25 NOVEMBER 2006, Page 87

Q. I have been visiting a number of leading restaurants

recently and find that waiters increasingly have the annoying habit of saying ‘enjoy’ — or even worse ‘enjoy your meal’, as they deposit a plate of the chef’s efforts at the table. Constant interference is another irritation. On one occasion different members of staff intruded on my delicate tête-à-tête more than six times during the course of dinner — all to enquire if ‘everything was all right’ with the food. I shall despair if I have to continue to endure these demeaning directives and interruptions, as this is all having a serious affect on my digestion and my general enjoyment of eating ‘out’. I believe that I am perfectly capable of ascertaining for myself if I can enjoy and appreciate food. I would not hesitate in making my feelings very clear to these people if I was on my own — but in company it is a different matter. It is not as though these establishments, with their pretensions of serving fine cuisine in a sophisticated atmosphere, are even cheap. I simply do not want to cause embarrassment to my guests or hosts and gain a reputation as a complainer. Mary, what can be done?

P.D., Cirencester, Glos A. Whether you are hosting the party or not, you can assume that no one else will welcome either the directive to enjoy or the intrusions, so preempt the nuisance by confiding in the maitre d’ that your party will be discussing some rather complex matters and that you will let the waiters know if you are not entirely satisfied.