25 MARCH 2000, Page 35

Wine testing

From Sir Kenneth Warren Sir: That distinguished sommelier Sir David Mitchell deserves a bar to his ribbon of office for squandering his largesse on the self-confessed soaks whom you gathered at your table for the 'first-ever Spectator Polit- ical Wine Lunch' (Enough to make a hog whimper', 18 March).

Reading your report of the Drink-In' (of which, as you record, accurate recollection faded from your hand), I was reminded of the Australian wine-tasting where one guest asked another, 'Are you staying for the fight?'

Clearly and happily gone are drier days, as when Sir David, then more imperious, requested my guest, the distinguished imbibing journalist Mr George Pitcher, to ease up on a tasting at El Vino when, Twist-like, he asked for more.

Sir Kenneth Warren

Member of the Wine Committee, The Athenaeum, London SW1