SIMON HOGGART
/n this mini-bar we have four wines which ought to be hugely popular, but aren't. Their regions are paying the price for past misjudgments and greed. Thanks to Liebfraumilch — yuck — few
of us now buy German wine, yet much of it is terrific, an old world wine that's better value than the new world equivalent.
Like Beaujolais, which merchants can hardly give away. This must be the result of the Beaujolais Nouveau hoop-la which taught people that the luscious Gamay grape tasted of sour brake fluid. Portugal is forever tied to Mateus Rosé, standby of hopeful but impoverished students. Rosé itself is beyond unfashionable, yet this one is superb. I hope our offer will reintroduce readers to the delights of all these wines.
One problem with Germany is the impossible names. The Kestener PaulinsHofbErger, Kabinett Halbtrocken 2001(') is not a Prussian officer with duelling scars, but a not quite bone-dry Riesling from the Mosel. It is fresh and lemony, with a subtle, rounded floral bouquet, and has
that slightly oily taste of the best Rieslings. It's reduced by £1 to £9.75 and worth every penny. The Clairet d'Angludet 2001(2) is made from Cabernet Sauvignon, but the skins are in contact with the juice for only a few days. The result is thick with flavour, yet utterly crisp and refreshing. For those who believe pink wine is alcoholic sherbet dabs, this will be a revelation. £1 off brings it down to £6.25.
The Casa d'Alorna, select vintage, 2000(3) is from the Ribatejo region of Portugal, made to the highest standards from a local grape. At a tasting we raved about how it was soft and velvety and rich and fruity, with a very long finish. Reduced to £6.75.
Finally, the Fleurie, Dme. du Point du Jour, 2001(4) is here to remind us all what a wonderful complex wine Beaujolais can be. This has the cc/it heady flavour, light, yet with the magical. sun-sodden perfume. Please try it and rediscover a great wine — a bargain, too, with a £1.45 discount.
Delivery, as ever, is free, and there is a sample case, further reduced.
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