26 DECEMBER 1925, Page 8

RUSSIA TO-DAY

IThe favourable impressions which the writer of this article brought away from Moscow will probably surprise most people. The writer's good faith, however, cannot be questioned. If ho is wrong he can be contradicted. His recommendation that Great Britain should not miss trading opportunities in Russia deserves careful consideration. We know all the objections and difficulties, but here is a business man telling his fellow business men that " big opportunities are being missed."] T AM convinced as the result of a recent visit to Moscow that some relaxation in the passport visa restrictions would be advantageous to us and to Russia. We are misinformed about the conditions now prevailing, and it is important that the reports of our Labour deputations should be supplemented by others likely to command wider acceptance. If some of our leading commercial, industrial and financial men were enabled to go to Moscow and other parts of Russia, I should be surprised if they did not return with other views than those now generally entertained about the desirability of closer business relations between the two countries.

I hold no brief for the Soviet Administration, but I feel bound to say that the state of Moscow is very credit- able to the authorities. Perfect order prevails, and visitors need not fear disturbances or anticipate other than most courteous treatment. The people in the main are well clad, and appear to be well fed and contented. I saw no such misery and degradation as was sadly evident in St. Petersburg during a visit in 1910, and should say that the masses at least have reason to rejoice over the improvement in their lot. I am afraid, however, that the former middle and upper-class people are still suffering, but was told there has recently been more readiness to recognize their ability to render useful service to the community.

I went to Moscow on a business mission, and can only record the observations any visitor could make. I do not pretend to any insight into, or special knowledge of, the social and economic conditions, nor did I seek for such information in official or other quarters. As far as I could judge the country between Riga and Moscow, and thence to Warsaw, is being well cultivated. There were indications that a good harvest had been reaped, and excellent progress made in ploughing for the next crops. Certainly the work could not have been done if the peasants were as disgruntled as we have been led to suppose.

Great activity now characterizes Moscow. There are well over two and a half million inhabitants and the main streets are very busy. There is an excellent electric tramway service, and the cars are usually crowded, and sometimes fearfully overcrowded, but the traffic is very efficiently handled. A new service of motor-buses (made in England) is well patronized, and there are plenty of taxis and some motors in the streets. The old " drosh- kies " are in a rather bad way, for their usefulness is declining on the advent of better transit facilities.

The boulevard that encircles the city is in fairly good condition, and the sandpits provided for children at frequent intervals are very popular. The seats are well occupied by women and children in the daytime, and I saw few loafers or beggars. In the evenings there was a steady flow of promenaders, some of whom showed a friendly interest in the foreigner, and indeed the atmo- sphere was such that I felt far more at ease in passing through at night than I have been under similar con- ditions in some other Continental boulevards.

The streets and the boulevards are well lighted, the latest arc lamps being used, and a start has been made with macadam to replace the irregular cobble-stones which are so distressing for pedestrians. The city is being rehabilitated, and the outlay during the past six months on labour and material must have been enormous; The fine squares and principal buildings appear to great advantage, as uniform colour schemes have been adopted.! The houses and other buildings are painted throughout in quiet shades which contrast pleasantly with the more vivid colours used in decorating the churches.; As far as could be seen the occupants of the larger houses' are comfortably billettcd, but probably the former owners might not be pleased if they could sec the internal] condition of their old homes.

There are about 200 churches in Moscow, and although some are closed and a few converted into schools, there would seem to be plenty left for their legitimate use. On the third Sunday in September I went to the famous Church of the Redeemer, and then to a later service at' a beautiful church some distance away, where I was told the services are maintained on the old lines. I found there some hundreds of devout worshippers, and those who know the conditions will understand the appeal such a service makes to all who appreciate ornate ritual, grand music, and a magnificently decorated church. There was no sermon, and I was told this is now the only restriction imposed by the authorities upon the clergy. There were considerably more men than women wor- shippers. I made a point of attending a different church at about 9 o'clock each morning, and always found a, fair number of people there.

The Chapel of the Iberian Virgin by the entrance to the Red Square, which is flanked by the Kremlin, is still highly revered, and whenever I passed by people were waiting their turn to enter ; another fairly large church near by was well filled when I looked in about noon. I do not know anything about the Church revenues, but the gorgeous vestments and wonderfully decorated churches cannot have been interfered with to any considerable extent. I saw sufficient evidence of liberty in public worship to satisfy me that the allegations of religious persecution should not be too readily accepted now, however justified in the past. I was told, however, that no trade union member is allowed, on pain of expulsion,' to enter a church, and that penalty must be an effective deterrent to all but the most devout. Certainly there is, still much outward respect for religion, and I noticed that it was the general practice to uncover or make the Sign, of the Cross in passing by a church or shrine.

People seem to have money to spend freely enough, the shops are crowded and long queues patiently waiting to enter are to be seen in the shopping centres. The Great Theatre, which seats 4,000, was full each night I was there, and is said to be crowded for every ballet or opera per- formance. I found full houses in three other theatres, and the neighbouring cafés were packed at and after midnight. The ballet and opera at the Great Theatre are said to be quite up to their old standard—certainly it would be difficult to think otherwise. The audiences, mainly of working class appearance, are quietly appre- ciative, and are admitted on easy terms. A box for six, by the way, costs about two pounds, and amphitheatre stalls eight shillings each.

Space forbids the recital of other indications of progress and resumption of normal activities in a great city. It seems to me that big business opportunities are being missed. Our manufacturers and others interested should take steps to ascertain all the relevant facts before de- ciding that it is inadvisable to give extended credit. Every contract entered into by the Soviet Authorities during the last five years appears to have been fulfilled. At least I have not heard of any cases of default. I am satisfied that there is a genuine desire to purchase here rather than from our Continental competitors.

T. H. HILKEN.