26 AUGUST 1949, Page 15

Ste,—To janus's welcome note on this needless risk to young

mountaineers in the Alps owing to lack of francs to meet the cost of guides, may I, as an old climber, add two other causes of accidents ? In my day, a week was nearly always necessary for getting into training: less than 24 hours is all that can now be afforded, and within 48 hours men go to 13,000 feet. Secondly, one always knew the men with whom one climbed. On a recent tragic accident the three on the rope were little more than strangers to one another. I would urge most strongly that when ice and snow climbs are to be made a guide should be engaged to give advice on the route to be taken by any party before it starts without professional assistance. Perhaps for a particular reason you will permit me to sign myself