25 NOVEMBER 1995, Page 38

Friends of friends

Sir: Should any of your readers visit L'Arni Louis as a result of Nigella Lawson recom- mending it in The Spectator (Restaurant, 18 November), it is important that they get the menu right, which clearly she didn't.

They should not have the chicken, as she did. Chicken is for children. She intends on her next visit to have beef. Do not do that either. There is better beef in London than could ever be eaten in Paris. What you should have is the fabulous lamb. No lamb eaten in this country could have prepared you for the delight which this dish represents.

With this we find the house Fleurie is an excellent accompaniment. Incidentally, how she got through her vast meal sharing half a bottle of Sancerre God knows.

If you are daunted by the huge portions, you can always share one starter between two. This is particularly the case with the sensational foie gras.

Tony Rudd 15 Kensington Square, London W8