense herds taken from the Gallas. The nobles in the suite of the King, moreover, have vast trains of attendants, armed and unarmed ; and even a great number of the private soldiers move along with servants and mild-reams—the latter almost always richly blessed with progeny. The crowd of prisoners, priests, and monks has likewise to be taken into account, so that perhaps two-thirds of the whole mass are non-comba- tants, and the actual number of fighting men may not be far above fifty thousand. Strict divisions of arms do not exist, except in the cavalry, the flower of Theodore's troops ; as to artillery, it is repre- sented by nothing but a few pieces of field cannon. The cavalry of the Soane country are looked upon as the prido of the army. Dressed in black mantles of wool, with metal helmets, and riding small but powerful unshod horses, these warriors rush into battle mostly in small divisions, but invariably at a gallop. They are armed chiefly with broad swords and with lances, which they carry negligently on the shoulder. The greater part of the infantry has old-fashioned guns, mostly matchlocks, but a few of them with percussion caps ; as to flint locks, they are in great disfavour in Abyssinia, as they are all but useless, on account of the damp climate and the bad powder in general use. Most of the guns are private property of the King, who entrusts them to responsible officers, who, in their turn, have to find the right people to handle them. Every soldier has to procure his own gunpowder, as well as bullets ; the former he is in the habit of manu- facturing himself, by burning dry wood into charcoal, in a pot hermeti- cally shut by clay ; the produce, mixed with sulphur and saltpetre, is next converted into powder, and then slightly moistened and pounded for several hours in a wooden mortar. The corning takes place very carefully by means of a fine sieve, but it is notwithstanding very bad, as is the quality of the gunpowder in general. Tho bullets are cast of iron, as lead is too expensive, and they are altogether coarse. Notwithstanding this imperfect ammunition, the soldiers shoot extra- ordinarily well, though not over a long range. The cavalry seldom make use of firearms. King Theodore's strategical skill consists mainly, wherever the ground is favourable, in attacking by masses, and in im- petuous cavalry charges. On the march, all the officers of the in- /entry are on horseback, but in battle they invariably fight on foot, at the head of their men."

It is stated by the Berlin correspondent of the Times, under slate of April 21, that Herr von Heuglin possesses " the only map ever drawn of Magdala." The statement is referred to the authority of Dr. Schweinfurth, a German traveller of high repute, intimately acquainted with Abyssinia. The important map, it is said, " dates from 1862, when its author enjoyed the hospitality of the Royal barbarian at the very place which is now the object of such eager expectation. Dr. Schweinfurth, who a few days ago saw this map in the collection of Herr von Heuglin, gives no very promising description of the site. According to him, the rock on which Magdala stands rises perpendicularly to a height of 4,000 feet above the level of the surrounding valleys. There is but one way up, and this is so narrow and steep that in some parts it may he defended by a single man. To starve out the garrison is ren- dered impossible by the extent of the plateau on which the castle is built, including a vast area of arable land and meadows ; to attack it with artillery would be equally impracticable, as no balls can reach it from below, and the nearest heights are some hours distant. Besides, there is not much of a castle to be attacked at all, the mountain of itself being considered an impregnable for- tress. With these advantages on his side, Theodore, Dr. Schwein- furth thinks, will quietly keep to his rock, waiting for the English to be surprised by the rainy season." It must be remembered, however, that the views of a non-military man on the strength of a position are scarcely trustworthy ; and that history abounds with the records of the fall of " impregnable" positions.